I shall conclude this part of our subject with the following judicious observations of the author, on whom I have already freely drawn. "It would be a curious subject of inquiry, to follow out to their ultimate consequences, and through all their ramifications, the effects resulting to society from the introduction of new luxuries; to ascertain the degree wherein the indulgence, by the wealthy, of wants called into existence, by the very means afforded for their gratification, brings other enjoyments within the reach of a larger number, by reason of the new demand for industrious labor thus created; and to learn how a still larger class are, through the spirit of emulation, rendered so desirous of acquiring an equal participation in comforts enjoyed by their former equals, as to give an effectual spur to their industry and ingenuity. Luxuries, when they have been long enjoyed, become, in a manner, necessary to our happiness; to be without them, when others are not so deprived, is to feel ourselves lowered in the scale of society,- -a degradation, to which but few individuals would willingly submit, while the means of avoiding it continue within their reach. * * * The natural wishes of every man are placed upon the acquirement of something more and better than that which he at present enjoys; and society is thus led, by the concurring efforts of each of its individual members, progressively and steadily onward," SEVENTH WEEK-FRIDAY. CLOTHING.-THE SILK MANUFACTURE-REARING OF THE ALTHOUGH it would not be consistent with my plan, to enter into minute details of the progress of the silk manufacture, or of the mechanical improvements by which it has been brought to its present state of prosperity, there are some further particulars which are too interesting not to be deserving of notice; and these I shall, without much attention to arrangement, collect together in the present paper. In the Spring' volume, I have given some account of the little insect, from whose cocoons the silk is extracted, to which I must refer the reader. Its sole food, in its caterpillar state, is the mulberry-tree, exemplifying an extensive provision of the Creator, by which a particular species of vegetable food seems purposely formed for the subsistence of particular kinds of animals, and thus affording a new evidence of the studied adaptations which constantly occur between the vegetable and animal worlds. This will appear the more remarkable in the case of the silkworm, if it be true, as is alleged, that no other insect will feed on the mulberry-leaf. Experiments have been made, to test this fact, with various kinds of insects; but they all rejected this species of food, except in a single instance, when a green worm, apparently compelled by hunger, subsisted on it. During a continued observation of three years, Miss Rhodes never once found an insect upon the leaves used by her. Other fruit-trees and vegetables in the same garden, were sometimes covered with myriads of insects, while the mulberry-tree, surrounded by these ravagers, remained sacred from their depredations. Not even the aphides invade this tree, exclusively devoted to the use of the silkworm. There are two qualities in a mulberry-leaf, chiefly necessary for the production of silk ;—saccharine matter, which sustains the insect, causes its increase in size, and goes to the formation of its animal substance; and resinous matter, which, according to Count Dandalo, produces the material of the cocoon, or, as he expresses it, "separating itself gradually from the leaf, and attracted by the animal organization, accumulates, clears itself, and insensibly fills the two reservoirs, or silk vessels." It follows, that the quantity of the produce may be materially affected by the soil and climate, as these must, to a certain extent, affect the secretions; and this may account, in a certain degree, for the fact, that some situations, where both the mulberry-tree and the silkworm are found to thrive, are not so favorable as other places for the production of the material. The weight and length of reeled silk that can be obtained from each cocoon, are very variously stated by different authors; and, indeed, vary considerably, according to circumstances. Some statements on the subject are very extravagant. Among others, Isnard, an old author, affirms, that the silk of one cocoon, when drawn out, will measure six miles in length, that is, 10,560 yards! Count Dandalo, at once, contracts this measurement more within the limits of probability. He found, that a silkworm's labors seldom exceed the production of 625 yards; and this itself is an astonishing quantity, when we reflect upon the brief period employed by so small a creature in its production. Miss Rhodes and Pullien give a considerably smaller produce, as the result of their experience. It has been calculated, that one pound avoirdupois, such is the extreme fineness of the thread, would extend 535 miles, and forty-seven pounds would encircle the globe. It is found, that, to obtain one pound of reeled silk, twelve pounds of cocoons are required; that rather more than 2800 worms are employed in forming these cocoons, and that to feed these during their caterpillar state, 152 pounds of mulberry-leaves must be gathered. This pound of reeled silk is capable of being converted into sixteen yards of gros-de-Naples, of ordinary quality, or into fourteen yards of the best description. Before closing the history of the silk manufacture, I may mention, in a few words, the attempts which have been made to rear the worm in Great Britain, and its colonies. James I., encouraged by the partial success of Henry IV., of France, zealously endeavored to stimulate his subjects to the introduction of silk production in his own country. Being, however, disappointed in his attempt at home, he extended his views to the American colonies, and urged the Virginian Company to promote the cultivation of mulberry-trees, and the breeding of silkworms. His countenance incited the company to make the experiment; but, after much apparent promise of success, the project was abandoned, chiefly owing to the misfortunes IV. 18 X. which the colony of Virginia at this time experienced, and which involved the dissolution of the company. Subsequent attempts to introduce the culture of the silkworm into that part of the world, were, from various causes, not probably connected with the climate, rendered abortive. The same may be said of the various projects which have been set on foot, both in England and Ireland, for accomplishing a similar object. They have all failed, notwithstanding both the worm and its food can be raised there in great abundance; and the experience of Sweden, and other northern countries, has shown that a silk of superior quality may be raised in climates equally removed from the intense influence of the sun. The reason of the failure seems to lie in the high comparative price of labor in England. In manufactures, this discouragement is obviated by the superior excellence of the machinery, and extent of the capital; while, to the rearing of the silkworm, these advantages will not apply. [If the high price of labor is the cause of the poor success of the silk manufacture in England, it will operate still more against the same manufacture in the United States, where the price of labor is much higher. It is certain, that very little progress has as yet been made in this direction. A few acres have been planted with mulberry trees; there are a few establishments which turn out a limited quantity of sewing silk; and a few of the smaller articles of dress have been woven. But this is all. Silk may, in a course of years, rank among the important products of American industry; but there is no probability that this will soon be the case. Let industry of all kinds be encouraged; but let flushed and extravagant speculation, of any kind, be checked. Aм. ED.] How beautiful is the provision by which existence and enjoyment have been profusely extended, to produce an elegant article of clothing! And this is a creative arrangement analogous to many others. To procure us food, flocks and herds are reared in abundance and fostered with care. To assist our labor, or our easy conveyance from place to place, other species of animals are propagated, and kindly protected; and again, in the pres ent instance, how many myriads of animated beings are cherished into existence, and cared for by man, to supply an admired article of dress! It is said that the quantity of silk used in England alone, amounts to more than four millions of pounds weight; and, to satisfy this demand, no fewer than fourteen thousand millions of animated beings must annually live and die.* If this appear worthy of admiration, let us extend our view from this little spot, over the world; and especially let us look to China, whose dense population amounts to nearly a fourth part of the human race, and remember that this immense portion of mankind, from the emperor on his throne, to the peasant in his lowly hut, are indebted for their clothing to the labors of uncountable millions of these insects; and we shall then perceive to what an amazing extent the same beneficent principle operates in a quarter where, perhaps, it might have least been expected. To discover such wonderful plans for the propagation of life, and the diffusion of enjoyment, does elevate our conceptions of Divine goodness, and afford a peculiar pleasure to the contemplative mind. SEVENTH WEEK-SATURDAY. CLOTHING.-THE COTTON MANUFACTURE-ITS FOREIGN HIS TORY.† IN Arabia, and the neighboring countries, cottons and muslins came gradually into use; and the manufacture was spread, by the commercial activity and enterprise of the early followers of Mohammed, throughout the ex * [The value of manufactured silk imported into the United States in the year 1837, was between thirteen and fourteen millions of dollars. -AM. ED.] † In the history of the cotton manufacture, I have made free use of the recent publication of Mr. Baines, a work of much intelligence and research. And to this, and Dr. Ure's scientific work on the Philosophy of Manufactures, I am chiefly indebted for my materials in this depart ment. |