Marcobrunner cabinet, 1857, 5 guineas; Domdechaney hock, 6 guineas; port 1847,. 4 guineas; port 1844, 4 to 5 guineas; port 1840, 6 guineas; port 1834, Kopkis Roriz, a giant wine, 11 guineas; Thompson and Croft's 1834 port, 8 guineas; port 1827, 7 guineas; an extraordinary port, 1821, 8 guineas; port 1820, 107.; imperial sherry, 1839, 4 guineas; Domecq's gold sherry, 6 guineas; Beigbieder's golden sherry, bottled in 1821, 7 guineas; East Indian sherry, 6 guineas; Drury's Madeira, 6 guineas; Clicquot's champagne, 1857, 4l. 10s.; rosé-champagne, 4 guineas, &c. The total amount of the sale exceeded 6,700l.

A taste for painting, music, scenery, &c., may be improved by study and application, till a degree of knowledge and discrimination is acquired that was previously believed to be impracticable, while on the other hand, men may have many advantages, but, by neglecting to avail themselves of them, remain in ignorance. Similar reasoning applies to the palate and material taste, for unless the sensations caused by certain kinds of wine are studied and compared with those which others produce, the power of forming opinions, and of acquiring skill founded on experience, cannot be gained. This is much more difficult than is generally imagined, and some persons seem as incapable of becoming good judges of wine, as others of appreciating music; but much may be done by thought, by making notes, with the reasons for forming opinions, by renewed tasting and the comparison of impressions of different times. Some English wine merchants have pure refined tastes; but as port, sherry and other kinds with between thirty and forty per cent. of proof spirit,

CULTIVATION OF TASTE.

49

still constitute upwards of seventy per cent. of the total consumption, it cannot be fairly supposed that men who have little else in their mouths all day, can have palates capable of appreciating the delicacy and bouquet which, with very little reference to 'body,' constitute the great value and high cost of the most noted growths.

For my own part, if it were a cask to be selected for my own drinking, and not for selling, I would generally prefer having it chosen by a lady, than by many of the oldest and most experienced Mark Lane, Mincing Lane, Tower Street, and Crutched Friars men, because the lady has not had the delicacy of her palate spoiled by tasting spirits and all kinds of coarse, strong, made-up wines.

In naming those four streets, all contiguous to each other, I am including no small number of wine merchants, for I see that there are in

Almost everywhere abroad, a small shallow, silver cup, raised in the centre, is used in tasting; and altho' awkward for those unaccustomed to it, it possesses the advantage of showing the true colour and the body much better than by means of a glass.

E

But, although it may appear a strange admission by an old wine dealer, I am not afraid to say that there is a very ridiculous amount of fuss made and nonsense talked about wine. I have seen and tasted and drunk as much of it, and have, probably, as good a taste as the generality of men ; but I know by long experience, that I often form a very erroneous opinion, and like a wine one day, and dislike it the next : and every other wine merchant might make a similar confession.

If such is the case with men whose income depends mainly on their palate, how much more must it be with those who are only amateurs, and whose tastes, however refined and correct, have almost always been habituated to one description of each class, and generally disapprove of every other. I forget whether Xantippe succeeded in putting Socrates out of temper, but if that excellent man ever sat at the head of his table and gave his guests from his choicest old bins-let us suppose a 20 port, or a '25 claret, --and saw them first take an orange or ginger, and then gulp the precious liquid down as if it were Barclay's stout, if that did not raise his ire, I know not what on earth could. But this is what we see every day, unless there has previously been some long story or history or grand name of a Château given.

The only way to appreciate wine is when a few men, who understand and enjoy it, meet together, feeling free to luxuriate in the delight imparted, not

WANT OF APPRECIATION.

51

alone to the palate, but even still more to that received from the bouquet.

This latter is essential to the due enjoyment of the finest qualities, but the 'nose' must be ignored in formal parties. In wine loaded with brandy or colour, its natural delicacy is sadly injured, and scarcely any, of any kind, comes to this country with out more or less of one or other, or both. a good third growth of fair quality, with agreeable company, gives far more pleasure than even a true first class, or what is called a curiosity,' in heavy society.

After all,

If wine merchants could feel sure that those to whom they send wine were capable of appreciating it, and would do it justice, the trade would be comparatively easy; but the reverse is generally the case. With sherry it does not much matter whether it is sent to-day and drunk to-morrow; neither does it greatly affect champagne, unless of fine old kinds; but every dealer must feel regret, when making his invoice for choice old port, claret, burgundy, &c. at a high price, to be told that it is for immediate use.'

Another serious injury arises from the (so-called) wine-cellars in almost every modern house. Were it not a known fact, it would scarcely be believed possible that such little poking holes should be found, even in large mansions ; displaying, too, such thoughtlessness and ignorance, that they are often placed next

the kitchen fire, or out of doors, exposed to constant change of temperature. In another chapter I treat of this point, so essential to the good keeping of wine.

I was much struck lately by the remark of a gentleman worth, probably, 10,000l. a year, very generous and liberal. I had been recommending some remarkably fine hock, which I had met with in Germany, at six guineas a dozen, and he wrote in reply that he considered it'sinful' to expend 10/6 on a bottle of any wine. I entirely agree with him ; yet there are many who are ready to pay any sum to possess certain kinds in great repute, and produced in such limited quantities that the possessors may demand almost any price. Wine, in this respect, is somewhat similar to the traffic in horses. A horse, handsome and good enough for anyone, may be bought for 701.; while another, with some particular beauty, will fetch 100l. or 2007.

I was told lately of some port, stated, and apparently correctly, to be of the vintage 1817, part of which was sold at fifteen guineas per dozen-the price demanded. A wine merchant, not given to be carried away by names or years, mentioned to me that he had had an opportunity of tasting it, and that he would not give sixpence a bottle for it. Luckily for the owner, 1817 is a long time ago, for 1816, 1817, 1818, and 1819, were all wretched vintages-so bad, that 1820 owes much of its éclat to the circumstance of four previous failures.