for ever be unnavigable, and that there is not even a chance of ascertaining its existence, since all approach to the bottom of these bays is prevented by the ice which fills them to so great a depth, and appears never to have moved from its station. '

p. 153.

On quitting the northernmost point which the expedition had thus reached, the vessels proceeded to explore Jones's Sound, the next inlet where the passage in question might be expected. This bay was also filled with ice of a peculiarly solid nature, and of a green colour; the land appearing bare of vegetation: Few birds were seen, no whales, nor any animal, except seals, which were abundant. The depth of water was 110 fathoms. Here also it was ascertained, that a ridge of very high mountains extended nearly across the bottom of the bay, joining to another from the south not quite so high. Being satisfied that there could be no passage here, the vessels stood to the southward. At this place a piece of fir was picked up, with the mark of the plane and adze on it, and containing nails. Captain Ross thinks it had drifted up the bay by the southerly winds: he seems to forget the shorter road it might have had, like the harpooned whales, from the White Sea, or the west coast of America, through the Polar Basin and Jones's Sound; or Lancaster Sound;-'tis all one. We must here remark, that this is the only piece of driftwood that was found in the bay. A good deal of stress has been laid on the subject of driftwood coming from the Polar Basin, between Spitzbergen and Greenland, or through the North-west Passage down Baffin's Sea,' after having made the voyage of Behring's Straits, and, for aught we know, that round Cape Horn also, from the Bay of Honduras. Inconsequentia rerum fœdissima.' We have inquired of our nautical friends respecting these occurrences. Admiral Lowenorn's theory of the specific gravity of floating mahogany, which is too heavy to float, and of which the specific gravity is diminished by its being perforated, is no doubt very philosophical; but we must say, that we think the plain and vulgar supposition of the loss of a ship, or the washing overboard of a few planks, is a more natural solution of the pheno

mena.

On the 24th of August, the sun set to our navigators for the first time-terminating a day of 1872 hours,' as it is here stated; and giving them warning of the approach of a long and dreary winter. The land surrounding Jones's Sound was repeatedly seen at the same time; the ice was much heavier and more compact. On the 28th of August, the fogs, which had been found very prevalent for some days, began to be of serious inconvenience, as the nights also became dark; but at several times, the land was track to the latitude of 75° 27', presenting

ridges of very lofty mountains: The coast, however, being defended by ice, it could not be approached within five leagues. The sea to the eastward was at the same time entirely clear of ice. The mountains were estimated at 4000 feet, (it is not easy to conjecture upon what grounds), and were but partially covered with snow; black rocks protruding at their summits; their sides, near the foot, were equally clear; and our navigators considered this part of the coast as habitable. The soundings were found to reach from 200 to 240 fathoms, pretty regularly for a considerable space.

On the 29th, the ships continued standing towards the most distant land, which was indistinctly seen at half past five in the afternoon from south to north-west. During this progress, the temperature of the surface water increased from 32° to 36°. This is very properly attributed to the vessels having quitted the ice, in the vicinity of which the freezing temperature is naturally maintained. A wide opening appeared here, between a cape, called Cape Charlotte, and a more distant land, which, after some tacking, the Isabella was enabled to stand in for, to explore; and on the 30th of August, the northern side of the land in this opening was seen extending from west to north in a chain of high mountains covered with snow. A yellow sky, without land, was also seen between west and south-west,' with the water clear of ice; the opening taking the appearance of a channel, which was judged to be 45 miles; (wide) we suppose. But here we are, as usual, left to our conjectures respecting the opinion Captain Ross might have formed on the subject of this channel, and the feelings of hope or doubt with which he may have been agitated in arriving at a point, which, to say the least, gave the strongest indication that had yet been found of a north-west passage.

6

In the afternoon of the same day, the wind having obliged them to stand to the south side, they had arrived at the most magnificent chain of mountains which they had ever beheld.' The rocks of the summits, in these also, protruded beyond the covering of snow. The rest of the day was spent in beating to the westward; all sail was carried, and every advantage taken of the changes in the direction and strength of the wind. As the evening closed, the wind died away,-the weather became mild and warm,—the water much smoother, and the atmosphere clear and serene. The mountains on each side of the Strait, being clear of clouds, had beautiful tints of various colours. For the first time we discovered that the land extended from the south two-thirds across this apparent Strait; but the fog which continually occupied that quarter, obscured

VOL. XXXI. NO. 62.

its real figure. During this day, much interest was excited by the appearance of this Strait; but the general opinion was, that it was only an inlet; and, by anticipating a few pages of the narrative, we find that it was the Lancaster Sound of Baffin, the latitude being here found to coincide with that given in his account.

Soon after midnight the wind began to shift, and the ship came gradually up, enabling us to stand directly up the bay: I, therefore, made all sail, and left the Alexander considerably astern. At a little before four o'clock A. M., the land was seen at the bottom of the inlet by the officers of the watch; but before I got upon deck, a space of about seven degrees of the compass was obscured by the fog. The land which I then saw was a high ridge of mountains, extending directly across the bottom of the inlet. This chain appeared extremely high in the centre, and those towards the north had, at times, the appearance of islands, being insulated by the fog at their bases. Although a passage in this direction appeared hopeless, I was determined completely to explore it, as the wind was favourable; and, therefore, continued all sail. At eight the wind fell a little, and the Alexander being far astern I sounded, and found six hundred and seventy-four fathoms, with a soft muddy bottom. There was, however, no current, and the temperature of the mud was 291°. Soon after this the breeze freshened, and we carried all sail, leaving the Alexander, and steering directly up the bay. The weather was now variable, being cloudy and clear at intervals. Mr Beverley, who was the most sanguine, went up to the crow's-nest; and, at twelve, reported to me, that before it came thick, he had seen the land across the bay, except for a very short space. Although all hopes were given up, even by the most sanguine, that a passage existed, and the weather continued thick, I determined to stand higher up, and put into any harbour I might discover, for the purpose of making magnetical observations. Here I felt the want of a consort, which I could employ to explore a coast, or discover a harbour; but the Alexander sailed so badly, and was so leewardly, that she could not safely be employed on such a service. During this day we shortened sail several times, to prevent our losing sight of her altogether. As we stood up the bay, two capes on the south side were discovered, one of which I named after the Earl of Liverpool; and the land was named Cape Hay, which formed the boundary on one side of Catherine's Bay before mentioned.

About one, the Alexander being nearly out of sight to the eastward, we hove to for half an hour, to let her come up a little; and, at half past one, she being within six or seven miles of us, we again made all sail. I intended to have sounded during this interval, but I found the south-east swell had so much increased, and the drift was so great, that it was impracticable.

At half past two there were some hopes of its clearing, and I left orders to be called on the appearance of land or ice ahead. At three, the off was relieved to his dinner by Mr

Lewis, reported, on his coming into the cabin, that there was some appearance of its clearing at the bottom of the bay; I immediately, therefore, went on deck, and soon after it completely cleared for about ten minutes, and I distinctly saw the land, round the bottom of the bay, forming a connected chain of mountains with those which extended along the north and south sides. This land appeared to be at the distance of eight leagues; and Mr Lewis, the master, and James Hay, leading man, being sent for, they took its bearings, which were inserted in the log; the water on the surface was at temperature of 34°. At this moment I saw also a continuity of ice, at the distance of seven miles, extending from one side of the bay to the other, between the nearest cape to the north, which I named after Sir George Warrender, and that to the south, which was named after Viscount Castlereagh. The mountains, which occupied the centre, in a north and south direction, were named Croker's Mountains, after the Secretary to the Admiralty. The south-west corner, which formed a spacious bay, completely occupied by ice, was named Barrow's Bay, and is bounded on the south by Cape Castlereagh, and on the north by Cape Rosamond, which is a head land, that projects eastward from the high land in the centre. The north corner, which was the last I had made out, was a deep inlet; and as it answered exactly to the latitude given by Baffin of Lancaster Sound, I have no doubt that it was the same, and consider it a most remarkable instance of the accuracy of that able navigator. At a quarter past three, the weather again became thick and unsettled; and being now perfectly satisfied that there was no passage in this direction, nor any harbour into which I could enter, for the purpose of making magnetical observations, I tacked to join the Alexander, which was at the distance of eight miles; and having joined her a little after four, we stood to the south-eastward.' The temperature of the mud was here found to be 29°; and no indication of a current was observed.

As we had heard that undoubted indications of a passage through Lancaster Sound existed, and indeed that the expedi tion now fitting out was intended almost entirely for the purpose of exploring it, we were rather surprised at the positive manner in which the non-existence of the passage is here stated, and of the apparent force of the evidence brought forward. It is not for us to reconcile the doubts of those who disbelieve, with the testimony of those who have seen; but we must say, that our just indignation at confident nonsense,' to use the words of Tillotson, strongly tempts us to drop the subject altogether, and to accompany our navigator throughout the very little interesting matter that now renins in his Journal.

Quitting Lancaster Sound, the Expedition proceeded to the southward, passing two more inlets, which were filled with large glaciers of ice, and quite impenetrable.' It is here re

marked, and indeed in many other places, that wherever there woe a head sea, the vessels made very little way, being very bad sails, particularly the Alexander-from whose bad sailing, however, Captain Ross seems to have derived an advantage, namely, that of surveying the coast, while detained by her tardy progress; an attempt which the lateness of the season, and the nature of his instructions, would otherwise have rendered improper. There is much cause to regret, that more attention is not paid in these departments of our service, where no ability can be supposed wanting, to circumstances on which the very fate, no less than the efficacy, of such expeditions must depend. In exploring a coast, nothing can be more obviously necessary than an active vessel, of a light draught, quick in sailing, and ready in working, so as to be fearless of the dangers of a lecshore. Where so much also, as in this instance, was required to be done in so little time, quick sailing was a property most essentially necessary. It is not for us to imagine where the fault lies; but it is obvious, that no one can be so competent to select the vessel for such a purpose, as he whose business it is to command it, particularly if his previous knowledge of that particular navigation should have entitled him to speak with authority.

An uninterrupted chain continued to extend along this coast to the southward, connected with the ridge formerly observed in the bay. No bottom was found in 550 fathoms, the same general character as on the east side of the Bay appearing here also to prevail.

On this evening, as we are informed, there being a thick fog, the compasses all ceased to act. The effect of a humid atmosphere, in increasing the deviation, or, in other words, in diminishing the more remote action of the magnetic centre on the needle, is frequently mentioned during the progress of the voyage. It is a remarkable fact in the history of magnetism; but, though hitherto little noticed, it has been recorded before. In James's voyage, we find the following passage. • At night the fog was of so piercing a nature, as to spoil all our compasses, and make them flag so heavy withal, that they would not traverse; wherefore I would advise any that shall sail this way hereafter, to provide conipasses of Muscovy glass, or some other matter that will endure the moisture of the weather.' James's theory is more distinct, than his remedy is unavailing; as the needle is secured from the immediate contact of the piercing fog' in all compasses. It is impossible, in the present state of our information, to propose any thing on this subject, of which, indeed, in all its details, we have so little accurate knowledge;