THE COURT MAGAZINE. FASHIONS FOR THE MONTH OF December, 1833. EXPLANATION OF THE ENGRAVINGS OF THE plain high corsage, adorned down the centre FASHIONS. EVENING DRESS. The A CRAPE robe of the palest shade of French grey over satin to correspond. Corsage à la Montespan, cut quite low and square at the top, and trimmed with a lappel square behind, cleft upon the shoulders, and pointed on the bosom. The bottom of the body is also pointed, and the sides and centre of it and of the lappel are marked by an embroidery in white silk of a Grecian pattern. lappel and the bottom of the corsage are bordered with white blond lace. Short full sleeves. The upper edge of the hem is embroidered to correspond. The hair is divided on the forehead, and arranged partly in a low knot at the back of the head, and partly in a platted braid on each side, which is looped by gold agraffes to a bandeau of pearls and emeralds, so as to hang double, but not very low, at each side of the face. A sprig of gold flowers is placed above the bandeau on the left side. Gold earrings of the lozenge form, with an emerald in the centre of each drop. Necklace, pearls and emeralds. Black knitted silk gloves. Black satin shoes. MORNING DRESS. It is composed of Cashmere, a black ground flowered in large bouquets of vivid colours. Corsage made to fit close to the shape, quite high behind, but displaying a little of the front of the neck. Gigot sleeves. Collerette composed of a triple row of cambric, disposed in round plaits. The hair is parted on the forehead, and arranged behind in a full knot by a band of riband, the ends of the knot curled in ringlets fall over the back of the head. CARRIAGE DRESS. of the front with white fancy silk trimming, of a broken cone. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON FASHIONS MANTLES have been introduced very early this season, and we see already several silk and satin ones trimmed with sable fur. They are not, however, so numerous as those bordered with broad bias bands of velvet to correspond, cut at one edge in dents of different forms. Several novelties have appeared in Cashmere mantles; some of them are beautiful, but the colours and patterns of the greater number are too glaring. We may cite as the most elegant that have yet appeared, those with black or very dark bottlegreen grounds, printed in zigzag stripes of border to the pelerine, hanging sleeves, and gold colour; or geranium, with an Egyptian bottom of the mantle. Hanging sleeves, of observe also that several mantles are made a large size, are generally adopted. We with ceintures, and some have a large velvet pelerine, with ends descending to the knee. Black real lace is employed to trim a good many Cashmere mantles. These latter have the collars attached by cords and tassels instead of clasps. Velvet mantelets, lined with coloured gros A pelisse robe of lilac gros des Indes, a de Naples, and trimmed with black lace, are f also very fashionable. This is a mode revived after a lapse of thirty years, and without any alteration in the form. Velvet hats and bonnets begin to be very numerous, and the brims are decidedly larger, particularly at the sides of the face. They continue to be made wide across the forehead, and standing back. The most elegant morning bonnets are those composed of plain black velvet, trimmed with black satin riband, and a half veil of black real lace. Several half-dress hats are trimmed with small compact bouquets of flowers, attached on one side by a knot of rich figured riband. A mixture of black and orange, or carrot colour, is still very fashionable. Plumes panachées are coming into favour for half-dress hats, and are likely to be very fashionable during the winter. A very pretty chapeau, trimmed with them, is composed of black satin: the material is laid on the crown in regular plaits. A bouquet of feathers, black at the bottom, and green from the middle of the feather to the tip, is attached on one side by a knot of black satin riband, spotted with green. The other, composed of scabieuse velvet, is trimmed with a long rose-coloured feather tipped with scabieuse, the beards thickened towards the ends, and knotted in rings. Dinner dresses are of the half high pelisse form, they are made with corsages in crossed drapery, rising a little above the shoulder, but leaving the throat and part of the neck uncovered. Satin and rich silk are the materials most in favour for these dresses. Some have been recently ordered of levantine, which it is said will be very fashionable this winter; but in conformity to the present taste for rich materials, it is to be of a stouter fabric than that which was so much admired several years ago. Hats and turbans are both fashionable in dinner dress; caps are less so, but they are partially adopted. The first are of velvet or crape of a small size, and trimmed either with flowers or a single ostrich feather. Some have the crown partially covered with a blond lace drapery, which, descending through an opening on each side of the brim, forms floating brides; they have a very elegant effect. Turbans are of gauze or crape, they are trimmed with aigrettes, or membranes of the plumage of birds of Paradise. Those of the Turkish førm are in majority. The only observation we have to make on caps is, that they have diminished in size. Fashionable colours are those we cited last month, with the addition of grey and carrot colour. COSTUME OF PARIS. BY A PARISIAN Mantles and shawls are both in favour for the promenade. The most elegant of the former are in velvet, satin, and tissu Bragance. There also several of Cashmere wool woven in patterns that are alike on both sides. These last are made with velvet pelerines which are either cut in dents de loup, or edged with a piping of black satin. Several Cashmere mantles are lined with grey squir rel fur, and a few are bordered with swans' down. Fur trimmings are not, however, as yet generally adopted, but muffs and tippets form an indispensable part of promenade dress. Sable is the only fashionable fur for married ladies; but most unmarried ones wear grey squirrel back. Boas are only partially adopted, fur pelerines being more fashionable at present, it is thought that they will supersede boas before the end of the winter. Cashmere shawls are those most generally adopted, except for the undress morning walk, for which very ample square ones of Thibet wool, of large plaided patterns in showy colours, are in request. In some instances they are made into mantles. This fashion will be transient, for it is in very bad taste. Velours épenglé lined with plain satin is very much in favour for bonnets. We see also several composed entirely of rosecoloured satin, and ornamented with a knot of gauze riband, in which is inserted a bouquet of Provence roses. The edge of the brim may be trimmed according to the fancy of the wearer, with a black or white blond lace veil, but one of English point lace is considered much more distingué. A mixture of black and orange is still fashionable, but not so much so as black and green. Several of the new hats are composed of green satin, and lined with black velvet. Some are trimmed with flowers of various hues, others with ribands only, in which the two colours are mingled. Little change has taken place in the forms of robes for evening dress; some have the corsages round, but in general they are pointed at the bottom, the point brought low, and the waist long; the bosom is draped horizontally, or in the demi-cœur stile. The sleeves, if short, very ample, and of the double sabot form; if long, they are generally ornamented at the bottom with a fancy cuff. As to the width of the skirts it has rather increased, and is really preposterous. The bodies of dresses are cut a little higher at the top, and it is supposed that those rounded at the bottom will soon be worn only in morning or promenade dress, for costumes à l'antique are still more fashionable for evening parties than they were last season. They are adopted not only in form but material for ball dresses, several of which have lately been made of rich silk, sprigged, or striped with gold or silver. Some robes have also appeared in figured silks, the patterns of which were perfectly antique; it is true that comparatively few have been worn as dancing dresses, but it has been remarked that those few were seen on leaders of the fashion at the late court balls. Several dresses were of black tulle, embroidered in bouquets or wreaths of flowers in different coloured silks, and worn over black satin. This style is really very elegant, though not, in our opinion, appropriate to ball dress; it is supposed it will be fashionable during the winter. The coiffures were mostly those adopted in Louis XIV.'s reign. The majority were à la Valois and à la Montespan; they were ornamented with flowers. Very few diamonds were seen in head-dresses, and those only on English ladies. A few coiffures, copied from antique statues, and ornamented with pearls, were very much admired.— Fashionable colours are the same as last month. LITERARY INTELLIGENCE. "Forty Years' Residence in America; or, the Doctrine of a particular Providence exemplified in the life of Grant Thorburn, Seedsman of New York." MR. D. BOIELEAU has in the Press-"A few Remarks upon Mr. Hayward's Prose translation of GOETHE'S FAUST," with additional Observations on the difficulty of translating German works in general. "The British Cyclopaedia of Natural History" is preparing for immediate publication, with engravings by Landseer. In the press by Mr. Montgomery Martin, the first volume "(Asia)," of a national work on the Colonies of the British Empire. The Story without an End," translated from the German, by Sarah Austin, with wood engrav ings from the designs of Harvey. "Rockwood," a romance in 3 vols. "The Baboo, or Life in India," sketching the manners and modes of life among the higher and middle ranks of society in the East "The Dark Lady of Doonah," a high romance, by the author of Wild Sports of the West," &c. A new "Novel," by the author of "Sayings and Doings," &c. Among the memoirs in the forthcoming "Annual Biography and Obituary," are those of Lord Exmouth; Sir George Dallas, Bart.; Sir John Malcolm; Earl Fitzwilliam; Lord Dover; Sir Henry Blackwood; W. Wilberforce, Esq.; Sir E. G. Colpoys; Capt. Lyon, R. N.; Rajah Rammohun Roy; Admiral Boys; J. Heriot, Esq. (Comptroller of Chelsea Hospital); Mr. Samuel Drew, &c. "Olympia Morata, her Times, Life, and Writings," by the author of "Selwyn." |