ARRIVAL OF THE FERNANDO EL CATOLICO.

311

and it was absolutely refreshing to the spirit, to see no more the stir, the rush, the effort of Anglo-Saxon life. An enjoyable quietude pervades the earth and air, and all objects. present a novel aspect.

Beautiful Cuba! Beautiful Cuba! It is not strange to me now that the followers of Columbus knelt upon the ground where first they landed, and thanked the good God for the gift of such a glorious country.

At night we went to the Tacon, to the opera. Steffanone was grandly magnificent-Salvi and Beneventano in superb voice. Indescribably elegant is the Tacon, so perfect in its proportions, and so tasteful in arrangement. Chocolate and suspiros at Domenica's ended our busy day.

As we entered the hotel we met M. D., who gave us the charming tidings of the arrival of the Fernando el Católico. He had been on board the splendid steamer, and engaged state-rooms for our voyage across the southern ocean. What a joy it was to us, to know we should not be compelled to visit the regions of ice and snow, ere we stood beneath the dome of St. Peter. The Fernando el Católico will remain one week only in Havana, and then depart for Cadiz. As there had been some doubt of her coming, we had feared we might be forced to go to Southampton, and thence through France to Italy. To visit Spain, and to witness the solemn ceremonies of the Holy Week in Rome, had been the strongest incentives which drew us from our home. Now we should accomplish both, and bright and radiant visions of the future mingled with our dreams.

Ere the dawn we were awakened by the marching of several regiments past our windows. There has been some rumor of an intended invasion, and hence this martial array by day and night. The soldiers are generally from old

Spain. They are exceedingly dark of complexion, strong and robust in appearance, although of small stature. We were told that immense numbers of them die each season with the vomito, (yellow fever.) They are remarkable for loyalty and devotion to their sovereign.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Feb. 5th, 1855.-During the morning we were occupied in writing letters or receiving visitors. In the afternoon we had a delightful drive on the paseo, and at night we went to the ball at the palace. It was a magnificent assemblage of the grandees of the island, in superb court dresses or rich uniforms. The lovely Cubanas were in beautiful toilettes, glittering with diamonds.

Madame Concha, a most genial and pleasant woman, presented us to many of the señoras and señoritas, with whom we were charmed; they have such a sweet, caressing manner, so kind and unaffected. There is a trait of character so noble among the Cuban women, I cannot refrain from mentioning it. They never speak ill of each other, but always find some palliation for the errors of their own sex.

There was music, and dancing of the graceful contra danza, which seems peculiarly delineative of tropical life. In the soft, luxurious strains of the music, one feels the influence of the delicious breeze, and sees in the swaying of the form the movement of the palm leaves.

The Captain-General was in a splendid dress, with many orders gleaming on his breast. A number of Spanish officers were present. They are uncommonly handsome, delightful in conversation, and admirable dancers.

VOL. I.-14

The palace is upon the Plaza d'Armas, the great square, embellished with statues, fountains, trees, and flowers. About eleven o'clock we were all invited to go out on the balcony, when the Captain-General gave a signal for the serenata (concert in the open air) to begin. Ah! how inexpressibly bewitching was the scene around us! It appeared the realization of some enchanting dream. The sky was like a dome of sapphire hue, encrusted with myriads of stars, while the full moon poured over the waving palms a flood of silver light.

There were hundreds of volantes, filled with gaily-dressed women, drawn up near the Plaza, and beyond them lines of soldiers with shining bayonets. Loud pealed the strains of national music, and soft female voices melted and mingled with the melody.

During the evening we were introduced to the CaptainGeneral of Porto Rico, who will be our compagnon du voyage in the Fernando el Católico. He is a noble-looking

man.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Feb. 6th. We went this morning to see the fish-market. It is deemed one of the "wonders of Cuba." It would seem that all the colors of the rainbow were distinctly visible in the glowing hues of the fish. Blue, red, white, violet, goldedged, and silver-tinted, were heaped up in vast piles, quivering and dancing in the sunlight. Then there were almost trees of coral, and a profusion of sea-shells.

In the afternoon, by the permission of the courteous Captain-General, we visited the Moro Castle. It is a strong and imposing fortress, built on the great rocks at the entrance to the harbor. It has massive walls, high towers, and broad battlements, like the old feudal castles of Northern Europe. There were several officers who politely conducted us over the castle, and explained to us many curious and death-dealing instruments. By the side of the Moro, and united to it, in truth, is the farola (light-house) erected by O'Donnell, (once the Captain-General of the island.) It is of vast height, resembling much the famous "Tower of the Clock" at Venice. We ascended to the top of the farola. The view thence is extended and magnificent. The bay of Havana is certainly one of the finest in the world; it was crowded with vessels, from whose mast-heads floated the flags