had closed before my arrival in Naples. It is considerably larger than the two of which I have just spoken-the principal buffo, named Buonaveri, was an excellent actor as well as singer. He had lately returned from Russia, where he had amassed a large fortune. The tenor singer was Signor Mengozzi, a sweet voice, replete with science and great taste. But the delight of the Lazzaroni, and the common people in general, was Jean Cole, the famous Pulcinella. He performed twice a day in a little theatre called Saint Carlino, on the Largo di Castello. The house was always crowded; and even the King and Court frequented it, to enjoy his comic powers. Whatever Jean Cole said, was received with rapture. Once, when the King was at the theatre, he was performing in the piece, called "Pulcinella in Disgrazio,"-" Pulcinella in Disgrace;" in the midst of a dialogue with another actor, he exclaimed, "Oh, Naples! Naples! dear, dear Naples! beautiful Naples! I shall never see thee more! How happy I was in thee! My royal and gracious master, the King, used to order. maccaroni, lagrima Christi, and other dainties to be sent to me; but, alas! that is over! he has forgotten the good custom, and poor Pulcinella! oh! poor Pulcinella !" The King laughed heartily, and taking the hint, the next morning sent Jean Cole a massive silver tureen filled with maccaroni. Carlino, of the Comédie Italienne, in Paris, was an actor in Jean Cole's line, and equally celebrated and followed. He likewise performed twice a day. He had an extraordinary facility in seizing and introducing the flying gossip of the moment. report of the day always found an evening circulation through Carlino. The But I apprehend that I am wandering a little from my subject; considering the subject to be myself, that, perhaps will be forgiven: however, to return to Naples—I continued to go on attentively receiving instructions. By day I studied with avidity and ambition, but in the evening followed my own devices, or was kindly introduced by my master to families of distinction. I was honoured by the patronage of the Princess Belmonte, Princess Ghigi, the Duchess of Castel Duoro, Marchese del Vasto, Marchese St. Marca, and a long list of nobility. In their houses every evening after a little music, a Faro, or Basetta bank, was held by the proprietor of the mansion. They also played at Berabis, or Lotteria. Indeed, the whole delight of the Neapolitans, high and low, seemed to be gambling of one sort or another. The house I frequented with the greatest pleasure, was that of La Signora Moretti. She was a very charming person, and (which was not her least recommendation to me) an excellent judge of music, and a good singer and performer on the piano-forte. I frequently had the pleasure of meeting there the celebrated composer, Cimarosa, who had been the favourite scholar of my master, Finaroli. It was a great treat to hear him sing some of his comic songs, replete with humour and taste, accompanying himself. Amongst other professors frequently assembled there, I saw, one evening, Signor Di Giovanni, who many, many years afterwards, was my deputy stage-manager at the King's Theatre, and who had just then returned from Poland. About the month of July the King and Queen usually went to Posilipo, and in fine weather had concerts in the open air. To one of those I was taken by Sir William Hamilton, who did me the honour to introduce me to their Majesties as a lad from Ireland, come to study music in Naples. The first question the King asked, was, "Ne; siete Cristiano?" "I say, are you a Christian ?”—“ I hope I am, Sire," was my reply. Shortly afterwards he commanded me to sing an English song, and I put forth my strength in" By him we love offended," from the Duenna. Her Majesty then ordered an Italian air, and I sung "Ho sparso tante lagrime;" they seemed pleased, and her Majesty, after asking me with great affa bility, how I liked Naples, where I lived, who was my instructor, &c. invited me to take some ice and a glass of Maraschino. I need not say with what pleasure I obeyed the command, nor how much my young mind was elated at her Majesty's conde scension. Her Majesty had a fair complexion, and beautiful hair. It was said at Naples, that she bore a strong resemblance to her mother, Maria Theresa, Empress of Germany. I confess I did not think her particularly handsome. She had the character of a busy meddling woman, and the reputation of governing the King and kingdom completely; indeed, in all matters of business he was accustomed to refer to her, saying, "Go to the Lady, she understands affairs better than I do;" and judging by all I ever heard on the subject, he was in the right! The King was very tall, near-sighted, with very light eye-brows, and remarkably fair hair. He was very partial to theatricals, and when he went to Caserta (one of his palaces), in which there was a beautiful little theatre, he often condescended to act in burlettas with the Queen. They uniformly took the parts of the principal Buffo and Buffa; the graver and more important characters were filled by the Lords and Ladies of the Court. His Majesty was a man of excellent heart, of which the following well-known, well-authenticated fact gives proof: -- When making a tour of Italy, his brother-in-law, Joseph II. Emperor of Germany, met him at Milan. Joseph's acuteness led him to suggest many alterations in the internal government of the kingdom, most of which would have been improvements; but some of them, although very advantageous to the revenue, threatened to press somewhat hardly upon the subject. "I flatter myself I live in the hearts of my people," was the king's reply; "and I never will disturb their happiness by any thing which looks like oppression. I find in my dominions numerous natives of other countries, many poor and wretched; but in all the cities I have visited, I have neither seen nor heard of one Neapolitan in a similar situation,-a proof, as I think, that they find more comfort and encouragement in their own country than elsewhere, which illustrates the old Neapolitan proverb :-" Chi sta bene non si muova," (Those who are well should not change). Had this monarch possessed the advantages of a common education, he might have done much for his country; but it was with difficulty he could even write his name, and, consequently, he left every thing to the Queen, the Marquis Tanucci, his former and but too indulgent tutor, and the Chevalier Acton, an extremely clever man and minister, |