called claret, and the white sherry. Sherry was then generally, like other white wines, kept in a state of fermentation by sweet malaga, meade, cider, or honey. Pale wine was but just coming home (about 1768) on the lees, with which was mixed Spanish or small French wine; and a similar mixture was made of the various sorts of white wines. The dexterity of the wine cooper then was shown in making the most palatable at the lowest prices; but now (referring to 1807, the date of his letter) all wine comes in so clean and so perfect that the skill of the wine cooper of former days is not required. With white port, being subject to ferment in summer and grow foul in winter, we mixed a little Teneriffe, which improved its flavour, and prevented any further fermentation.

I think three years had elapsed before I had seen a butt of sherry; but when I did, I recommended it in preference to white port. A man of quality recommended to me Mr. Duff, our late consul at Cadiz, to whom I sent orders from several friends, and white port soon became despised, although it had been in such esteem that, even as late as 1782, I got orders in one week for eighty pipes. Now it is forgotten, and sherry has prevailed.

What is now considered true sherry, from Xerez, was not known in England previous to the shipments of Mr. Duff, and it is very clear that he did not ship any before 1760; therefore the speculations about 'sherris sack' having been our sherry must be incorrect. I believe the Spanish wines alluded to in olden times were from Malaga and the Mediterranean coast; with which there was a great trade, when Cadiz or Xerez were scarcely known to shippers. Mr. Ballantyne adds:

I believe it was not before the year 1750 that the first

OLD SHIPMENTS FROM BORDEAUX.

39

growth claret, properly prepared and of proper age, came to England from Boulogne (!) to Mr. Stewart of York Buildings, and Mr. Allan of Mark Lane; but of late years the Forsters, the Johnstons, and two or more houses at Bordeaux, can ship it in the same excellent condition. as formerly from Boulogne.

For further information on this point, I refer to my remarks about claret.

It is

Although not easy to comprehend, it is a fact that the shipments of wines from Bordeaux and Rochelle were enormous, even so early as the fourteenth century, when it appears that upwards of two hundred vessels were loaded at Bordeaux for England. recorded that in the reign of Edward VI. in 1546, 'for wines, we have continually from France and Spain, as also out of Almaine and out of Candia, great quantity of the best that grow in those parts.' In Scotland it was often so abundant that, upon the arrival of ships at Leith from Bordeaux, casks were placed on wheelbarrows, and the 'claret' sold in the streets in stoups. Scott and others, describing the Scotch in old times, often allude to the 'stoup of claret,' which was probably the usual way of buying and also of drinking it: but it could not have been a' vin de Bordeaux' from the Médoc; for this, as it is now sent, will not bear such rough usage without becoming soon undrinkable. Being so common and plentiful, we may be sure that it was new, strong, and cheap, and rarely bottled.

We can understand the gentry, the inhabitants of the towns and the Lowlands, drinking wine, but can

scarcely imagine that it would be necessary for the Scotch Privy Council in the beginning of the seventeenth century to pass Acts to prevent the excess of drinking of wines in the Isles' (the Hebrides, or mainland adjacent).

These were, then, in a state of greater poverty than any other parts of Scotland, and what they drank as claret must have been grown up the river, above Bordeaux, probably in the Clairette district. In 1609 the introduction of wine into the Isles from the mainland was forbidden. In 1616 its use was forbidden. In 1622, finding that a great quantity of wines is yearly carried to the Isles, with the insatiable desire whereof the inhabitants are so far possessed that, when there arrives any ship or other vessel there, they spend both days and nights in their excess of drinking, and seldom do they leave their drinking so long as there is any of the wine remaining,' its sale by any person whatever was finally prohibited.

Here is an ordinance which was passed by the Privy Council in the 1616:

year

Act aganis the Drinking of Wynes in the Yllis.

Apud Edinburgh xxvj of Julij 1616. Forsamekle as the grite and extraordinar excesse in drinking of wyne commonlie vsit amangis the commonis and tennentis of the Yllis is not onlie ane occasioun of the beastlie and barbarous cruelteis and inhumaniteis that fallis oute amangis thame to the offens and displesour of God and contempt of law and justice bot with that it

WINE IN THE HEBRIDES.

41

drawis nvmberis of thame to miserable necessitie and powertie sua that thay ar constraynit quhen thay want of thair awne to tak from thair nichtbouris For remeid quhairof the Lordis of Secrete Counsell statutis and ordanis that nane of the tennentis and commonis of the Yllis sall at ony tyme heirefter buy or drink ony wynes in the Ylles or continent nixt adiacent vnder the pane of tuenty pundis to be incurrit be euery contravenare toties quoties The ane half of the said pane to the Kingis Maiestie and the vther half to thair maisteris and landislordis and chiftanes Commanding heirby the maisteris landislordis and chiftanes to the sadis tennentis and commonis euery ane of thame within thair awine boundis to sie thir present act preceislie and inviolablie keept and the contravenaris to be accordinglie pvnist and to vplift the panes of the contravenaris and to mak rekning and payment of the ane halff of the said panes in [his] Maiesteis excheckar yeirlie and to apply the vther halff of the saidis panes to thair

awne vse.

However, in 1622, confessing the failure of their former attempts, they prohibit its importation from any quarter, and its sale by any person whatever. The following ordinance was passed in July 1622:

Act that Nane send Wynis to the Ilis.

Apud Edinburgh 23 Julij 1622. Forsamekle as it is vnderstand to the Lordis of Secreit Counsell that one of the cheiff caussis whilk procuris the continewance of the inhabitantis of the Ilis in their barbarous and inciuile forme of leving is the grite quantitie of wynes yeirlie caryed to the Ilis with the vnsatiable desire quhairof the saidis inhabitantis are so far possest that quhen their arryvis ony ship or other veshell thair with wynes thay spend bothe dayis and nightis in thair excesse of drinking and seldome do thay leave thair

drinking so lang as thair is ony of the wyne restand sua that being ouercome with drink thair fallis oute mony inconvenientis amangis thame to the brek of his Maiesteis peace And quhairas the chiftanes and principallis of the clannis in the Yllis ar actit to tak suche ordour with thair tennentis as nane of thame be sufferit to drink wynes yitt so lang as thair is ony wynes caryed to the Ilis thay will hardlie be withdrawne frome thair evill custome of drinking bot will follow the same and continew thairin whensoeuir thay may find the occasioun For remeid quhairof in tyme comeing The Lordis of Secreit Counsell ordanis lettres to be direct to command charge and inhibite all and sindrie marcheantis skipparis and awnaris of shippis and veshellis be oppin proclamatioun at all placeis neidfull that nane of thame presoume nor tak vpoun hand to carye and transporte ony wynes to the Ilis nor to sell the same to the inhabitantis of the Ilis except so mekle as is alloued to the principall chiftanes and gentlemen of the Ilis vnder the pane of confiscatioun of the whole wynes so to be caryed and sauld in the Ilis aganis the tenour of this proclamatioun or els of the availl and pryceis of the same to his Maiesties vse.

But this applied only to the 'commons and tenants,' for the chiefs were allowed a quantity yearly according to their rank. MacLean of Coll, and MacLean of Lochbuy, were each restricted to four hogsheads; Clanranald had twelve; MacLeod of Dunvegan, sixteen. This last is fifteen bottles daily, which seems a liberal allowance.

Those who seek personally for business among small hotel-keepers, publicans, and that class, have a hard life of it, for, with many, no bargain can be concluded without something to drink.' This practice cannot be continued without destroying the