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AN AGREEABLE VARIETY.

243

We joined the procession and marched down to the custom-house in the plaza, when there was a halt, and the noise of the ponderous knockers on the custom-house gate was heard. Being desirous to have a full view of this extraordinary scene, I was working my way towards the principal actors, when my guide friend declared 'he not go no farder;' so I went farder' alone, wondering, I confess, what I should do if a troop of the fine-looking yellow dragoons were let loose among us; but they had the kindness not to interfere.

The knocking at the door and the noise became louder, but the gates stood motionless, till the cries of my friends the goods-destroyers became so decided, and their perseverance so evident, that the gate was seen to swing on its hinges; being unlocked from within.

In a moment the square resounded with cheers, torches were waved aloft, and a general excitement prevailed. The wagon was backed in, the goods loaded, the custom-house people assisting, and in a little time the order was given to march up to the Plaza do Commercio. Resolved to see it out, I joined the procession, arm in arm with a couple of fellows with clothing exceedingly suitable to a very hot climate, and with bare, brown, brawny arms, and the red cap. I could cheer and make a noise as loud as the lustiest, but as to speaking, I remembered the old Scotch saying, that it is sometimes prudent to keep a calm sough.'

After half a mile's march, we reached the square,

where there was prepared a blazing fire, upon which the goods were thrown; and no sooner did they begin to burn than a grand cheer arose and we all danced round, rejoicing in their destruction; after which I retired to my inn.

I learned the next day that the true history of this outbreak was, that some of the principal manufacturers, or dealers in cottons, were afraid that, if the custom-house once began to sell seizures, they would continue to do so, which would greatly injure them; and they therefore paid their workmen and others, to put a stop to it in the beginning.

Barcelona carries on a large trade; the inhabitants are an industrious people, possessing cotton mills; but I was assured they did not produce one half the quantity of goods sold as their manufacture; that the greater proportion was smuggled over the Pyrenees from France, and by Gibraltar from England.

EL CONTRABANDISTA.

Yo que soy Contrabandista, y campo por mi respeto.
Yo que soy Contrabandista, y campo per mi respeto.
A todos los desafio,

Pues á nadie tengo miedo.

A todos los desafio,

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EASTERN COAST OF SPAIN.

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There is an immense quantity of wine produced at Tarragona and in that neighbourhood; but no endeavour seems to be made to grow any but the coarse red kind, which is exported to all parts of the world; and even to France, to give body and colour to others that are deficient in these qualities.

We are accustomed in this country to transactions on a scale that astounds foreigners, but in the matter of wine, our trade is so small and limited that one feels actually ashamed to speak of it to those living in wine districts. I have already alluded to this on several occasions, but cannot resist again referring to it when treating of the wines in this part of Spain.

It will scarcely be credited, but is nevertheless a fact, that no less than 14,175 pipes of red wine were shipped to South America, in thirty-two Spanish vessels, in one month (June) of this year (1864), from Barcelona and Tarragona alone.

No country possesses greater advantages than the eastern coast of Spain for growing every class of wine, and in quantities so enormous that figures can give but a very slight idea of the amount. Within these few years more attention has been directed to this favoured spot; and although a long time elapses before new vines give wine at all, and still longer before the grapes are in perfection, yet with more attention to the vines in existence, and more skill and care in converting the grapes into wine, it has already been shown that an excellent quality can be produced.

I had a proof that, even then, carelessly and unskilfully as it was made, it becomes good when mellowed by age; for, observing some old dusty bottles on a shelf in a wine shop, two Frenchmen and myself bought a few, and found them to be capital rancio (old); nearly the colour of brown sherry, and very different from the dark new kind. Tarragona is the great port of shipment for Catalonian wines, which at that time and before the vine disease, were sold at very low prices, viz. 47. or 57. per pipe. The rancio, when of good quality, and its tawny colour is not produced by the mixture of white wine with the red, is worth from 127. to 147. per pipe.

The usual way of selling all along this coast is per tun of 252 gallons, which is equal to two pipes of 126 gallons each. I was told they put in no brandy, but this I do not believe. Very large shipments were made to Cette, Marseilles, and other ports in France, a few years ago, on account of their comparative cheapness, and also to give strength and colour to many of the French wines; and the same is still done to a great extent.

Leaving Barcelona in the comfortable Spanish steamer in which I embarked at Gibraltar, I landed on the following day in Marseilles; and thus ended the steaming portion of a very interesting journey; for we sailed during the night, and reached the various towns early in the morning, and remained on shore till the evening.

BARCELONA TO MARSEILLES.

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The whole coast from Gibraltar to Marseilles is a continued variety of beautiful hills running to the sca, pierced by fertile valleys, in which is almost always a village; and the elegant feluccas with their white sails, skimming along the clear blue Mediterranean, add to the interest of the voyage. Frequently the captain pointed out the ruins of towns whose names are familiar to schoolboys; and in all my travels I think I have never been more astonished, than when a place on a hill was shown to me, and I was told it was Saguntum. The name instantly brought back many recollections, not the most agreeable; for I remembered long lessons about a long siege, and long pieces of Latin to be learnt about that tiresome siege.

It also reminded me of the late Professor Pillans, then (1813) head master of the Edinburgh High School; and equally vividly did Saguntum make me think of a class-fellow, Archie Campbell, much given to fall asleep, but who was quite awake to the story that the Saguntines when sorely pressed by hunger sowed turnips on their ramparts; for when Mr. Pillans called out, Campbell, what did the Saguntines do?' he immediately replied, 'Sawed neeps, Sir.'

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