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HOW THE DUTCH ENJOY THEMSELVES.

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alike, seemed happy. Not a frown marred the gaiety and gladness of the hour. Thus they chatted and laughed merrily, while the sunset gilded the heavens, and the fine military band poured forth stirring strains upon the evening air. Seldom have I looked upon a scene of more simple, honest, heartfelt happiness.

These Dutch girls are true daughters of Eve, as full of archness and coquetry as their sisters of sunnier climes. Indeed they have one cunning contrivance which I have not yet seen elsewhere, and which seems to be designed as an aid to all distressed lovers-an art of flirtation made easy. It is a little double faced mirror hung out of the window at such an angle as to reflect every figure passing in the street. Here the little witch may sit hidden, and while appearing very industrious in sewing, or absorbed in a book, can keep watch of every handsome face that passes by her enchanted castle. And if-if, you knowa gay gallant, walking on the pavement, in a fit of abstraction, should stop a moment and kiss his hand, nobody can box the little minx's ears, because she looks up from her book just in time to see it.

Womanly vanity and fashion exist all over the world. But they sometimes show themselves in strange ways. We for example should not think a pretty face improved by two gold spoons branching out from behind the ears, and covering the temples like blinders. Yet such is the fashion with Dutch country lasses, who wish to set off their charms. No doubt a rosy Dutch face, round as a dump

ling, and thus embossed with gold, does look all the prettier in the fond lover's eyes.

Take all these things together-the friendly manners, the solid comfort, the freedom and independence-and it must be confessed that Holland combines, in a high degree, all the elements of prosperity and happiness. Relatively, its power is not so great as it was two hundred years ago, for England has advanced with such gigantic strides as to have far outstripped her ancient rival. But the country is still rich in the natural elements of wealth, and the people are industrious and happy. And what charms a stranger is the air of universal contentment and the kind and friendly feeling which seems to pervade all classes. The very houses seem to be on good terms with each other, and as they lean their heads together across the street, they seem to be talking in a friendly manner with their neighbors over the way. Even the storks seem to be on the best terms with the people, as they walk about on the roofs of the houses, with none to molest them, and occasionally put their long necks down the chimneys, as if to whisper confidentially to the family below. Thus the Dutch have learned the good rule to "live and let live." They know how to enjoy life without envying or troubling their neighbors. For all these things I like the Dutch. I like their queer, quaint old towns. I like their simple manners, and their honest, friendly ways. They are not as proud as the English, nor as ambitious of glory

THEIR CHARACTER.

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as the French, but they are a people less corrupted than either-simple, virtuous, and brave, that dwell contented in their own land, that love their homes, their wives and children, their country, and their God. And perhaps this small kingdom contains as little poverty and ignorance, and comprises as much material comfort, as much intelligence, as much virtue, and as much real happiness, as can be found in any equal space on the surface of the globe.

CHAPTER IX.

LEAVING HOLLAND-HANOVer and the GEORGES-HAMBURG-BEAUTY OF THE CITY-ITS COMMERCE.

HAMBURG, July 20th, 1858.

Ir was a long stretch from Amsterdam to Hamburg, but as we were bound for the north of Europe, we must needs pass this way. The most direct route is by sea, and steamers make the voyage every week. But there is also a way of getting here by railroad, which indeed compels a detour through Germany, but in this case, as in many others, "the longest way round is the shortest way home." So we decided to keep to the land. Mine host of the inn at Amsterdam, who was a round and rosy cheeked man, the very image of good cheer and of Dutch hospitality, shook us warmly by the hand, and wished us all manner of blessings on our journey; and the carriage soon took us beyond the city gates, and the cars whirled us away from the land of dikes and canals.

When Voltaire bade good bye to Holland, he left as usual a stinging sarcasm behind him: "Adieu, canaux, canards, canaille!" The old sinner! I hate him, thus to speak of his betters. But we were quite sad to part

LEAVING HOLLAND.

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from Holland so soon, for though we had been in it but a few days, yet we had come to feel at home among these good natured and honest Dutchmen. Byron says that

"Even in leaving the most unpleasant places and people,

One cannot help turning back and looking at the steeple."

Might we not then linger in a country where we had experienced only kindness, and look up to every windmill as a friend, and imagine as we flew past them on the road, that their long arms were waving us a benevolent adieu? Thus, pleased with what we had seen and experienced, and bearing away happy memories of the country and its people, we went skimming over the plains of Holland, past Utrecht, where, in 1713, after the war of the Spanish Succession, the great powers of Europe at last solemnly agreed to be at peace; and past Arnheim, till we entered the valley of the Rhine, and at length crossed the frontier of Prussia. At Oberhausen we struck upon the great central line of railway which runs through the heart of Germany from Cologne to Berlin, and which brought us at midnight to the old town of Hanover. It was Saturday night, and we welcomed the quiet of this inland town as promising us a calm and tranquil day of rest. But even here we could not find an American Sabbath. Our hotel was on a public square near the railway station, and the next day we were compelled to hear the noise of trains which went thundering

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