they may probably be worn in the country, in the striped muslins, ginghams, &c. &c., which are usually adopted for morning dress; but their vogue here is over.

New materials for robes are very numerous, and some extremely pretty. Silks are as yet most in vogue for the promenade. Plain silks, and those that are striped and chequered in quiet patterns, predominate in plain walking dress; batiste écrue, and narrow-striped coutil, are also employed for the early morning walk, but they are rather intended for the country than town. We have for the public promenade, visits, and pekins, foulards, and taffetas, plaided, quadrilled, and striped in a variety of new patterns; soi glacé and shaded are also in vogue; they are usually in rich warm tints. Light materials will probably, before the end of the month, be quite as much in favour; the new ones are palmyriennes, quadrilled or striped; grenadine, plain gaze de chevre, mousseline de soi of various colours; plain ones, however, are not so much in request as those of black or white grounds, strewed not very thickly with bouquets of flowers. Gaze popeline is a new material, somewhat of the barege kind, and likely to supersede it. This last, and muslin and organdy, are in great request in demi-toilette.

The peignoir form is generally adopted in morning dress; those for complete deshabille are of batiste écrue, trimmed with soutache of a new kind, corresponding with the colours of the robe. Where the dress is intended to be worn after the very early part of the morning, it is generally of cambric, trimmed either with Valenciennes lace, or with bouillonné, through which coloured ribbon is run. A little cap, bordered with a single row of lace, and decorated with a small knot of ribbon placed on one side, is almost invariably adopted, with a peignoir.

and terminated by a lace ruffle: I should observe that it corresponds with the chemisette. The revers is continued en tablier down the front of the skirt; the centre may be decorated either with brandebourgs or with bands of passementerie of a narrow open pattern, disposed in lozenges. Corsages à la Dubarry are coming much into vogue; they are cut in general so as to display but little of the chemisette at the upper part; the lower part of the corsage is closed by richly-wrought buttons of either silk or silver. A fashion that has lately been revived, but for taffetas of one colour only, has the dress closed from the top of the corsage to the bottom of the skirt by a double row of buttons, of rather a large size; they are retained by silk cord, but those on the corsage are sufficiently apart to show the chemisette between the crossings. The upper part of the sleeve on the inside of the arm is similarly arranged, to display the white sleeve underneath. The skirt is closed from the waist. These dresses are seldom made with pointed corsages; and when the corsage is not pointed, a narrow ceinture, with a gold, silver, or steel buckle, is always worn. The manche à l'Espagnole, slashed to display the under sleeve, is coming much into vogue. Sleeves of a threequarter length, and tight, over full ones of muslin or cambric, are also a good deal in request; the bottom of the silk sleeve is always trimmed to correspond with the corsage; the under-sleeve is finished with lace.

I have no alteration to notice in the make of silk robes for the promenade or half-dress. If garnitures are adopted, they are either black lace volants, or those of the material of the dress, but many are made without any trimming. This is rarely the case with those of light materials; they still have the corsages made full, and the skirts decorated with a profusion of narrow flounces, four very deep ones, or several biais.

or en

Redingotes are quite as much as ever in vogue for public promenade dress. Those à la puri- Caps are very much adopted, both in plain taine still keep their ground, notwithstanding home and half-dress; the most novel is the the heat of the weather; they are made with bonnet papillon; it has a caul even smaller than high close corsages, and long tight sleeves. The they are generally made, crossed by a ribbon, trimming is generally in accordance with the which is attached on each side under the oreilsimplicity of the form-a row of fancy silk but-lons; they are double bands, of the material of tons down the centre of the front, or in some the cap, which I should observe is either French cases three rows of buttons, crossed by braid- | tulle, or tulle de Bruxelles; it is embroidered to ing; a quiet but very pretty style is composed correspond with the caul, and forms a rosette on of a row of brandebourgs, descending from the each side, with a full tuft of very small coques of top of the corsage to the bottom of the skirt; ribbon in the middle. Caps, formed of a single they are all of the same size as the corsage, but piece of lace, are much in favour; they are maas they descend upon the skirt they gradually nufactured expressly, either round, fanchon. If round, a lace to correspond is attached, with a little fulness at the edge, and looped at each side by a rose, or a small sprig of flowers; it forms a very pretty cap, which may be adopted in demi-toilette, or simple evening dress. Fanchons are open at the back; they are not edged with lace, but are decorated with flowers. Light materials now divide the vogue with silks for evening robes; the latter are principally taffetas and pekins; many of the former are glacé. Stripes and large patterns are the most in favour. Pompadour d'été, and pekin printanière, are extremely fashionable; and

increase in size.

:

Others of a more dressy description have the corsage open entirely down the front, but quite high at the back; these are always trimmed with a revers it may either be of the same material, scalloped at the edge, and bordered with effilé, or else it is composed of black lace, or of rich passementerie imitating lace. The sleeves are tight nearly to the bend of the arm; they widen from thence, descending in the demi-Venetian style nearly half-way to the wrist at the back, but short in front. The under-sleeve, composed of muslin or tarlatane, is richly embroidered,

Description of the Plates.

FIRST PLATE.

moire d'été is as much so as last season. Crape, DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. tulle, tarlatane, and leno, are the light materials; organdy is adopted only by young unmarried ladies. Some of the most elegant of the silk robes are composed of taffetas d'Italie, either white, light green, or blue; the corsages are low, deeply pointed, and trimmed en revers with passementerie, in imitation of blonde guipure; it is always of the colour of the dress, but with a light intermixture of gold or silver; the front of the corsage is ornamented en échelle with very narrow bands of passementerie, wrought with Very short sleeves, gold or silver, and silk. wide, and trimmed with blonde guipure in the same style as the corsage. The front of the skirt is decorated en échelle with bands of a larger size than those on the corsage; they are terminated by rich, but light tassels of silk and gold, or silver.

Robes of light materials are made with two or three skirts. Some of the most elegant of those of tarlatane have three each, decorated with three rows of narrow silver galoons, placed rather high over the border, which is festooned in cocks' combs; each is looped at the sides by a knot of silver ribbon, or a bouquet of flowers. Some pretty robes, of a more simple form, are composed of crape or leno. There are two skirts; the upper one, exceedingly long, is made with twelve casings, through which narrow ribbon is run; they are placed lengthwise, and terminated by knots with floating ends, which fall on the under skirt; it has no garniture, and is about a quarter of a yard shorter than the upper one. Ribbons are much employed in trimming evening robes of light materials; they are disposed in cockleshell wreaths, ruches, and knots.

MORNING VISITING DRESS.-French grey silk robe; a high close corsage, the front entirely covered, in the stomacher style, with passementerie, of a novel and highly-raised kind. It is continued en tablier from the bottom of the corsage down the skirt, in the form of a broken Sleeve of an easy width, terminated by cone. an open cuff, and sufficiently short to display the bouillonné at the bottom of the under-sleeve. Mancheron rather wider, arched in front of the arm, and decorated with passementerie. Fancy straw chapeau, a small, round, and rather close shape; the upper part of the crown of white taffeta, terminated by straw; the brim decorated with white taffeta ribbon, disposed en bouillonné. The garniture is a row of dents de loup of white ribbon, edged with straw at the bottom of the Sumcrown, terminated at each side by tufts of small white roses and foliage, and white brides. mer shawl of barege satiné.

DINNER DRESS.-Rose-coloured taffeta robe; corsage à la Dubarry, quite high at the back, opening in a square form on the centre of the breast, and round at the bottom. A wreath en coquille of ribbon, to correspond, encircles the back, and descends down each side of the front. A breast-knot of ribbon ornaments the opening: a ceinture of the same, disposed in narrow folds round the waist, is attached by a gold buckle, and floats in long ends over the skirt. Short silk sleeve, terminated by a triple row of coquilles. Long tulle sleeve, rather wide, and ending in two rows of bouillonné. The hair is dressed à la Dubarry, and ornamented with ribbon.

Evening coiffures are generally of hair, decoHALF-LENGTH FIGURES. rated with flowers or ribbons; a few are com- Robe of gaze posed of a round of blonde lace, with a light tuft No. 3. DEMI-TOILETTE. of the flowers of the double-blossomed peach, or else violets or forget-me-nots. Fancy jewellery is popeline; the corsage high, close, and descenda good deal in favour in evening dress, and Ro-ing in a small point, is trimmed en cœur by folds man pearls are much used to ornament ball trim- of the same material arranged in demi lozenges by fancy silk buttons; the same style of trimmings, intermingled with ribbons and flowers. ming is continued in a reverse form down the front of the skirt. Tight sleeve, of a threequarter length, over a full one of muslin; the first finished with folds and buttons. Small lace collar, closed by a fancy jewellery brooch. White poult de soie capote, a drawn moderately open shape; the interior trimmed with coques and brides of pink ribbon, the exterior with white ribbon and two long white flat feathers.

Now that the shortness of the robe in front once more allows the feet to be seen, shoes are rapidly taking place of brodequins, even in néglige. Stockings, with coloured clocks, are coming into fashion for undress; and rich openworked silk stockings have appeared in evening costume. The skirt is now just the right length in front, neither so short as to be indelicate, nor so long as to be inconvenient.

Quiet colours are most in favour for promenade robes: I mean those of plain silk; grey of various shades is greatly in vogue; iron grey, gris poussière, and gris de lin, are the shades adopted in promenade dress; pearl grey, and gris lapis, are seen in demi-toilette and in evening dress. Light shades of green, blue, oiseau, and pink are principally those adopted in both for plain silks. Rich warm hues are predominant for shaded, quadrilled, and broche silks. Light colours, especially white, for chapeaux ADRIENNE DE M. and capotes.

No. 4. OPEN CARRIAGE DRESS. - Lilac poult de soie robe; the corsage opening in a short V at the top, and descending in a rounded point; it is trimmed with a pelerine revers of English lace, and a row of ruban à la Vielle from the opening of the corsage to the bottom. Tight sleeve, descending to the elbow; lace ruffle of three falls, surmounted by ruban à la Vielle, Several rows of ribbon much broader decorate the skirt. Lilac poult de soie chapeau, a round close shape; the interior trimmed en bonnet with blonde, but plain at the sides, and lilac brides ;

END OF VOL. XXVIII.

Printed by Joseph Rogerson, 24, Norfolk-street, Strand, London.