friend and confidant; he fed, clothed, and supplied him with money; he confided to him his terrors at appearing before an audience so fastidious as the Romans. The Abbé assured him, that he had nothing to fear, as his opinion was looked up to by the whole bench of critics, and when he approved, none dare dissent.

The awful night for poor Poggi at length arrived; his fidus Achates took his usual seat, in his little locked-up chair, in the pit. It was agreed between them, that he was to convey to Poggi, by signs, the feeling of the audience towards him ;-if they approved, the Abbé was to nod his head; if the contrary, to shake it. When Poggi had sung his first song, the Abbé nodded, and cried, "Bravo! bravissimo!" but in the second act, Poggi became hoarse, and imperfect; the audience gave a gentle hiss, which disconcerted the affrighted singer, and made him worse: on this, his friend became outrageous, and standing up on his chair, after putting out his wax-light, and closing his book, he looked Poggi in the face, and exclaimed, "Signor Poggi, I am the mouth of truth, and thus declare, that you are decidedly the worst singer that ever appeared in Rome! I also declare, that you ought to be hooted off the stage for your impudence, in imposing on my simple and credulous good nature, as you have done." This produced roars of laughter, and poor

Poggi retired, never to appear again, without even exclaiming, "Et tu, Brute," which he might most appropriately have applied to his guardian crony.

A circumstance something like this, took place at the Teatro Argentini. A tenor singer of the name of Gabrielli, brother of the great female singer of that name, was engaged there. Before he had got through five bars of his first song, the critics began to hiss and hoot, (and very deservedly so, for he was execrable,) saying, "Get away, you cursed raven!" "Get off, you goat!" On which he came forward and addressed the audience very mildly," You fancy you are mortifying me, by hooting me; you are grossly deceived; on the contrary, I applaud your judgment, for I solemnly declare to you, that I never appeared on any stage without receiving the same treatment, and sometimes much worse!" This appeal, though it produced a momentary laugh, could not procure a second appearance for the poor fellow.

A description of the magnificent buildings of Rome is not what is expected perhaps in memoirs such as these; yet it is impossible to speak of that magnificent city without noticing the splendid structures which every where strike the eye of a stranger.

The Church of St. Peter appeared to me so magnificent, that our St. Paul's seemed but an epitome of it, though built on the same plan. When

the Pope chaunts the Te Deum, assisted by the choir, and in some parts by the whole congregation, (generally possessing good voices and fine ears,) the effect produced is certainly sublime; but it is in the Pope's chapel only, one can hear in perfection the divine music of Palestini.

Like all strangers, I of course visited the Coliseum, the Palazzi Corsini and Borghese, with their magnificent gardens, the Villa Albani, the Vatican, the Pantheon, and all its superb antiquities. Before I left Naples, I was so fortunate as to procure a letter from a Dominican friar to Father M'Mahon, a Capuchin, and a very worthy countryman of mine; who kindly became my guide, and explained every thing to me. He conducted me to see the house where Raphael had resided in the Via di Cornari-to the Via Gregorina, where Salvator Rosa and Gaspar Poussin both had lived, and also to the Trinità del Monte, where Tadeo Zuchero died. He had begged his way to Rome, but was rich enough before his death to build some of the most superb palaces in that city. On the Trinità del Monte, Mengs had also dwelt, and painted the walls of his own bed-chamber. His apartments were afterwards inhabited by Angelica Kauffman, when she finally left England.

We went to the church of the Saint Onofrio convent, where lie the remains of Tasso, whose incomparable genius produced his Jerusalem Delivered

before he was thirty years of age; and who, it is said, composed verses at seven years old! The sight of the beautiful palace, Via Colonna, the dwellings of Propertius and Virgil, near Porto St. Lorenzo, and the gardens of Mecænas, finished our

researches.

Amongst the living sights, I frequently saw in his carriage his Eminence Cardinal York, brother to the Pretender, but whom the Romans called brother of the King of England! He bore an excellent character, and was charitable in the extreme, particularly to any English who claimed his protection*.

*Father M'Mahon told me a comical story of a countryman of our's, a Mr. Patrick O'Flanagan, who having been wrecked at Genoa, travelled on foot to Rome to beg assistance of Cardinal York, and got the Cardinal's porter, who was a Scotchman, to present his Eminence with the following conciliatory letter.

May it please your Sanctity,

I was cast on shore at Genoa-travelled on foot to Rome. Hearing of your Holiness's humanity to poor Irishmen-for thirteen years I served his Britannic Majesty, King George the Third in the navy. God bless and prosper him to boot. I hate and detest the Pope and the Pretender, and I defy them and the devil and all his works, and am,

Your Sanctity's obedient servant,

PAT. O'FLANAGAN.

Pat waited until the Cardinal was going out to take his morning's ride, when he threw himself on his knees before his Eminence, who laughed heartily at his elegant epistle, and ordered him twenty Roman crowns.

Mr. Stewart, his family, and myself, in our way back from Rome, passed a day at Frascati. I was delighted with this village, the scene of Paesiello's beautiful comic opera, called La Frascatana, particularly as it was the first Italian opera I had ever seen in Dublin.

We returned in safety to Naples, Mr. Stewart proceeding to his house in the Chiaja, and myself to my worthy master, Finerolli. He seemed pleased to see me, and expressed a hope that I would now attend steadily to my studies. My mornings were devoted to the Conservatorios and festivals which were daily celebrated in the different churches. My passion for music amounted to adoration, and as at my time of life, good or bad taste was easily imbibed and fixed, I was fortunate in never hearing any, but of the most superior kind, and performed by the first professors of the age. My evening I passed generally at one of the theatres, if not so fortunate as to be engaged to Sir William Hamilton, or at some of the great houses, where I had been introduced. I must say, that at the time I speak of, to be a native of Great Britain, was a passe partout all over Italy! indeed, the name of Englishman was held in such reverence, that if two Italians were making a bargain, it was clenched by one saying, "I pledge myself to do so and so on the honour of an Englishman."