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CHAPTER IX.
SOUTH OF FRANCE-MARSEILLES, ETC.
Marseilles-St. George-M. Gordon-Languedoc-Châteauneuf du
Pape-Nismes-Banyuls-Letter from Montpellier, 1805-List of
Prices-Cette-Undeserved bad Character-False Brands-Lunel
and Frontignan-The Hérault-Beziers-Narbonne-Rivesaltes-
Perpignan-Vintage-No Singing or Dancing-Port Vendres-
Pyrenees-Magnificent Views-Elne Wine Shop-Collioure-A
Bottle threescore Years old-Stone Rooms with 8,000 Gallons-
Skins for Cattle--Origin of Masdeu-From Port Vendres to
Bordeaux
PAGE 354
CHAPTER X.
PARIS, BERCY.
Great Dépôt for Wines-Large Cellars at Bercy-Entrepôt des Vins
-Octroi and Charges in Paris-Counting-houses at Bercy-Water
-Restaurants-Consumption of Wine in Paris and in England—
Establishment of M. Nicolas-Extension of Octroi-Liberté et
Égalité'—The 'Marseillaise '—'Ordre Publique'-Wine Adulte-
rations severely punished
CHAPTER XI.
RHINE AND MOSELLE.
371
Im Kühlen Keller-Rheingau Vineyards-The Press-White and Red
Wines-Palatinate-Racking-Prices-Rüdesheim, Johannisberg,
&c.-Schloss Johannisberg-Cabinet Wines-Steinberg - Rüdes-
heimer Geisenheimer Rothenberg - Hochheimer — Assmanns-
hausen-Rheinhessen-The Pfalz-Rhenish Bavaria-Bocksbeutel
-Moselle-Trêves-The Saar-Sparkling Moselle-Preparation—
Information as to Buying-Old Brown Hock-Gauges in Nassau,
Hesse, Frankfort-Das Gläschen-Consumption, Quantity, and
Percentage, from 1831 to 1863 380
CHAPTER XII.
MARSALA.
Marsala-Soil similar to Xerez-Albariza-Barro-Argil-Excellent
Red Wines-Mostly sent to America-Consumption fallen off-
Sometimes called Bronte-Great care of the Vines-Strong Wine
wanted-Unsaleable if imported Light-Remarks about Gauges
--Wine production of Sicily-Shipments to Cette and Marseilles-
Consumption and Percentage from 1831 to 1863
403
Its Wines disappointing-Climate and Soil offer high Expectations
-Vino d'Asti-Montepulciano-Extracts from 'Roba di Roma' and
from a French Wine Journal-Progress in Wine-making. PAGE 409
CHAPTER XIV.
GREECE.
Bacchus, the God of Wine-Pan-His conquests by Wine-Homer's
Description of a celebrated Wine-Its Potency-Polyphemus-
Ulysses-The Islands of the Archipelago-Cyprus-Commanderi
-Malmsey-Santorin-Smyrna-Tenedos-Currants
CHAPTER XV.
HUNGARY.
423
Lines on the Vintage-Great Varieties-'Imperial' Tokay-Erro-
neous Ideas-Peculiar Properties-Natural Phosphor
CHAPTER XVI.
429
CRIMEA.
Prince Woronzow's Vineyards-Massandra- Aïdanil-Aloupka-
Fine, pure Wines-Memorandum of Tasting.
CHAPTER XVII.
MADEIRA.
436
Madeira Thirty Years ago-Now greatly Changed - Importation
Trifling-Replaced by Sherry-Imitations from all Quarters-High
Prices-Replanting necessary-Consumption and Percentage from
1831 to 1862
438
CHAPTER XVIII.
TENERIFFE, VIDONIA, CANARY SACK.
Teneriffe, one of the five Canary Islands-Vidonia, from the Vidogne
Grape-Teneriffe much used Forty Years ago - Canary Sack-
Not denoting Dryness-Vine Disease
449
CHAPTER XIX.
CAPE-SOUTH AFRICAN.
Bounties on Cape-Complaints of Cape Merchants-Huskisson—
Poulett Thomson-South African-Fatal Day for Cape-Unfair
Competition-Constantia-Colonial Interests overpower the Go-
vernment-Indulgence granted to Cape-Frauds with Drawback
claimed-Consumption and Percentage from 1831 to 1863. page 452
CHAPTER XX.
AUSTRALIA.
Its Wine generally Bad-Vines sent to Adelaide-Better to apply
her Capital and Labour to her natural Productions-Vineyards at
Beechworth and Albury-Newspaper Extracts
457
CHAPTER XXI.
AMERICA CALIFORNIA.
Longfellow's Song in praise of Catawba-Different Opinion-Hotel
Charges before the time of Greenbacks-Cock-tail-Brandy Smash
-Carolina-Scuppernong-California-Good Wines-Angelico-
Aliso-Large Production-German Vine-Growers
467
CHAPTER XXII.
PERU.
Letter from a Traveller in Peru-Peruvian Sherry-Doubtful if made
in Peru
474
CHAPTER XXIII.
CELLARS-DECANTING-FININGS-BOTTLES-BOTTLING.
Bad Cellars in Modern Houses-Iron and moveable Bins-Architects
ignorant about Cellars-Mr. Farrow's decanting Machines-All
Wines should be decanted—Articles required in the Cellar-How
to carry a Bottle-Fining-Corks-Bottling-Best to employ a
Wine-cooper-Bottles-Uniform Size impracticable. 477
No Personal Experience-Letter from a Physician-Average Annual
Consumption of Wine in Mayence-Gout almost unknown there—
Produced by too much Azote-Bi-carbonate of Potash-Letter
from Bordeaux-Letters from a Gentleman in London, and from a
Country Gentleman-Haggis-Hotch-potch .
PAGE 495
APPENDIX.
I. Letter of Mr. Ballantyne in 1807
II. Letter of the Author to The Times'
503
509
Wrought-Iron Wine Bin, No. 1.
PAGE
Frontispiece To face page 128
Registered Cellular Wine Bins; Rest for each Bottle, No. 2.
Movable Iron Bin, with Lock, No. 3.
Wooden Packing-Cases, suited also for Bins