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The surf at Madras often rises high during the land winds, from the opposition it meets with in rolling towards the shore; sometimes, however, it is so smooth in the mornings here, that one would think the smallest boats might land in safety. At this period too, squalls and puffs sometimes come off the land, accompanied by thunder, with such violence and rapidity, that there is no guarding against them: a very fatal instance of this kind happened to ourselves, on the night of the 29th of June, while passing Sadras. About 11 o'clock P. M. there appeared some black threatening clouds over the Sadras hills. It being then almost a calin, the top-sails were lowered on the caps, and the men sent aloft to take in a reef: they had scarcely, however, lain out on the yards, when such an irresistible gust came down from the hills, that the ship was laid almost on her beam-ends in an instant; the consequence of which was, that the fore and main top-masts, yards, men and all, were carried overboard! The helm having been put up, the ship had now gathered some way, and three men were drowned; while of those who still held on to the wreck that was dragging alongside, four

1

Fatal Accident.

1804. teen were most dreadfully mangled before we June. could get them in, though every exertion was used by the officers and men: the darkness of the night, the thunder, lightning, and deluges of rain, all conspiring to render this a dread ful scene. We were of course obliged to return to Madras, to land our wounded men and refit the ship.

Sail for China.

1804.

August.

CHAP. VII.

Sail for China-Water-spouts-Malacca-Upas TreePoisoned Kresses-Straits of Sincapore-Typhoon in the Chinese Seas-Dangerous Situation of the ShipArrive in the River Tigris-Lintin--Bocca Tigris-Consequence of killing a Chinese--Chinese Vessels-Ladrones-Singularly barbarous Custom-Excursion to Canton-Picturesque Scenery on the River Tigris -Wampoa-Junk River-Approach to Canton-European Factories.

EARLY in August we were highly gratified by receiving orders to victual for six months, and prepare to take charge of the China convoy, which was then collecting at Madras: three other men of war were added, as apprehensions were entertained that Linois might be induced once more to attack the China ships.

We weighed anchor from Madras roads, with upwards of twenty sail for the eastward. Our passage across the bay of Bengal was rather disagreeable, having strong S. W. winds, with a very heavy swell from the southward, that kept the ship constantly wet: nothing, however, occurred worth notice on this part of the voyage. Eleven days brought us to an anchor in Penang roads, where we staid collecting, and giving the necessary instructions to the convoy, till the 31st of August; when we weighed and made sail from Prince of Wales's island for Malacca. During the first seven days our progress was so small, owing to calms, contrary winds,

13.

Water-spouts.

1804. and deluges of rain, that we had only got the Sept. length of Pulo Jara and the Sambelongs; passing Poolo Dindin at the distance of four leagues. This is a very high island, and appears from the sea to form a part of the coast. On the evening of the 7th of September we came to an anchor to the southward of this island, the weather beautifully serene, and the sea smooth as glass. The next six days presented a great variety of disagreeable and unsettled weather, with frequent thunder-storms, for which these straits are remarkable. The high mountains on the Malay and Sumatran coasts attract the clouds, which pour down their contents in perfect torrents, accompanied by zig-zag and ragged lightning, that frequently does great mischief among the shipping; as one of our convoy experienced, having her masts shivered to atoms by a stroke of lightning, which did considerable injury besides, and forced her to remain at Malacca to refit.

In the course of our passage through the straits of Malacca, we had several opportunities of seeing those curious phenomena, water-spouts; some of which came occasionally so near us, and were of such a size, as to excite alarm. The following beautiful description of one, in Falconer's shipwreck, is very much exaggerated:

"While from the left approaching we descry
A liquid column tow'ring shoot on high;
Its foaming base an angry whirlwind sweeps,
Where curling billows rouse the fearful deeps!
Still round and round the fluid vortex flies,
Scatt'ring dun night and horror through the skies!
The swift volution and th' enormous train,
Let şages vers'd in nature's lore explain.

Malacca.

The horrid apparition still draws nigh,
And white with foam the whirling surges fly.
The guns were prim'd, the vessel northward veers,
Till her black batt'ry on the column bears;
The nitre fir'd, and while the dreadful sound
Convulsive shook the slumb'ring air around,
The watery volume, tow'ring to the sky,
Burst down, a dreadful deluge from on high!
Th' affrighted surge recoiling as it fell,
Rolling in hills, disclos'd th' abyss of hell!"

MALACCA.

AFTERatedious and harassing passage through the islands, rocks, and shoals, that are scattered in the wildest order through these straits, we came to an anchor on the 13th of September, in Malacca roads. This old and once important city, is now no more than a mere memento of what it once was; though even at present a very pretty place. About two centuries ago it was the principal mart for commerce in this part of the world, but has been declining ever since under the Portuguese and Dutch; nor can it be expected to revive now under the English, as Prince of Wales's island will answer all the purposes which it could serve; namely, as a place of refreshment for the China fleet. It is situated on the S. W. side of the Malay peninsula, and in the third parallel of north latitude; yet close as it is to the equator, it is blessed with the finest climate in the East Indies, the country being constantly refreshed with sea and land breezes, which, on account of the narrowness of the peninsula, render it remarkably fertile and healthy.

The town, the ruins of a fort, and a church on a little green mount to the right of the town, have a very picturesque appearance from the

.1801. Sept. 13.

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