CASTLE OF OTRANTO.

145

occasionally the dwarf holly, the Rosa marina, and lavender, stretch around like wild moorlands. The Lake Alemenie, on the left, varies a little the monotony of this district, but nothing is seen of Otranto till we drop upon it unexpectedly.

It is a poor looking town, situate on an elevated projecting point, between two small bays, and is walled and mounted with cannon. Finding, on our arrival, that there was no inn, we sent for the British vice-consul, who lodged us in the house of an Italian marquis. We laid down our beds, which we borrowed, in a large damp and comfortless apartment, without furniture of any sort, and in another squatted ourselves around a pan of charcoal. During the nights we were disturbed, and most of us kept sleepless, by the swarms of musquitos and fleas, the room having probably not been visited by a broom, during the time of the present generation of the noble proprietors of the palace.

The celebrated castle of Otranto is an imposing object of considerable size. It owes all its reputation in England to the interesting romance of that name. I have made drawings of it from every point of view, not omitting the court yard, where the gigantic helmet appeared. The gateway is particularly splendid, and has a dignified and chivalric air, as indeed has the whole building. Some palm trees, which are opposed to the aged and crumbling walls, had a fine effect, and heightened the senti

ment inspired by the romance and the building itself.

Otranto, though a miserable place to live in, (having been lately scourged by famine,) affords some excellent subjects for the pencil, such as a Gertin would have painted upon the spot, or Blore would delineate with scrupulous accuracy. The principal church, with its round Gothic window, and some houses near it, with their brackets, balustrades, and rich friezes, are most attractive objects. We entered the church during the time of service, and saw the corpse of a man lying with his common clothes on. In the crypt below, which is very ancient, are two curious marble columns, said to have been brought from the Holy Land ; the shafts are richly covered, and have inscriptions from the Sacred Writings.

The Inquisition is not abolished in Otranto, but its pains and punishments, as in other Catholic countries, are inflicted for opinion, and not for acts of violence. The magistrates have little power. A person cannot be apprehended on suspicion of robbery or murder: this might possibly interfere with the privileges of the sanctuary of the church. Sad consternation prevailed while we were there, about some robbers that were lurking in the neighbourhood of the town. They were even seen and pointed out to our party by the governor, who took no measures to apprehend them; and more villanous

looking fellows, my friends informed me, could not be seen. When I returned to our palazzo, having separated at an early hour from my companions, my appearance was a welcome sight to the magistrates, who were consulting with my friends what steps should be taken, being apprehensive that I might have been attacked, while I was sketching the castle at some distance from the town; as it seems it was only single persons that the ruffians ventured to rob. The governor was urged strongly to have them arrested, which he promised to do, upon further consultation with his friends the clergy.

The harbour of Otranto is not so good as some of the other ports on the Adriatic, in the King of Naples' dominions, but it serves as a shelter in bad weather. Happily for us, a vessel with corn from Brindisi was compelled to put in by stress of weather, and we agreed with the Greek captain and his crew (for in the Greek vessels it is usual for each of the sailors to have a share in the ship) to take us to Corfu, whither he was bound.

Before embarking, having some time to write, I shall supply a few slight omissions which I have observed in this letter. It is not a little remarkable, that, in all the distance from Barletta to Otranto, about 130 miles, we crossed only a single paltry stream. The substratum is entirely lime, and almost wholly mixed with marine shells, the oyster, the cockle, and scallop, but none of an antediluvian de

148 COUNTRY FROM BARLETTA TO OTRANTO.

scription, like those in France, or on the Apennines. The soil is thin but rich; to make it produce as it does, the dews must be extremely heavy during the summer heats. To supply the deficiency of water, tanks, or underground reservoirs, have been built in very ancient times, and are still kept up with the most anxious care. Into these every little spring is turned, and the rain water preserved. The houses all along the coast are built of square blocks of limestone, which they procure soft and of a chalky whiteness: it forms a cement when mixed with earth, without being burned. * The country houses are all inclosed in walls, and secured with a strong gate, as a precaution against Italian robbers, or more properly against the piratical incursions of the Algerines. The roofs, for the most part, form a flat terrace, and above this a sort of watch-tower or look-out is frequently constructed.

The people are well-bred and respectful; they wear full large great-coats, and the taper-crowned hat, and were always, when we met them in the country, provided with fire-arms. We saw few women, and those very plain and unhealthy,

*We admired the beauty of many of the chimneys, espe cially in the towns; like those in Florence and Rome, the variety was without end, and often gave a consequence to the poorest dwelling.