Within a quiet little bay, we saw "Pliniana," named thus from Pliny's description of a singular spring amid the grounds. His villa, however, was supposed to be upon the site of the "Villa Lenno," as broken columns have been found there beneath the water. Near the little village of Bovisio, Napoléon lived for some time, in the " Villa Mombello." There Josephine joined him, soon after the "Fall of Venice," and an elegant court, not only of French nobles, but of Italians likewise, surrounded him during the "negotiations for peace."

We rowed by garden, village, and villa, until warned by our boatmen to return; that is, if we intended reaching the city of Como by night. As such was our purpose, we reluctantly saw them turn the barciolina towards it. As we passed along, the shores were like a beautiful panorama, gradually unfolding before our eyes, and at last came the town of Como. The boat is nearing the quai, and I must cease writing.

"Can I forget-ah! never, such a scene

So full of witchery.".

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE city of Como has a population of twenty thousand inhabitants. It was the first city, in ancient times, to throw off the "tyrant's chains," and become a Republic. It continued thus for two centuries, when it was conquered by the Visconti, and since has belonged to the Masters of Milan. It was the birthplace of Pliny the younger, (and many say also that of the elder Pliny); the people are very proud of being his compatriots; and in wandering through the town, we fell in with a ragged beggar, who insisted upon constituting himself our guide, and said, in a pompous tone, "This is indeed the land of great men-ecco Pliny!"

The Cathedral is a fine building, all of marble. In front are two statues of the Plinys, raised to their honor in the sixteenth century. Within the church are many paintings by Luino, who was born on the shores of the lake. Volta was likewise a native of Como.

The lake, called by the Romans Lacus Larius, is about forty miles long. No place upon earth has ever been more frequently the theme of the poet and the painter, and none surpasses its wondrous beauty. It is related that Ugo Foscolo often remarked, "it was impossible to study near the

lake, the landscape around was too inviting to permit the companionship of books."

From Como we went on to Milan, by railway, in one hour and a half. We rode in an omnibus beyond the range of mountains which shut in the lake, to the Plain of Lombardy, where the Strada Ferrata (the iron street) begins. The country through which we passed was exceedingly fertile, with groves of olive trees, (small ones, however,) mulberry plantations, myriads of peach and prune trees, and fields of wheat and Turkish grain. We reached Milan early in the afternoon, and entered it through the Arco della Pace, (the Arch of Peace.) It was commenced by Napoléon, and intended by him to be called "The Arch of the Simplon" and to be adorned with a statue of Victory, but his downfall ended all these purposes, and the Austrians finished it, changing all the bas reliefs, and substituting others emblematic of peace.

Milan is called by the Italians Milan the Great In the fourth century it was deemed the sixth city of Italy. All the large cities have some favorite designation, illustrative of their peculiar excellence. Thus Rome is "The Holy," Naples "The Happy," and Venice "The Rich." Milan. was founded by the Gauls, and in 452 was sacked by Attila, the Hun. In 1162 Frederick the First entirely destroyed it, and blotted the name of " Milano " from the cities of the land. Some years after, it was determined to rebuild it, which was done by the combined forces of all the towns most active in its destruction. These were Brescia, Cremona, Verona, and Bergamo. Eighty years after its reconstruction, began the rule of the Viscontis and the Sforzas. Milan then became celebrated throughout all Europe, and gave fashions to the world: hence comes the word milliner. When the Sforza family passed away, Milan fell under the

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power of Charles V., in 1535. Thus becoming Austrian, then French, and again Austrian. It is a strongly walled city, and a splendid one. The streets are nicely paved, the houses large, and many built of marble from the quarries near Domo d'Ossolo.

The people look very different from any we have seen of late; they are extremely handsome. The men are of fine stature, dark, and striking in appearance, with long moustache and beards; the women are graceful and comely. Both remind us of the creoles of Louisiana in their fine physique. They seem well fed, prosperous, and contented; especially have the friars and monks in tight breeches and silk stockings, a happy, jaunty air. There were multitudes of Austrian soldiers in every street through which we passed. They are fair, cold, and stern, in aspect; the very antipodes of the Milanese.

We stopped at the "Hotel de Ville," (an excellent hotel.) From the window we beheld the Duomo, or cathedral, and although we had fancied ourselves too weary even to go down to dinner, we thought no more of fatigue when the graceful spires of this "Pride of Milan" met our eyes. We replaced our bonnets and hastened away to obtain a nearer view of the majestic and elaborately-wrought exterior of the cathedral. As it was too late to enter, we walked around it, in the dim twilight, and then on through the thronged streets, with numerous and brilliantly-lighted cafés, where crowds were drinking coffee, or eating ice creams and sherbets. There was a life about the scene peculiarly pleasant, recalling somewhat the busy stream of Broadway, and we tarried long amid the merry throng, ere we sought repose in our hotel.

We spent some charming days in Milan, and were constantly occupied visiting the various objects of interest. We

went often to the Duomo, so long deemed second only to St. Peter's in grandeur. It is almost impossible to describe it, the mind is bewildered by the multitude of statues which cluster in thousands around, on the summit of every spire, and along the cornices of the great edifice. The cathedral was commenced in 1386, by Giovanni Visconti, in fulfilment of a vow, and is not even yet completed. It is built of white marble from the quarries near Lago di Maggiore. Time gives it a rich yellow tint, though in many places it is black with age. It is in the form of a Latin cross; the columns supporting the roof are immense. They are fifty in number, each formed by an assemblage of eight shafts; the height of every pillar is eighty feet, and eighteen at the base. The capitals of these are finely wrought. The ceiling is of delicate fret-work, and the windows of painted glass, a portion of each being the work of Pellegrini, exceedingly brilliant. The cannon of the French made sad havoc with these windows. The Austrian Government are now having them restored, but the imitation of the original is very poor. There are many noble monuments and fine pictures adorning the aisles and altars.

The tomb of San Carlo Borromeo is beneath the church, in a richly decorated chapel containing along the walls bas reliefs, in silver gilt, of all the great events of his life, from his birth unto his reception into Paradise. In the centre of this chapel the body of the saint reposes. It is enclosed in a shrine of gold and silver, .and is attired in the Pontifical robes. Through the large plates of rock crystal, the face is distinctly seen that of a skeleton, awakening the most painful emotions, and in striking contrast with the dazzling jewels which glitter around the mouldering form.

San Carlo Borromeo is the Patron Saint of Milan; he was born in 1538, and at the age of twenty-two, was Arch