1844 CHAPTER II BOMBAY FIRST EXPERIENCES OF INDIA Report my arrival to Adjutant-General-Receive a month's leave of absence-Caves of Elephanta-Attached to a native regiment at Sattara-Report myself to the Adjutant of 2nd Grenadiers-Introduced to the Colonel, and by him to the officers of the regimentSent to drill-Attend a Durbar-Sutteeism. BOMBAY, the seat of the Western Presidency and the commercial emporium of India, could at this time boast of little architectural beauty, the only public buildings deserving of any notice being the Cathedral, the Town Hall, Elphinstone College, and the Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy Hospital. It is, however, a cosmopolitan city, presenting a greater variety of picturesque groups and scenes than perhaps any other city, not excepting Cairo. I used greatly to enjoy a drive in the evening through the densely populated native town and "Bendy Bazaar," a living panorama, so novel and full of interest to my unaccustomed eyes. Here might be seen congregated together people of all nations, kindreds, tribes, and languages, from all parts of the globe: stout, hook-nosed Parsees, with their peculiar characteristic head-dress; mild Hindoos, of various shades and denominations, in flowing robes and turbans of varied shape and colour indicative of their respective castes; bearded Mussulmans swaggering along with supercilious air and gait; scowling, fierce-looking Arabs, with gaudy silk head-dresses, surmounted by a camelhair turban, and enveloped in the striped camel-hair cloak; fair Persians with embroidered vests and tall, conical lamb-skin caps; powerful-looking "Seedees" or Africans with their coal-black skins and thick blubber lips; Chinese with their long pigtails, high cheek-bones, and queer-looking eyes; sleepy-looking Turks in their "Tarboosh" or red fez caps; fairskinned Armenians; swarthy Jews; Portuguese padres in long black gowns; sunburnt British tars driving furiously along in hack buggies, or rolling about the streets; policemen, armed with staves, in their blue tunics and yellow turbans: these and many other tribes - Malays, Indians, Egyptians, Abyssinians, etc.-formed altogether a scene hardly to be equalled anywhere. Then there were the endless processions: now a bridal party, anon a funeral accompanied by torchbearers, and a crowd creating a fearful hubbub, increased by the clang of discordant instruments,— tom-toms, etc., so that one may form some idea of this Oriental scene. Emerging from this hideous babel and stifling atmosphere on to the esplanade, the Prado, or drive by the seashore, how truly refreshing and reviving was the sea-breeze, after a steaming, sultry day! Around the band-stand, the general rendezvous and centre of attraction, whence issued strains of operatic or martial music, would be congregated the élite and fashion of Bombay-some in carriages, others riding or walking on the green sward; officers in gay uniforms, mounted on spirited Arabs, paying their devoirs to the ladies; and troops of children attended by their copper-coloured ayahs-all these helped to give life and animation to the brilliant scene. To my taste, however, the most enjoyable time on these occasions was after sunset, when the moon had risen, and, the music stealing into your ears, you inhaled the sea-breeze and indulged in a tête-à-tête with some fair companion; or, if in a contemplative mood, you reclined in your carriage, and gave yourself up to pleasing reveries of home and absent friends. Strolling along the seashore, it was a curious and striking sight to watch the Parsees (fire-worshippers) at their devotions, with eyes fixed on the setting sun and prostrating themselves to the earth, in which position they remained some time, repeating their prayers aloud, and thus reminding one strongly of the Pharisees of old. Mussulmans may also be seen at this time kneeling on their little praying carpets, with faces turned towards Mecca, mumbling their prayers and counting their beads. I noticed also several fires close to the seaside, and was informed that these were the bodies of Hindoos being cremated, their ashes being thrown into the sea. These and similar sights cannot fail to attract the attention of everyone, and more especially a new arrival. It has often struck me that one great advantage of visiting the East is, that it enables one more fully to understand and appreciate the manners and customs, as well as the illustrations from Eastern life, which are to be met with in the Holy Scriptures. Among the lions of Bombay are the celebrated Buddhist Caves of Elephanta, situated on the island of that name, and so called from a colossal figure of that animal cut out of the solid rock and near the landing-place. It is a favourite place for picnic excursions, and in company with some friends I crossed the harbour in a bunder boat, and visited these very curious rock temples, which from their great antiquity are well worth seeing. They are divided into three compartments supported by massive pillars, on which are carved huge, hideous-looking figures of various heathen gods in very good preservation considering the many centuries which have elapsed since they were first cut. The island itself is a dense jungle, and by no means a desirable abode, being considered unhealthy. It was formerly the resort of snakes and other unpleasant animals. Having, with the assistance of my friend's native butler, completed my arrangements, and obtained a staff of the requisite number of servants, and secured also a tent, I took leave of my kind hosts, and left Bombay at the end of March for Sattara via Nagotna to join the 2nd Grenadiers, to which regiment I was attached to do duty till Berly. فاع posted or gazetted to some corps, which would not be for some months. I embarked in a bunder boat, and reached Nagotna on the evening of the same day, thence. driving by phaeton through a jungle or forest to the village of Mhar. Resuming my journey, I enjoyed a delightful moonlight drive to the foot of the Ghauts, notwithstanding being nearly upset by the furious driving of my jehu. Here I found a "Palkee" or palanquin with twelve bearers awaiting me in which to perform the ascent; but this mode of travelling uphill proved so awkward and uncomfortable that I preferred walking up the greater part of the way, and was rewarded by witnessing what seemed to me a very striking scene. In front were men carrying huge flaming torches followed by my "Palkee" borne by several swarthy, half-naked bearers, uttering a monotonous chant as they laboured up the steep ascent, each holding in his hand by way of support a long bamboo stick somewhat resembling an alpenstock; then came my servants with the baggage, the rear being brought up by more torch-bearers. It was about midnight, and as the procession wound slowly up the steep mountain path, by dark, overhanging precipices, and along the edge of deep, tigerish-looking ravines clothed in a thick jungle, the torches throwing a lurid glare around and on the dusky forms of the "Hamauls" (or bearers), the effect was weird and somewhat funereal, reminding me strongly of some similar theatrical scene I had witnessed. Arriving at the summit of the Mahabuleshwur |