abbé's heart leaped up and down like a piece of shark in a boiling pot. He went upon deck, and, affrighted by the extreme height of the waves, and the violence of the wind, he fell upon his knees. The sailors, after using their utmost efforts, perceiving that they were to no purpose, ran to the liquors and got drunk. The ecclesiastic read the fatal sentence in the faces of the terrified officers, and his tears flowed in torrents: Down on your knees!' cried he to the crew, as loud as he could bawl: ' on your knees!' and each, while at prayer, expected the vessel to founder. The storm increased in violence: Ah, father!' said the captain, in despair, Give us your blessing: we shall sup to-night with the angels !' 'God forbid!' cried the ecclesiastic for my part, I am not at all hungry!' '

Do you

think he told truth?

LETTER XVI.

Crossing the Line.

I HAVE no doubt, that if we were to investigate the cause of all the gay and burlesque ceremonies instituted since the commencement of civilization in Europe, we should find them to originate in fear or in religion. It was religion that gave rise among us to the most tumultuous festival that engages the fickle Parisians. Every body is acquainted with the History of the Nuns of Longchamps, and the motive which drew the curious to that quarter; and we see what has resulted from this habit of visiting the place, which must originally be ascribed to a religious cause.

The navigators who first crossed that imaginary line which is

called the equator, alarmed at the distance which separated them from their country, and the dangers to which their audacity exposed them, sought by vows and prayers to propitiate the favour of Heaven. In the narratives of their voyages they devoted a few lines to the record of their fears, and of the consolations which they had experienced. Their successors imitated their conduct in every thing, and especially in the moment of danger. But little reliance is to be placed on promises made at such moments; and all the good resolutions then formed vanish with the fears which gave them birth. When, therefore, the science of navigation had, by new discoveries, and voyagers, by a boldness equally astonishing, diminished apprehensions by smoothing difficulties, the prayers of mariners became less ardent, and their vows less frequent. By degrees they became accustomed to hardships, and surmounted them with greater ease and courage. As soon as they dared to suppose them less formidable, they dared to consider them as next to nothing: a thousand examples of successful hardihood strengthened their confidence. Hence the first institutions were forgotten; and hence the raillery bestowed on the imaginary fears of the first navigators. The day on which they were to cross the equator was expected with impatience. The more the dangers had been magnified, the less they seemed to dread them. This day they devoted in an especial manner to diversion, to the oblivion of their toils; and as all customs over which folly presides are more permanent than those sanctioned by reason and good sense, the consequence is, that the latter have given place to the former, and will, doubtless, subsist so long as there shall be seamen.

The importance attached to our expedition did not exempt us from the rule; and I shall proceed to give you some account of the ceremonies which marked that day on board our vessel.

On the preceding day, the movements of the sailors, who were engaged in studying their respective parts, gave us the assurance of mirth. The serenest atmosphere seemed to promise them a fine day. We were doubly pleased, both in the prospect of our own amusement, and in the likelihood that the efforts of the crew would not be disappointed.

Their costumes are prepared; folly shakes his bells from the tops, and every actor responds by a smile or a nod. How little is required to gladden the heart of the unfortunate! In the evening, while we were at our dessert, the repeated cracking of a whip announced the commencement of the ceremony. We instantly rose and went upon deck. A gruff voice, swelled by an enormous speaking-trumpet, called the captain. The officer of the watch sent to inform him that he was wanted; and M. Freycinet, previously acquainted with the routine of the ceremony, replied, in a humble and subdued tone, that he was ready to receive the envoy of his Majesty of the Line. Fresh cracks of a whip proclaimed the arrival of the messenger, who handed to the captain a letter, a model of eloquence, which his majesty's secretary had previously allowed me to read. More discreet than he was, I shall not communicate it to you; for it is always dangerous to betray the secrets of courts.

M. Freycinet read the letter, bestowed sincere praises on the writer, and asked the envoy whence he came. • From Toulon,' replied he hastily; and blushing at his blunder, he added: 'I have come a great way, and it is exceedingly hot.'-Oh! I understand you; a jug of water for the courier !'- Many thanks to your honour; if I accept any thing, it will only be something to drink.' After a slight libation, which the other actors nevertheless envied him, he gaily returned to the aërial court, carrying to his master the answer of the captain.

An abundant shower from the buckets that were in the tops

punished the sailors on deck for their curiosity, while a deluge of hail, represented by Turkey corn, was reserved for us. Our fowls and ducks, which were put that day on short allowance, were the only creatures on board that had reason to dislike the festival.

The great day at length arrived. Very early in the morning the rusty trumpets were scoured, and with their piercing din alarmed the inmates of the deep. The whips cracked; hammers struck the anvil in quick succession, and finished the crown destined for the king, and the chains for his enemies. The skins of two sheep, killed the preceding day, served for the robes of his majesty ; and his royal consort, the ugliest man among the whole crew, concealed her charms by petticoats made of five or six handkerchiefs of different colours. Two melons of unequal size, to which the amorous eyes of the monarch were wistfully directed, embellished her delicate bosom. The three-cornered hat of our indulgent chaplain covered the head of the notary; though I cannot tell why there should be notaries every where. Two asses supported the king-their parts had been warmly disputed, and they were not conferred till the candidates for them had given proofs of their capacity. Lucifer, with his crooked beak and long claws, chained and beaten with a broomstick, three feet long and two inches in diameter, strove to escape; but being prevented by the water, with which he was inundated by the priest, selected from among the least sober of the sailors, he gnawed his chains, and terrified with his roaring the daughter of the king, who threw herself on her mother's breast, and bit it with voracity. Eight armed soldiers closed the procession.

'Are you cold?' said we to the man who personated the King of the Line, on observing him shiver. No, my lads,' replied he, 'I am almost smothered in my skins; but it is customary for me to tremble.' His wife, his daughter, nay even Lucifer himself,

trembled, and we laughed among ourselves at their grotesque costume, and at this practice, which seemed still more grotesque.

All had by this time taken their places; the notary opened the fatal list, in which were inscribed the names of the profane who had not yet passed the line. An enormous tub, half full of water, to which was adapted a swing for sitting in, gave us notice that the ablutions would be frequent and serious.

In vain did the king of the line enjoin silence, which a whistle from the boatswain instantly obtained. The name of Captain Freycinet was proclaimed. He was asked if his ship had already had the honour to pass the line; and on his answer in the negative, four soldiers went up to the windlass, and with hatchets struck the mast near which it was placed. A few pieces of money, dropped by the captain, appeased the wrath of the monarch, and stopped the blows of the soldiers. What prodigies this magic metal every where performs!

The other officers came next; and each, as he answered the priest, was required to swear never to kiss a sailor's wife. To kiss was not precisely the term employed, but I substitute it for a more ticklish expression, used by the sailor-priest, to signify nearly the same thing. One of our number, by way of joke, desired the oath to be repeated to him a second time, but without pronouncing it himself, as if apprehensive lest he should break it. You run no risk,' said the too indulgent parson to him in a whisper; swear at any rate. Oaths have long been in fashion; you know what they are worth by the yard; and when there is need for it, I promise you a total absolution. Swear, to satisfy my neighbours;' added he; for my part, I am determined to continue a bachelor.'

Decorum, which must be kept up even in the least serious matters, forbade that any of us should receive the total ablution. Perhaps our liberality abated the temptation to laugh at our

PART I.

F