CHAPTER VII.

July 7th. We visited Grosvenor House to-day, in company with the Hon. Mrs. Wortley. It is the residence of the Marquis of Westminster. It is a grand old building, with a screen of classic-looking pillars dividing it from the street.

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We were invited to walk through the picture-gallery, which was a great delight to me. The walls were covered with a fine and rare collection, while many exquisite statues and vases of verde-antique were seen in the rooms. The paintings which particularly pleased me, were those by Rubens and by Guido. "Sarah dismissing Hagar" is admirable, also the four Scriptural paintings by Rubens, the "Marriage of Cana," by Paul Veronese, the "Infant Christ," by Guido, the "Tribute Money," by Titian, the

Holy Family," by Salvator Rosa, the "King of Spain," by Velasquez, the "Salutation of Elizabeth," by Rembrandt, and "Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse," a splendid picture by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The original painting cost £1,760. There was a most touching picture of the "Death of General Wolfe," by Benjamin West. Many landscapes by Claude Lorraine were exquisite, also those by Poussin, by Teniers, by Gerard, by Vandervelde. The "Distressed Poet," by Hogarth, is excellent.

The drawing-rooms opened upon most lovely grounds, where old trees o'ershadowed the greensward, fresh and smooth as emerald-hued velvet. No sound of the great city reached us there.

At three we went to Greenwich, accompanied by Sir Frederick Adam, an old veteran of Waterloo, whose acquaintance I had made at her Majesty's ball. He was a delightful cicerone, and a most pleasant man. He pointed out to us all the objects of interest en route. His brother was Governor of Greenwich, and we thus had permission to see every portion of the building. This hospital is for disabled sailors. It was founded by William and Mary, and is built upon the site of the old manor house, where Mary and Elizabeth were born.

The great hall by Wren is magnificent. The portraits of the Royal family are mingled in an allegorical picture upon the ceiling. The walls are hung with the portraits of naval and military heroes. The Battle of Trafalgar, by Turner, is a fine, spirited painting. We saw the coat worn by Nelson when he received his death-wound. It is preserved as a precious relic.

There are a number of statues erected by Parliament, which one of the "Ancient Mariners" explained to us. There are two thousand old sailors in this hospital. Many never leave their beds. The institution is very rich, having an income of 130,000 pounds sterling a year.

Numbers of the old pensioners were seated on benches, with their friends, or children, or grandchildren around them. They seemed happy and contented, and are permitted to receive visitors at stated hours.

In all directions about London are Asylums for the afflicted. The public charities are noble. Enormous sums must be yearly spent in the relief of the poor.

In Brompton there is an institution for, consumptive patients, where only maladies of the lungs are treated. Jenny Lind gave largely to this charity.

We made a long and agreeable visit to Greenwich, and, parting with regret from Sir Frederick, we drove over Black Heath. This is a great waste, or common, where cricket is played, and where women hire out donkeys for a ride across the Heath. Midway of the plain there is an excellent view of London, and afar off the Crystal Palace of Sydenham, now building, was gleaming in the sunlight.

We went to dine with our cordial friend, Mr. Bennoch. His cottage is a sweet spot, encircled by trees, and with a lovely garden of bright-hued flowers. Every where the eyes are blest by beautiful flowers. Much more do these northern people seem to prize them than we of the south. Nearly all the houses, it matters not how humble, have their little gardens, and even in the inost thronged and tumultuous portions of the city flowers are in the windows. in the wretched dwellings of the poor they are seen growing in broken cups and old boxes. Whenever I looked upon them I could but feel there were still refined emotions in these victims of toil. There was still a love for the beautiful which not even poverty could destroy.

Even

Mr. Bennoch had kindly assembled a charming company to meet us, our delightful Grace Greenwood, and lovely Camilla Crosland; then the German poet, Ferdinand Freiligrath, who is a handsome man, with a wondrous fine head, and a face glowing with soul and honest feeling.

Sir Henry Bishop was among the guests. He is a tall, cold, stern-looking man; his face however lighted up when he seated himself at the piano-forte and played "Home," and various other songs, which have become as household words. His touch of the instrument was exquisite; such grace and

melody flowed from it, we constantly entreated "yet another, yet another."

It was here, too, I came to know Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall. They are both authors and poets, and genial, warm-hearted, intelligent people. Mrs. Hall was the friend of Kate Hayes, the Irish vocalist, and the first to encourage her. I was glad I could tell how vividly impressed upon the grateful heart of Katy was her every act of kindness and protection.

Another chord of sympathy drew me to Mrs. Hall. She was also the friend of Miss Bremer, and we sat in long and earnest talk concerning this much-loved philanthropist and cherished friend.

As we were to return by the railway to London, we left our kind host and his sweet wife about one o'clock, and, accompanied by the German poet and Sir Henry, were soon en route.

How much I enjoyed that short journey. It passed in conversation with Freiligrath. In my own country he seemed to feel the deepest interest, and spoke with high appreciation of Longfellow, whom he had met in Germany. He is truly republican in sentiment, and remarked with wonder upon our progress, and the energy of Americans. In speaking of his own country he was most eloquent and inspiring. He has been twice exiled from Prussia, his native land. Both times he has found a home in England. I believe it was his fine poem, "The Living to the Dead," which was chanted by the students in Dusseldorf, thereby causing his arrest, trial, and exile. He still evinces a most heroic devotion to freedom..

When we left the railway, we walked across London Bridge, and took a cab into the city. It was a bright, clear night, and the great dome of St. Paul's seemed like a mighty giant, watching over the slumbers of the inhabitants.

The moonlight fell softly upon the sculptured turrets of Westminster Palace. The hum of commerce was silent, and,

of London,

"All that mighty heart was lying still."

July 8th.-We went this morning with Lady Wharncliffe to visit the Duchess of Sutherland's splendid mansion, "Stafford House," which was commenced by the Duke of York. It belongs to the Crown, but is leased by the Duke of Sutherland, who has greatly enlarged it.

Although the exterior is not very striking, within all is regal splendor. The great hall is magnificent. It occupies the centre of the building, and is roofed over by a lofty dome. Along three sides of the hall extends a gallery, sustained by pillars. On the fourth is the staircase; half-way up there is a landing, whence diverge two flights of steps. Upon this landing is a statue of the Sybil, by Rinaldi. The stairs are covered with scarlet cloth, and many fine works of art adorn this wonderful hall. Among them I saw an exquisite marble bust of Lady Constance Grosvenor, by the Baron Marochetti, and a bust in plaster of Mrs. Beecher Stowe, the authoress of " Uncle Tom's Cabin."

It is almost impossible to describe the gorgeousness and beautiful arrangements of this noble mansion. There is an elegance, an adaptativeness in all the combinations, manifesting clearly the inspiration of feminine taste. There is such a perfect tone and keeping in the hangings of the rooms, and in the furniture adapted to each. All is so luxurious and so : unique.

The walls of the Green Drawing-room were hung with green satin, and the furniture of green and gold. Then we came to the room with crimson hangings, and furniture of the same color. Then to the Blue and to the Yellow Draw