A

CLASSICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL

TOUR

THROUGH

GREECE,

DURING THE YEARS 1801, 1805, AND 1806.

BY EDWARD DODWELL, ESQ. F. S. A.

AND MEMBER OF SEVERAL FOREIGN ACADEMIES.

Πολλα μεν δη και αλλα ιδοι τις αν Ελλησι, τα δε και ακουσαι θαυματος αξία.

PAUSAN. b. 5. c. 10.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR RODWELL AND MARTIN,

NEW BOND-STREET.

CONTENTS

ΤΟ

VOL. I.

CHAPTER I.

Preparations for our voyage to Greece-Departure from Venice-Driven back by unfavourable

winds-Second departure-View of the Istrian coast, Pola, Fiume, islands of Cherso, Veglia,

Arbo, Ossero, Unia, the Canigule-Number and state of the Dalmatian islands, Salve, Premuda,

Morlachian mountains, islands of St. Pietro, Ista, Grebani, Pago, Pontedura, Melada, Tre

Sorelle, Isola Grossa, Scorda, Veglia, Pasmani-Town of Zara, islands Morter, Coronata, Zuri,

Rachen, Solta, Trau, Bua, Bratsa, Nirenta, Lissa, Melisello, Sant' Andrea-Lessina-Descrip-

tion of the town and island-Festival of St. Prospero-Islands Torcola, Curzola, peninsula of

Sabioncello, and promontory of Lavischchi; island of Meleda, Ragusa; islands Mezzo, Sant'

Andrea, Bocca di Cattaro, Queen Teuta-Town of Cattaro, Monte Negro, and its inhabitants

-Towns of Croja, Durazzo, Polina, Acroceraunian mountains; ignited hydrogen; the Lin-

guetta-Town of Valona; other cities on the coast-Arrival at Corfu-Revolution and murder

of some Greeks and Turks-Visit to the Capigi Baschy, to the Seraskier, and to the President

of the Republic
Page 1

CHAPTER II.

Compendium of the history of Corcyra-Small islands near it-Villages-Produce-Departure from

Corfu Islands of Paxos and Antipaxos-Town of Parga-Arrival at Santa Maura-Ruins of

Leucas-Lover's Leap-Villages-Produce-Town of Prebeza-Ruins of Nicopolis-Ambra-

cian gulf-Departure from Santa Maura-Manner in which the pirates treat their prisoners-

Taphian, or Teleboian islands-Ithaca-Villages-Ports-Produce-Mountains-Ruins of a

castle and city-Other ruins-Fount Arethusa-Medals of Ithaca-Albanian robbers-Island

of Cephallenia-End of my first tour in this part of Greece

Page 32

CHAPTER III.

Beginning of my second tour-Sail from Messina-Coast of Calabria-First view of Greece-Arrival

at the island of Zakunthos-Population-Villages-Manufactures-Produce-Bituminous

springs-Corruption of names by the Italians-Dimensions of the island-Panorama from

Mount Elatos-Departure from Zakunthos-Eleian coast-Arrival at Mesaloggion-Extor-

tions of Ali, Pasha of Joannina-Produce and commerce of Mesaloggion-Ruins of an ancient

city in the vicinity-River Acheloos, Echinades, Taphiai, Teleboiai, Doulichion-River

Evenos

77

CHAPTER IV.

Departure from Mesaloggion-Corinthian gulf, its various denominations--Arrival at Patra-

Antiquities and modern state of that city-Mount Panachaikos-The castle-Large cypress-

Slaves-Mounts Chalcis and Taphiassos-Departure for Galaxidi-Promontories of Rhion

and Antirrhion-Promontory of Drepanon-Nepaktos-Description of Galaxidi-Dance and

carnival of the inhabitants-Costumes

CHAPTER V.

Departure for Salona-Ancient ruins called Agia Euphemia-Salona, the ancient Amphissa; inha-

bitants, produce-Visit to the Voivode-To Krisso, the ancient Krissa-Discordance of authors

concerning that town and Kirra-Krissæan plain

143

CHAPTER VI.

From Krisso to Kastri-Sepulchral chambers-Situation of Delphi-Kastriotes-Kastalian spring-

The rocks Phaidriades-Temple of Apollo-The prophetic, or oracular cavern-The serpent

Pytho-Stadium-Convent of the Kalogeroi-Ruins near it-Detached masses of rock-The

cave of Sybaris on Mount Kirphis-River Pleistos-The vale of Delphi, and situation of the

ancient town-Echo-Coins of Delphi
162

CHAPTER VII.

From Kastri to Distomo-Sepulchres near the Kastalian spring-Sacred way-Sepulchral monu-

ment-Village of Arakoba-Remains of an ancient city-The Triodos and tomb of Laios-

Distomo, anciently Ambrysos-To Daulis-Ruins of the city-Mount Parnassos-To Agios-

Blasios, anciently Panopeus-Ruins of the city-To Libadea-Description of an Archon's

house-Locusts-Oracular cavern of Trophonios-To Kapourna, anciently Chæroneia-Ruins

of the city

Page 194

CHAPTER VIII.

To Skripou, anciently Orchomenos-Plain of Charoneia-Ruins of Orchomenos-Treasury of Minyas

-Lake Kopais, its towns, rivers, and mountains-Outlets of the lake-River Cephissos-

Village of Romaiko-Village of Granitza-Return to Libadea-To Mikrokoura, anciently

Haliartos-Ruins of the city-Eremo-Kastro, anciently Thespeia-Ruins of the city-To

Kakosia, anciently Thisbe-Ruins of the city-Mount Helicon-To the village of Katsikabeli

-To Thebes

225

CHAPTER IX.

Thebes, Kadmeia-Gates and remains of the town-Character of the ancient and modern Thebans-

Villages in the Theban territory-To Kokla, anciently Platæa-Ruins of the city-Ancient

arms-Mount Citharon-To Egypto-Kastro, anciently Eleutherai-Ruins of the town-The

Diodos-Village of Kondoura-To Athens-Eleusinian plain-The plague-Arrival at

Athens

262

CHAPTER X.

Monument of Lysikrates-Convent of Missionaries-View from it-Acropolis of Athens-Dispute

with the Disdar-Theatre of Herodes Atticus-A portico-Another theatre-Monument of

Thrasyllos-Tripodial columns-Cave in the east end of the Acropolis rock-Another with

niches-Ancient steps cut in the rock—Makrai Petrai—Cave of Pan-Turkish burying-place

-Walls of the Acropolis-Walls of the town

288