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“ Has he," replied Lord Lyttelton; “ then go you, you noisy dog, and pay the bride a visit ;" and, giving him a push, into the sea went the poor prating valet; he was taken up immediately, without having received any injury beyond a ducking, for which he was well repaid.

Of all the foreign cities I had ever seen, Venice appeared to be the best lighted ; to a stranger it seems to be in a general illumination; the shops are kept open until twelve o'clock at night, and most of them not shut at all; the blaze of light which they give is great, particularly those in the Piazza St. Marc and the Freseria, where all the chief milliners and haberdashers live; the taverns are also open the greater part of the night, and supper is always ready

on the shortest notice.'

It is quite common for ladies and gentlemen, after they have spent their evening at the different casinos, which many of the noble Venetians have in the Piazza St. Marc, and in which they have concerts, conversaziones, and plays, to form different parties, and adjourn to the taverns to supper. I have often been at these delightful parties : the ladies particu. larly are fond of these banquets, where good humour, mirth, and pleasantry abound: but they make it a rule, which they never in any instance deviate from, to pay their share of the bill ; nor will they allow their cicisbeos or relations to pay for them ;-nothing



would offend a Venetian lady more than any man of the party offering to pay for her upon one of their sociable expeditions. Shortly after


arrival in Venice, I delivered the letter I had from my worthy friend, General Dalton, and was received by the Countess Rosenberg with great kindness; she was a widow, and resided entirely at Venice with an only daughter. The Countess was a native of Wales ; her maiden name, as I said before, was Wynne, and she was considered by the Venetians a grand dilettante. I afterwards waited upon his Excellency Priuli, Cornaro, and the beautiful Benzoni, with my letters, and was received by them with equal affability. The Austrian Ambassador, Count Durazzo, who was an intimate friend of General Dalton's, said he should be happy to see me at his conversazione, which he held three times a week; at his house, foreigners of every nation then at Venice assembled, but no Venetian. There is a strict law or custom, that a Venetian senator or nobleman is not allowed to visit a foreign ambassador; not even are their servants permitted to have intercourse with each other, under a severe penalty. However, as I had the happiness to be a British subject, I went on amusing myself very well with the conversazioni, concerts, and suppers, and going to one theatre or another every night, having the freedom of them all: but the theatre with which I was most pleased was that of St. Angelo, where the inimitable actor, Sacchi, the speaking Harlequin, and his company performed.

There were at that time in Venice, solely for comedies, four theatres-St. Angelo, St. Cassan, St. Luke, and St. Giovan Chrisostomo; but at whichever Sacchi performed, that one was always the best attended. I saw him for the first time perform in Goldoni's comedy, called “ The Thirty-two Misfortunes of Harlequin;" he was then considerably turned of seventy years of age, but when he had his Harlequin's jacket and mask on, the vivacity of his manner and activity would have led one to suppose him not above fifty ; he was esteemed a great wit, full of bon-mot and repartee: he was allowed to have the power of applying the thoughts and sayings of the best ancient and modern writers extemporaneously, even while assuming in manner and tone the simplicity of an idiot : nothing seemed to come amiss to him, and he was justly the delight of the Venetians.

Amongst the theatrical pieces of the Venetians, the comedies of Four Masques are the most entertaining These Four Masques are - Pantaloon, who is always supposed to be a rich old Venetian merchant; an old Dottore, supposed to

; :

be an old cunning Bologna lawyer ; Harlequin and Brigella are two natives of Bergamosco, servants ; tle Brigella ought to be clever, acute, and witty,-a knavish intriguer; and the performer of this part, who is not able to retort with quickness and point upon every subject proposed, is not fit to represent the character.

The Harlequin is to represent (in appearance) a stupid, clownish fellow; but under the mask of stupidity, he should possess superlative sharpness of repartee, to answer others without hesitation, and put the most puzzling questions to the Doctor, to Pantaloon, and Brigella. It is delightful to hear good actors of those characters, particularly when they chance to be in the humour to badger each other; and as the dialogue in some of those plays (Goldom's and some of Gozzi's excepted) is spoken mostly impromptu, it is truly astonishing. Goldoni was a charming writer ; Voltaire called him the Painter of Nature; his muse was wonderfully prolific; he has written, as I have been told, above one hundred plays, and finished his dramatic career in Paris by writing, when he was upwards of seventy years of age, a comedy in the French language.

Another popular and prolific author was the one I have just mentioned, Conte Carlos Gozzi, a Venetian nobleman. I saw one of his comedies,


which had been translated into German, performed at Vienna ; it was a favourite stock piece there : indeed, at one period, Gozzi was the rival of Goldoni, and nearly beat him from the field ; he took the theatre of St. Giovan Chrisostomo, and brought forward pieces full of show and pageantry. I saw his Mostro Turchino (the Blue Monster,) Le Tre Corve, (the Three Crows), L'Uccello Belvedere (the Beautiful Bird), &c. all pieces of enchantment, performed; there was, I thought, a

I great deal of stage effect in them: but his chief dependence at that period was upon gorgeous spectacle. He appeared to go upon the old Spanish proverb, that

The eye never grows wise ;
All have eyes,
And only few have understanding.

Be that as it may, the public flocked wherever his pieces were represented ; and, for a length of time, Goldoni's regular dramas were neglected.

I had the satisfaction, many times and oft (not on the Rialto, but in the very next street to it), to dine in company with the veteran Sacchi, at the house of his Excellency Il Conte Pissani. Nothing could be to me more delightful than the innumerable stories and anecdotes with which this old man's conversation abounded; he was as

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