with Mr. Wirt, and as it is, we have a much never, even when successfully measuring strength more distinct conception of his character, than with the great Pinkney, is there the faintest apif our attention had been perpetually drawn from pearance of arrogance or conceit―on the conhim to others. The letters of these distinguish- trary, one of the most noticeable things in the ed men would have been "patches of purple," correspondence, is the unfeigned opinion that he of royal purple it is true, but still patches, inter- frequently expresses, that his success was out of fering with the delightful unity which now char- all proportion to his deserts. In this we think acterises the work, and is worth more than all he was clearly mistaken. We confess that his the adventitious splendor which could have been promotion to the bench as Chancellor in 1802, given to it. seems not to have been justified by any thing For this commendable, and doubtless somewhat either of performance or promise, that can be painful reticence, Mr. Kennedy allows himself a gathered from his history up to that time, and partial indemnity, in the freedom, or rather the think that Mr. Monroe acknowledged as much, openness, with which he expresses his own po- when in order to quiet the very natural apprelitical sentiments, as connected with the existing hensions which Mr. Wirt entertained and exparties. As witness his very positive account of pressed to him, that he was not fit for the post, the organization of parties given in the com- he said, as the best argument which he could mencement of Chapter XIV; in the justness of suggest for this purpose, that he doubted not, which account, he, of course, expects only some that the Legislature in making the appointment, to concur, and of which we would only remark, knew very well what it was doing”—a proposithat whether just or otherwise, it is needlessly tion so debateable as a general one, that Mr. introduced. We may add that the reader who Monroe would hardly have resorted to it, exfeels disposed to have a political controversy with cept in default of a better. But this one apMr. Kennedy, may find a pretty text for com-pointment excepted, we think that there cannot mentary, in the remark which he has gone out be pointed out another advance in Mr. Wirt's of his way to make on page 82, vol. 1, about the fortune which was not the fair and natural earnresolutions of '98. 66 ings of previous labors. And we believe that The life of Mr. Wirt, so distinctly presented equal talents, exerted with equal industry, would to view in these volumes, affords an example of now command success of the same sort. And propriety for which it is not easy to find a par- this is one of the great teachings of the life of allel in the lives of either professional or literary Mr. Wirt, which we are thankful to Mr. Kenmen. Though he lost his father when a mere nedy for having preserved for the youth of our child, and his mother before he was grown, kind country in his Biography. But after all, did Mr. friends took charge of him, and the clouds of Wirt accomplish all that he might have accomhis life's morning seem to have been few-upon plished? A question which we have before sughis entrance into life it was his lot to be knit to gested, without attempting the answer-nor insome of the noblest hearts, in a friendship which deed do we expect to answer it now, in any defigilded with an almost romantic delight, the whole nite way, and we call it up, only to express a of his earthly pilgrimage-in his profession he feeling that possessed us all the time we were rose rapidly and fairly, from step to step, until reading the Biography. We think that Mr. he rested upon the summit, unassailed even by Wirt's plan of life was not sufficiently compreenvy, while he declined political honors more hensive. He repeatedly says that his sole obthan once offered. Blest with a wife to whose ject was to accumulate a fortune sufficiently large rare excellence these volumes are a lasting trib-to enable him to retire from the practice of law, ute, and a family that seems to have filled the and devote the remainder of his life to Literadesires of his capacious affections, and enjoying ture, and to secure, in the event of his death, an a reputation which his modesty made him speak ample provision for his family. He even fixes of as exaggerated, at more than three score he upon the sum-one which would give him four breathed his last, in the confidence of a clear thousand dollars income, and calculates several Christian hope. Towards the close of his life, times how soon he may hope to secure it. It is he was indeed called to mourn over the death of a striking instance among the many that present some dear to his heart-but who that ever lived themselves to us, of the delusive nature of huwas exempt from trials of this sort? They ac- man expectations. Mr. Wirt possessed a praecompany our mortal state as its conditions, as tice lucrative beyond his anticipations, and yet inevitably as death brings its conclusion. Nor he died without having made any near approxidoes he seem to have been ever for a moment mation to the sole object of his efforts. When intoxicated by success-never does his affection we say that his plan of life was not sufficiently for the friends of his youth seem to be shaken-comprehensive, we are not to be understood as never is his relish for homebred joys less pure-finding any fault with him for bending his efforts to secure a fortune for the purposes he contem- |arship, his integrity, his generosity and his urplated; but to say that in our view, the legiti- banity, it is as a Christian that he is most wor mate object of life is something more than the thy to win our esteem. And this is the only feaaccumulation of wealth for any purpose. To ture of his character to which we believe full jusserve God, and to benefit our fellow-men, is the tice has not been done by Mr. Kennedy. We true summary of life's object, and while this re- have reason to know that Mr. Wirt's religious quires us to exert ourselves to make proper pro- sentiments were warm as well as deep, and that vision for our families, and is compatible with a in his latter years especially religion was a promilife devoted to literature, or any other lawful nent topic of his conversation. Indeed, his bioccupation, still it is something as an object, ographer tells us as much. But then he does distinct from the love we bear to our family, and not illustrate it, as he has done the other parts of the specific form of our occupation, and is para- his character, by his correspondence. And so mount to both, as well as distinct from them. Mr. Wirt is not presented to us, in a most imMr. Wirt is fond of dwelling, with reference to portant particular, as he really was. We feel eloquence and literary aspirations, upon that fine inclined to complain of this. Nor are we satisexpression of Cicero-aliquid vastum et immen-fied with the partial promise that is made by the sum-but how much more noble and expansive author, that he will publish in a separate volume, does it become, when we apply it to human life, a compilation of Mr. Wirt's devotional and other and with the aid of revelation, give it an appli- religious letters and writings. Many who will cation which could have had no place in the read the present volumes, will not be inclined mind of him who first uttered it. If we were perhaps to take up a book by its title page proinclined to illustrate by comparison, what we fessedly religious. And if they do, bis religious consider as the defect of Mr. Wirt's plan of life, character will not make the same impression we would compare him with one of his cotem- when exhibited separately, that it would have poraries—a correspondent whose name appears done, if occupying the same place in his biograin these volumes, and between whom and Mr. phy, that it did in his life-defending him against Wirt existed an intimacy cherished by both-a temptation, chastening his gaiety, moderating man less gifted by nature than the illustrious his ambition, sweetening his domestic delights, subject of this biography, but his equal in assid- and sustaining him in the time of heart-trials. uous labor, and one who, while living, by his Had the author done the same justice to Mr. tongue and his pen, and by means of the institu- Wirt's character in this respect that he has in tion which he founded, and since his death by others, how much would have been enhanced their resulting effects, has operated an influence the value of a book, which with this serious defar more extensive, useful and permanent, than ficiency, is, we think, likely to do more good than ever did Mr. Wirt with all his talents, aided by any of the late issues of our American press. his conspicuous station-we mean the late Dr. S. L. C. John H. Rice-would not the essential difference between the two, be covered by the difference in the view which they respectively took of the great object of life? For can we suppose it possible, that upon Mr. Wirt's plan of life, Dr. Rice could have been what he was? Let us not be understood to find fault with Mr. Wirt because he was not a doctor of divinity. All we mean is that the true ultimate object, of life, is the same for every intelligent being, and that Dr. Rice had a juster view of this object than Mr. Wirt, and that the results of their lives corresponded to this difference in their views. Nor would we have mentioned this, but that we thought it might be serviceable to some, to point out what we consider a defect in the Christian philosophy of one whose character as delineated in these pages, is, we trust, to attract the attention, and help to form the minds and mould the principles of many young men in our land. Still less let it be supposed that we would depreciate the Christian character of Mr. Wirt. Much as he is to be admired for his eloquence, his schol VOL. XVI-27 SONG. From "The Pilgrims," an Unpublished Poem. 1. The hand so often clasped in mine Which oft I've press'd with pride;— 2. Yet why should I repine when Death CONSERVATIVE COOKERY.* |tractions scarcely less seducing than those of a certain Florence* of our time, whose refined cookery and marble halls are daily sought after by many pilgrims. But subsequently the noble We sit down to discuss a volume of M. Soyer science fell into less worthy hands; an age of meas the undergraduate rises to address an assem- diæval darkness supervened when the little learnblage of professors and doctors of divinity; that ing that still remained on the subject was locked is to say, with an unaffected sense of our own in- up in the cloistered kitchens of great Kings and capacity, and an overwhelming conviction of the fortunate clubs, until towards the beginning of the magnitude and difficulty of the task. Monsieur present century there was so much of fraud in the Alexis Soyer is one of those bold and successful ministrations of the table that a cook and a charlareformers, who come forward at certain epochs tan were regarded as convertible terms. The deof the world's history to correct existing abuses ceptions that were every day practised were inand harmonize the discordant elements of soci- deed astounding. At length, the late Frederick ety, and is therefore entitled to the most respect- Accum, subjecting the condiments in use to ful consideration of the reviewer and the rest of the test of the retort and crucible, brought formankind. All indeed must look with satisfaction ward his memorable "Treatise on the Adulupon the picture of a man, who, after many years terations of Food," in which he showed to an asof unremitting devotion to the best interests of tonished world that they had been unconsciously his race, having caused the light of science to ir- swallowing poison in every solid and imbibing a radiate the kitchen, and shed abroad therein the dangerous potion in every vinous draught—diineffable aroma of his matchless compositions, ning on drugs and "supping full of horrors”—for enters upon a serene old age, unembittered by a long succession of years. The effect of this any remorseful souvenir of an overdone fowl or discovery was not at first favorable to investigaan ill-flavoured potage,―an Israelite in whom tions in gastronomy. It was indeed generally there is no guile, a Frenchman innocent of all admitted that such things were very monstrous; revolutions save the revolutions of the spit. confidence was shaken in all edibles, animal and Cookery as a philosophical study has been but vegetable; and men truly thought that “weal imperfectly understood until within a compara- pie" was only good, as the younger Mr. Weller tively recent period. Lucullus, though much re- has since told us, "ven they knew the lady as puted as an amateur, was at best, we suspect, a made it, and were quite certain it wasn't kitpretender, and his banquets were but small pota- tens" : but by far the larger portion, looking upon toes to the triumphs of modern civilisation. The the evil as altogether remediless and heartily dis“Dinner after the manner of the ancients" which gusted with the revelations with which Mr. AcSmollett has served up for us, will convey some cum had made them acquainted, stopped their idea of the old Roman cana, and it has been well ears to the voice of complaint, and went on eatsaid that "the melody of Homer's verse can ing the deleterious aliments, concluding with the hardly reconcile us to the cookery of his coun- poet that where ignorance was the only bliss, it trymen, described in his flowing hexameters."+ was indeed folly to be wise. The greatest of English monarchs was a bad Then came a re-action. The first sentiment cook, if the story of the burnt cakes is to be re- of disgust having worn off, Mr. Accum's suggesceived as anything more than a myth. In later tions began to be acted upon, and cookery came times there were proficients in the art, and we home once more if not to men's business and read in Madame Sevigné the sad fortune of le bosoms, atleast to their sensibilities and stomachs. grand Vatel, the chef de cuisine of Louis XIV. The literature of the larder was enriched by conand the Cato of his age, who fell upon his sword, tributions of a most profound and learned charunwilling to survive the disaster of a dinner that acter. M. Grimod de la Reynière had, it is true, was wanting in marée. The magnificent Medici, already produced his Almanach des Gourmands, too, giving to the examination of dishes a share but more practical works, such as the French Cook of that elegant leisure which achieved such glo- of Eustache Ude, the Cook's Oracle of Kitcherious results in the encouragement of painting ner and the Spirit of Cookery of König, and and sculpture, had invested Florence with at *THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE or Ménagère. Comprising nearly One Thousand receipts for the Economic and Judicious preparation of every meal of the day, &c., &c. By Alexis Soyer. Author of "the Gastronomic Regenerator." Edited by an American Housekeeper. New York: D. Appleton & Company, 200 Broadway, 1850. + Encyclopædia Americana. more philosophical ones, such as Brillat Savarin's, were the result of Accum's exposé. It is to be observed that although Accum was an Englishman, the revival of cookery was commenced, and was prosecuted with greatest vigor on the *Corner of Broadway and Walker Street. + Geist der Kochkunst, von König, herausgegeben von C. F. Von Rumohr, Stuttgard, 1822. The fall of an apple, it is well known, suggest continent. England seemed still in the melan- artistic effect, Monsieur Soyer may point as aucholy condition so pithily described by the Gallic thority for sudden and startling contrasts, to the Ambassador at the court of Queen Anne, who canvass of Rembrandt. complained that they had sent him to a country possessing twenty-four religious sects and only ed to Newton the law of gravitation. A chance two fish-sauces, while France, full of a culinary enthusiasm, seemed determined to demonstrate the old sentiment of her comedy, Tout s'arrange en dinant dans le siécle où nous sommes, visit of Eloise L. to Hortense B. one fine morning during last year originated the 66 Modern Housewife." Had Newton reclined beneath any other than a pomiferous tree, the world might have remained to this day in ignorance of the gravitating principle. Had the chance visit not The first remark, then, that we have to make taken place as aforesaid, we should have been of M. Soyer's Ménagère (and we are glad to get without "nearly one thousand receipts for the at our text after so long an exordium) is that it is economic and judicious preparation of every an English book, though boasting French pater-meal of the day." Upon what slight threads nity. Monsieur Soyer is the presiding genius hang the moral and physical destinies of manover the turtle and venison of one of the most kind! But the reflection is too painful to be pursumptuous of the Loudon Club Houses, and has sued farther. We might proceed to narrate what to deal with good-livers to whom "the roast beef transpired during Eloise's visit, but we deem it of Old England" is as necessary as their daily quite sufficient to say that the conversation was bread. To treat of this famous article of food in of such a nature that about an hour after it took the language of Jean Crapeau, would have been place "Mrs. L. might be seen entering her cota manifest impropriety; so the "Modern House- tage at Oatlands, fully resolved to follow as closely wife" is written in English. Add to this that the as possible the economical management of Mrs. copy before us is edited "by an American House- B., but a little reflection soon made her perceive keeper," and we have the striking fact presented that she possessed only the theory, and was sadto us of the combined influences of French, Eng-ly deficient in the practice." To remedy this delish and American taste acting upon and form- ficiency, she wrote (and here begins the delighting a work that is destined to outlive a large pro-ful correspondence to which we have adverted) portion of the publications of the day. Thus may it ever be. And when another feast of animals shall occur, may the lion, the cock and the eagle vie with each other in friendly emulation, as at pic-nics in the country, as to who shall contribute the most acceptable offering. begging her friend to send her a few receipts. Mrs. B., "a creature not too bright and good for human nature's daily food," was able to comply with the request, for "her parents, very wisely considering household knowledge to be of the greater importance, made her first acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano." She replied promptly, under date of "Jan. 3d. 1849" from "Bifrons Villa," "I agree, with the greatest pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea." The receipts accordingly came to the number of nearly a thousand. It is not our purpose to lay any of these follow our author in those pleasing meditations wherewith, under the ingenious fiction of Hortense, he introduces some of the most important subjects of pabular interest. If we venture at times to interweave some remarks of our own, having direct bearing on local dishes, the patient reader, we trust, will not complain. The Ménagère, considered as a literary composition, has the advantage of setting before the reader the most charming variety of contents that we recollect ever to have seen. The versatility of the author is without precedent. From turkey to truffles, from grave to gay, he passes with equal grace and rapidity. He writes in prose, yet occasionally rises into the higher regions of before the reader. We shall however delight to poetry; and it would seem that he is as familiar with the hidden workings of the human heart, as of the human stomach. At one time a didactic essayist, and at another a dramatic sketcher, he earries every point by a judicious intermixture of the useful and the entertaining. Here a tender sentiment touches us deeply; there we are taught "how to dress salmon in slices from an inch to By way of exhibiting the happy manner in two inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of which M. Soyer brings one branch of human salt water about twenty minutes." Now we are learning to support another, thus establishing the beguiled with a sweet correspondence between harmony and connection of the sciences, we "cette chére Eloise" and "my dear Hortense." quote his prefatory remarks on "Sauces." and now we are reluctantly forced to part with Grammar and gastronomy, it will be seen prethese amiable ladies to be ushered into the mighty sents a parallel, as pleasing as it is apparent. presence of the "Reform Club." If it be said The higher range of music also comes in to eluthat such transitions are too violent for proper cidate his propositions. "Sauces in cookery are like the first rudiments empirics have heretofore given for preparing cerof grammar, which consists of certain rules called tain dishes. For example, she considers, with Syntax, which is the foundation of all languages: some truth we confess, that it might be inconvethese fundamental rules are nine, so has cookery nient to construe strictly the following from an the same number of sauces, which are the foun "First choose your head as thick and fat as you can, then plunge it in two gallons of water, which must be nearly boiling in a pan on the fire; let your head remain about ten minutes, then take it out by the ears, &c. &c." dation of all others; but these, like its prototype old French work. It is a receipt for a “Téte de the grammar, have two-brown and white, Veau à la poulette," that is, a calf's head with which bear a resemblance to the noun and verb, white sauce:as they are the first and most easily learnt, and most constantly in use; the others are the adjuncts, pronouns, adverbs and interjections; upon the proper use of the two principal ones depends the quality of all others, and the proper making of which tends to the enjoyment of the dinner; for to my fancy they are to cookery what the gamut is in the composition of music, as it by the arrangement of the notes that harmony is produced, so should the ingredients in the sauce be so nicely blended and that delightful concord should exist, which would equally delight the palate, as a masterpiece of a Mozart or a Rossini should delight the ear, but which, if badly executed, tantalize those nervous organs, affect the whole system, aud prove a nuisance instead of a pleasure." For "Pied de Veau au naturel," Calves' Feet, natural way, the same work gives this receipt. "Choose fine feet in the rough state, and, your as with your head, place a pan of water on the fire; when hot, but not too much so, put your feet in the water for about ten minutes, try if you can easily clean them as your head with a knife, if not, add a spoonful of salt in the water, and let them remain a few minutes longer; then scrape After this learned exposition, we are not sur-like your head; when well cleaned wipe them prised to fall upon a receipt for a sauce à la dry, and they are ready for dressing, which may Mephistopheles. Our author has read Goethe, be done in almost twenty different ways. (See and overflowing with gratitude on account of the delight afforded him by that masterly poet, most becomingly determines to immortalize his finest creation by bestowing its name upon a sauce! Faust is now indeed imperishable. The history of this most exquisite conception (we mean the Mephistophelian Sauce,) unfolds the ingenuity of a mind fertile in resources when pushed to an extremity. It is given in a few words. "Do not be afraid of the title, for it has nothing diabolical about it: the first time I tried it was at Mr. B.'s birthday party, and some of his friends having over and over again drank his health, till he had hardly any health left to carry him to the drawing-room, where the coffee was waiting, about eleven o'clock, having asked for some auchovy sandwiches, but, from a mistake, not having any in the house, I composed this ravigotante sauce, which partly brought them back to their senses." the series How to cook Pigs' Feet.) When the big bone, surround them with sausage-meat: your feet are tender, set them on a dish, take out wrap them up in caul, and form a heart with them; then place your feet on a gridiron, let them gently broil, and when done, eat them for breakfast or luncheon." "After which," says our author in the person of the engaging Hortense, "a gentle walk might give you an appetite for dinner." We should think it might. It is one of the most commendable features of the Ménagère that it teaches practical lessons to the million and is not designed (as was the “Gastronomic Regenerator") only for the chosen few who eat out of Sevres ware and frequent the sweet shady side of Pall Mall." We have called the author a reformer; we did not mean merely cook of the Reform Club. He has rightly set forth in the title-page that the receipts are given for "the economic preparation of every meal of the The sentence is a little obscure, from M. Soy- day," and we have entitled our remarks upon er's having forsaken, for a moment, his gram- the work "Conservative Cookery," in recognimatical propriety, but it is clear enough to sug- tion of the fact. It rejoices us, too, that we may gest a capital subject for Retzesh. What acces add in his praise that he is eminently humane and sories are here. A party of gentlemen are drunk. | kind-hearted, and that he does not hesitate to Coffee and the ladies await them in the drawing-condemn all culinary cruelties that are practised Their legs refuse the office of nature. in honor of Epicurus. He gives directions how M. Soyer in the person of Mephistopheles hovers fowls may be most readily and mercifully disover their symposium; in the frenzy of inspiration, composes the sauce which is to restore their scattered wits; and exults in the prospect of a partial success. room. In one of her letters, a little farther on, Hortense cautions her young elève against too has patched. He lends the weight of his authority also against the paté de foie gras, of which every body has heard, even while he acknowledges the delicacy of that noted viand. Treating of poultry he laments that "We are not contented with the beautiful tily adopting the careless directions which some qualities which Nature gives this species, but, |