stacles, which it is extremely difficult to surmount; and hitherto only some Paulistas, who resemble the Guanches in their dress and manner of life, have ventured like them into these vast deserts, which are rendered still more formidable by the serpents and wild beasts which inhabit them. You would perhaps suppose, my friend, that these wonderful men possess a warlike physiognomy, and athletic figures; but you would be much deceived. There is nothing about them which indicates strength or courage. Their legs have become crooked by being so much on horseback; their bodies are lean, but muscular; their arms and their breasts are covered with hair; their complexions are tawny; and the expression of countenance is nearly the same in all. They are sensible to cold, but expose themselves to the greatest heats without appearing to feel any inconvenience. They do not like towns, and they avoid their fellow creatures. The desert is their abode; and the wilder it is, the more it satisfies their love of independence. A rancho* is their only place of repose, the earth is their bed, and the carcase of a horse or an ox their pillow; they fall asleep without ever quitting their hold of the formidable laço; it is their weapon, their existence; without his laço a Guanche, however bold, is only a man; with it, he is a supernatural being.† * A thatched hut. + All the historians who have described the conquest of this country by the Spaniards, agree in saying, that the Guanches, as they passed close to the Spanish entrenchments at full gallop, carried off the sentinels with their laços. Now that I have seen these people, I can fully credit this fact. LETTER CLXI. HITHERTO I have only spoken of the Guanches, to make you acquainted with their sobriety, their address, and their instinct; I must now inform you of the courage, and gentle occupations of these extraordinary men. The deserts which they inhabit are infested by wild beasts, among which the tiger holds the first place. The most formidable enemy of the tiger is a Guanche, who with his laço never fails to overcome him. From his youth the Guanche is nursed in ideas of independence and activity. The exercise which he loves best is riding; and he piques himself on his skill in breaking in his steed. The plains through which he wanders feed an immense quantity of horses and wild mules. Along with the favourite weapon, fathers give their sons lessons of skill and intrepidity. Mounted on their well-trained coursers, they dart on a troop of wild horses, the laço is thrown, and one is caught; the others gallop off, and the captive, full of impatience, turns to recover his liberty, which is lost for ever. The Guanche is already dismounted; whirls another laço round him, which serves to strengthen the first, and throws it with skill round the legs of the captive, who falls, and must bear his conqueror. Without stirrups or bridle, merely with spurs and words of command, the Guanche masters the impatient animal, which paws the ground, and darts away like a flash of lightning. He soon stops ; indignant at his burthen, he prances and rolls in the dust, and the Guanche rolls along with him. Deceived in his expectation, he gets up fiercely, darts off again, and feels the merciless spur, till he is quite furious. He stops again, and looks round for some danger, to terrify his adversary; he hastens to it, traverses rocks, clears precipices, and swims the streams. At length, worn out with fatigue, he falls and submits to the bridle. But it is not enough that he becomes obedient, and transports his master from one country to another: he must also brave the same dangers with him, and second him in his boldest attacks. Almost every animal takes to flight at the mere sight of a tiger; and his appearance has something in it peculiarly terrific for the horse. Yet is this animal here brought to look his foe in the face, and not to run off till a certain signal is given. The Guanche sets out without the smallest supply of provisions; immense barren plains are before him, which only produce a few stalks, that serve for the nourishment of cattle. When the Guanche is hungry, he seeks after, and soon finds, innumerable herds of wild horses; he catches one of these animals, throws him down, cuts off a piece of his flesh with a knife, and restores him to liberty. He quenches his thirst at a spring; and then begins his chase after wild beasts. He calls aloud for them, and spurs on his horse towards the monster he intends for a victim. The hoarse roar of the tiger is heard, there he stands, and a terrible combat begins. It is not force, but skill, which conquers. The Guanche whirls his laço; he speaks, he calls aloud, he is ready for his enemy. His terrible enemy, with his belly almost touching the ground, is astonished to see any being awaiting his approach, and provoking him; his eyes roll furiously, he opens his vast jaws still red with the blood of his last victim; and, indignant at finding an opponent, he seeks with his eye for the place on which he means to spring. The Guanche is all the time tranquil, firm, and prudent, governing. his astonished, but obedient courser with his feet; he makes him |