CHAPTER V. SOUTH-EAST OF SPAIN, BARCELONA, ETC. Gibraltar-Sir David Wilkie-Smuggling-Malaga--Old Mountain— Almeria-Carthagena-The Old Guide-Pobre España-Alicante -Valencia-Barcelona-Custom House-Burning and DancingTarragona-Old Rancio-Catalonia-Marseilles-Saguntum. ON visiting the wine districts of Spain and Portugal, in 1844, I returned home from Xerez by Seville, Madrid, Vittoria, Irun, Bayonne, and Bordeaux— the mail being escorted out of Madrid by three dragoons, to Buitragro, not far from Vittoria, where Wellington gained one of his many victories. During my former visit, in 1841, I steamed from Cadiz to Gibraltar, where I had to remain during two days on that wonderful rock; and it is scarcely less wonderful to think that we hold a portion of the land of the Spaniards. While at the signal station, the very highest point, looking through the old sergeant's glass at the houses and hills in Africa, we were surprised to see the English steamer, which had left on her way home two hours previously, turning round and coming back to the rock. We soon learned that this was caused by the death of Sir David Wilkie, on his return from Egypt. The governor was applied to, to allow his body to be landed and buried; but Gibraltar being a fortification, and ships from Alexandria being then under quarantine, permission could not be granted; and the body therefore was consigned to the deep, as represented in Turner's well-known painting. Almost the sole trade of Gibraltar is smuggling, a business very efficiently protected by our ships and the guns of the fort, which are brought to bear upon any Spanish guarda costa that ventures within three miles of them. At that time, there was great excitement and correspondence relative to a Spanish cruiser, which, after having chased a smuggler, overtook her within the prescribed three miles, and carried her off to Carthagena; but no sooner was this known, than an English brig-of-war was despatched, with orders to enter Carthagena, and to bring the smuggler back to her protectors. The chagrin of the people of Carthagena may be imagined on seeing this done; nor can we wonder that Spanish pride was roused against those daring Ingleses. Leaving Gibraltar at night, accompanied by half a dozen handsome smuggling boats, designed for various parts of the coast, we reached Malaga the next morning at six; and I had the pleasure of being useful to the well-known blind traveller, Lieutenant Holman, who was then travelling through Spain that he might describe its beauties. It was evident that all his descriptions were founded upon answers to his numerous questions. It is impossible to overrate the beauty of the position of Malaga, surrounded by luxuriant hills, and the snow-covered Sierra Nevada rising to the skies, with ranges of mountains extending as far as the eye can reach. But, revenons à nos moutons, Malaga wines. As usual, I introduced myself to the principal winemerchants, and invariably met with a courteous reception. I was shown the cellars of two or three, but would have been sorry to have drunk a pint of any wine I tasted there; they were all heavy, coarse, and ill-made. The only tolerable quality was that which was destined for transmission to Cadiz, to be there mixed with the thin, so-called, sherries. 6 I saw some of the dark old mountain,' which used to be well known as a forenoon or liqueur wine; but may be said to be now entirely forgotten. I remember well, when a boy, hearing the word mountain in constant use, and on reference to old shipping lists I see it regularly quoted. I see one dated 1805, with the following quotations, per butt, free on board at Malaga, 1803, 157. 10s. ; 1802, 167. 5s.; 1801, 177. 5s. ; 1800, 177. 15s.; 1799, 187. 10s.; 1798, 207. 5s.; 1797, 217.; 1796, 217. 15s.; 1795, 221. 10s.; 1794, 237. 10s.; 1793, 247. 10s. One cannot help remarking, and being surprised by the slight difference in the prices in former years. It is seen here to be only about a pound per annum, which seems unaccountable with twelve months' interest, and loss from leakage and evaporation. ALMERIA-CARTHAGENA. 239 The very circumstance of the grapes grown here being so excellent, is a proof that, if the making of wine were found as profitable as the sale of grapes, very fine wine would be produced. I do not mean, because the grapes are so large and fine-for it is a fact that large, fine-eating grapes invariably produce inferior wine-but it is because the soil, the heat, and the aspect of the various hills, are so admirably adapted for wine, that the result might be looked upon as certain. At the table d'hôte, both the white and red kinds were new, and coarse. It The next day, I passed in Almeria, famous for its grapes, but I could not hear of a wine-merchant. is a small miserable place; but it is said that when the Moors were driven out of Spain by the Spaniards, many fled hither on their way to Africa, and, not being able to get away, were allowed to remain. I can well believe this, for the inhabitants are wildlooking beings, with black sparkling eyes, very little clothing, and are in the habit of sitting cross-legged on the ground. Few of the windows are glazed, and the roofs are flat, as in Eastern countries. From Almeria we steamed-as usual, during the night-to Carthagena. There is this great comfort in the Mediterranean that one is not troubled about the tide 'serving;' the ebb and flow being almost imperceptible. All that can be seen of Carthagena, until you are alongside the houses, are forts in the rocks on each side of a narrow entrance, through which you pass |
