of connoiffeurs were agreed in opinion, and I should most readily fubmit mine to theirs! But while the above eulogium ftill refounded in my ears, other connoiffeurs have afferted, that this picture is full of affectation; that the fhadowing is of a dirty brown, the attitude of the Magdalen constrained and unnatural; that she may ftrive to the end of time without ever being able to kiss the foot of the infant Jefus in her present pofition; that fhe has the look of an ideot; and that the Virgin herself is but a vulgar figure, and feems not a great deal wifer; that the angels have a ridiculous fimper, and moft abominable air of affectation; and finally, that St. Jerom has the appearance of a sturdy beggar, who intrudes his brawny figure where it has no right to be.

Distracted with fuch oppofite fentiments, what can a plain man do, who has no great reliance on his own judgment, and wishes to give offence to neither party? I fhall leave the picture as I found it, to answer

for itself, with a fingle remark in favour of the angels. I cannot take upon me to fay how the real angels of heaven look; but I certainly have feen fome earthly angels, of my acquaintance, affume the fimper and air of those in this picture, when they wished to appear quite celeftial.

The duchies of Modena, Parma, and Placentia, are exceedingly fertile. The foil is naturally rich, and the climate being moifter here than in many other parts of Italy, produces more plentiful pafturage for cattle. The road runs over a continued plain, among meadows and corn fields, divided by rows of trees, from whofe branches the vines hang in beautiful festoons. We had the pleasure of thinking, as we drove along, that the peasants are not deprived of the bleffings of the smiling fertility among which they live. They had in general a neat, contented, and cheerful appearance. The women are fuccefffully attentive to the ornaments of drefs,

which is never the cafe amidst oppreffive

poverty.

Notwithstanding the fertility of the country around it, the town of Placentia itfelf is but thinly inhabited, and feems to be in a state of decay. What firft ftrike a stranger on entering this city, are two equestrian ftatues, in bronze, by Giovanni di Bologna; they ftand in the principal fquare, before the Town-house. The best of the two reprefents that confummate general Alexander Farnefe, Duke of Parma and Placentia, who commanded the army of Philip II. in the Netherlands. The infcription on the pedestal mentions his having relieved the city of Paris, when called to the affiftance of the League into France, where his great military fkill, and cool intrepidity, enabled him to baffle all the ardent impetuofity of the gallant Henry. He was certainly worthy of a better master, and of ferving in a better cause, We cannot, without regret, behold a Prince, of

the Duke of Parma's talents and character, fupporting the pride of an unrelenting ty rant, and the rancour of furious fanatics.

Except the Ducal Palace, and fome pictures in the churches, which I dare swear you will cordially forgive me for paffing over undescribed, I believe there is not a great deal in this city worthy of attention; at all events I can fay little about them, as we remained here only a few hours during the heat of the day, and fet out the fame evening for Milan.

LETTER LXXVIII.

Milan.

M

ILAN, the ancient capital of Lombardy, is the largest city in Italy, except Rome; but though it is thought rather to exceed Naples in fize, it does not contain above one-half the number of inhabitants.

The cathedral ftands in the centre of the city, and, after St. Peter's, is the most confiderable building in Italy. It ought by this time to be the largest in the world, if what they tell us be true, that it is near four hundred years fince it was begun, and that there has been a confiderable number of men daily employed in completing it ever fince; but as the injuries which time does to the ancient parts of the fabric keep them in conftant employment, without the poffibility of their work being ever completed,

5