gallery of Louis Philippe contains the history of the revolution of July in immense pictures.

I could not tear myself away from "The Enchanted Gardens," until night came and shut them from my view; then I consented to return to Paris.

We have just taken our first promenade in the "Imperial City." We passed down the Rue Castiglione into the Place Vendome, a great square paved with flat stones, and surrounded with handsome buildings. In the centre is the "Column of Napoléon;" it is of great height, and upon the top is the statue of the immortal Corsican. The figure is of bronze; the costume, a military overcoat and cocked hat: the attitude is very natural. The column was built by the orders of the emperor, to perpetuate the memory of his campaigns in Germany, and bears the inscription, " Monument erected to the glory of the Grand Army by Napoléon the Great." From the pedestal to the summit it is covered with bas reliefs, in bronze, made from the twelve hundred cannon taken in the campaigns in Russia and Austria; they represent all the battles from the first to that of Austerlitz. There is a stairway within the column, and near the top is a balustrade, whence a splendid view of the city is obtained. An old soldier walked in front to and fro. There is a railing around and upon it, and at the door of entrance are hung hundreds of wreaths of immortelles, and bouquets of flowers, thus showing the undying adoration for the most wonderful of men, save our own Washington.

From the Place Vendome we walked through the elegant street of La Paix, thence into the Boulevards. The Boulevards are a great feature in Parisian life; the bulwarks or ramparts of the city once occupied these streets. When Paris ceased to be a fortified city in the times of Louis XIV. the walls were hurled down, and the ditches filled up and

planted with trees. They run nearly round the city, bearing different names at various points. The street is immensely wide, with a broad pavement, and beyond that rows of trees. It may well be said the Boulevards are "the heart of Paris." The most fashionable is the Boulevard des Italiens. There one sees magnificent houses and dazzlingly decorated shops, gorgeously embellished restaurants and cafés. Upon the pavement, or side walk, were seated hundreds of persons, talking and drinking eau sucrée, or coffee. The street was thronged with carriages, and a regiment of soldiers were marching through it. All was life and enjoyment, mingled so charmingly, I could have tarried there for hours. The Boulevards are especially chosen for shops and for hotels.

We drove up the gay Boulevards to the church of La Madeleine. Ah! with what joy my eyes rested upon this magnificent temple to the true God." The architecture is noble and symmetrical. It is built after the style of the Parthenon, at Athens, but is much larger. The building stands upon a platform, about ten feet high, and is entirely encircled by a peristyle of Corinthian columns, sixty feet high, and six in diameter. Along the walls are niches, wherein are placed colossal statues of the saints. Through the great bronze doors we entered the church. The floor is of marble, and paintings and statuary bewilder one with their beauty. Over the high altar is the exquisite statue of the Virgin, guarded by two angels. The light comes from three cupolas. There are six chapels; each has a statue of its patron saint. The high altar has a group, in which the Magdalene is represented as ascending to heaven, borne up by the wings of angels. It is lovely in design and execution, and is by Marochetti. The Madeleine was commenced in 1763. In consequence of the revolution, the building was stopt. In 1808, Napoléon determined to change its destina

tion, and make it a "temple of glory to the grand army." Upon the restoration of the Bourbons, it was dedicated to St. Madeleine, and the work commenced. It was, however, finished by Louis Philippe, to whom Paris owes many of its fine monuments.

CHAPTER XIII.

July 22d.

whom we

A MOST agreeable and polite gentleman, to brought a letter, accompanied us last night to the Opera Comique. The Opera was Haidée, the music by Auber. Two acts occur on ship-board, and so perfect were all the appointments, we scemed really looking upon a ship. Although the voices were none of them remarkable, yet the ensemble produced a fine effect. The acting was admirable. The orchestra, consisting of one hundred musicians, was delightful.

The house is a handsome one. Nearly all the boxes have a small saloon attached, where one can call for ices by ringing a little bell. There is a "Foyer," or large saloon, decorated with Corinthian pillars, and well furnished, where persons promenade between the acts. This is a most charming arrangement. We met there a number of our English acquaintances, who, now that the season in London is over, are coming by hundreds to Paris.

This has been a glorious day. We began it by a walk in the Gardens of the Tuileries, just in front of our hotel. They are of immense size, and laid out by Le Nôtre in the reign of Louis XIV. There are multitudes of trees growing so near each other that not one ray of sunlight invades the

LA PLACE DE LA CONCORDE.

95

deep shade. There are broad walks and lovely flower parterres, great circular basins from whose centre spring up shining pillars of water. There are fine statues and antiques and vases. Every portion of the ground is filled, and perfect taste and harmony prevail in all the arrangements of fountains, of flower-beds and of statuary. These gardens are directly in front of the Palace of the Tuileries, and are open to all the world. . They are constantly filled. There are children with their nurses, young women and old ones with their pet dogs carefully muzzled, well-dressed ladies, and dandyfied-looking men, small soldiers and tall grenadiers. Chairs are placed under the trees, and rented for a few sous. Thus many poor working-women spend all the day here, embroidering or knitting. The open air seems the special delight of the French people. Oh! how enjoyable are these public gardens, free alike to the rich and the poor.

From the Gardens of the Tuileries we passed on to La Place de la Concorde, once called Place de la Revolution, where the lovely Marie Antoinette perished by the guillotine -where Louis XVI., Madame Elizabeth, and many of the nobles of France met the fate of the hapless queen. Swiftly through my mind were wafted the scenes of those terrible days. But now, how magnificent is the view! The wide world has not, I am sure, its equal. On every side splendid monuments meet the eyes: the noble Palace of the Kings, to the east, rising above the groves of the garden; on the west the Champs Elysées, and beyond them the graceful outline of the Triumphal Arch. Terminating the Rue Royale was the classic and majestic Madeleine, while across the River Seine the marble palace, called the Chamber of Deputies, was visible.

In the centre of "La Place de la Concorde" is the grand obelisk of Luxor. It is of red granite, and was brought from