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Frontispiece
To face page 128

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Registered Cellular Wine Bins; Rest for each Bottle, No. 2.

Movable Iron Bin, with Lock, No. 3.

Wooden Packing-Cases, suited also for Bins

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WINE,

THE VINE, AND THE CELLAR.

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CHAPTER I.

GENERAL REMARKS.

Wine Duties in 1822-Manner of Paying-East Vault Exchange-
Tasting-Dock Company's Responsibility-Wines in Bond-Wine
Trade a bad Trade-Young Gentlemen as Cellarmen-Agents in the
Hunting-Field-Bribery-Treatment of Wines-Ignorance existing
-South African-Elbe Sherry-Ebro Port-Adulterations-Lord
Palmerston-Greek and Roman Wines-Constituents of good Wine
-Mr. Ballantyne's Letter-Christopher Smith in 1750-Tavern-
drinking-White Port-Teneriffe-Introduction of Sherry-Claret
of first Growth, viá Boulogne-Claret in Scotland-Wine-drinking
in the Hebrides-Bad Cellars in modern Houses-Wine Merchants'
Clerks-Tasting in the open Air-'Sinful' Prices-Wine like Horse-
dealing-Drunkenness formerly not disgraceful-Tavern Bill in 1728
-Recollections of 1773—Wine for Twenty in 1863-Few Drunken
People now-A Bishop's Claret-The Royal Sailor-The First
Gentleman in Europe-Duke of York's Aide-de-Camp-Jockey of
Norfolk-Pepys's Memoirs-Poulett Thomson-Author's Obstinacy
-Wine Committee-Duty reduced--Wine as a general Beverage—
Consumption since 1855-Alcoholic Test-Song from Punch-Eva-
sion of Alcoholic Rate-The Wine Association-Uniform Rate of 1/0
-Effects of Wine Disease-Prices in Montpelier-Consumption in
Paris, in Mayence, and in London-Table of Rates of Duty since
1671-Statistical Tables-Wine and the Poets.

HE following details respecting excise and customs

TH

men, dock coopers, duty-paying, and similar
matters, forty years ago, possess little value in them-

B

selves; but those who remember them are rapidly passing away, and it may be interesting to others to know how the wine trade was carried on in times gone by.

On the 14th of May, 1822, began my acquaintance with the wine duties, and the manner of paying them, which was very different from the present mode.

If a cask or case was to be taken out of bond, it was necessary, first, to write what was called a Require-note, which gave full particulars of the ship, entry, mark, number, gauge, &c., of the cask, and stated that you Required to pay duty. This was taken to the Excise Office at the dock-gate, and if found correct was initialled. Furnished with this authority another paper was necessary, called the warrant, besides two more, with the gallons in figures.

All these were for the Excise, whose office was on Tower Hill; and as there was only one collector through whom all had to pass, it may be imagined how tired we poor clerks often were of waiting our

turn.

For the Customs one paper written in full, with another in figures, was demanded; but on these were placed the letters C. A., which being interpreted, were found to denote cum aliis,' with others; proving the classical knowledge of Her Majesty's Commissioners of Customs, and that they were always wanting something more. Few, if any, merchants attempted to pass their entries with the Customs

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