lace dresses over white satin, with corsages of white satin, are still, and will, no doubt, continue to be long in favour; white satin dresses, with lace flounces, are much worn at the opera, and at card parties and concerts: a fichu of white gauze, with a plain, though rich border, is generally thrown over the neck at public spectacles. hat seen on the portraits of Marguerite de || dinner party, and the evening rout. Black Valois, and the unfortunate and beautiful Queen of Scots; they are of white sarsnet, delicately and profusely figured; the edge finished by a Bouffont rouleau of blond net, and surmounted by a plume, disposed in the Spanish fashion, of vulture's feathers. A bonnet of white satin, finished by rouleaux of ponceau, edged with narrow blond, set on rather scanty, is much in favour for the carriage for morning visits; it ties under the chin with broad lappets, with ponceau satin and narrow blond: a full plume of white curled feathers, tipped with ponceau, is placed in front. Striped turbans are much worn at the theatres; the stripes are rich, on a ground of either white or black gauze. Spanish and Caledonian caps of black velvet, and with Esprit feathers with those of the Ostrich depending, are likely never to be out of favour, they are so universally becoming and elegant. Young ladies wear diadem combs of gold, polished steel, diamond-cut or pearls, with Glauvina pins of pear-pearls, or oblong ornaments of polished steel at each end: but the newest ornament for the hair is a large gold head: many young ladies wear only an half wreath of dark winter flowers on the summit of the head. The morning cornette is formed of red lilac satin ribbon, and Urling's patent lace let in, in stripes; the crowns of the Cornette's are now as remarkable for their being low, as they were some weeks ago for their height; breadth seems now the more desireable end to be obtained in dressing the head; accordingly, on these cornettes are placed bows of ribbon on each temple. Dress hats are still worn by matronly ladies; they are made either transparent, or of some light material, and are ornamented with soufflét feathers, and are fastened on with a pearl glauvina pin. The gowns are not made to fall off the shoulders, as they were a few months ago; indeed the most prevalent fashion is to make them partially high; thus discovering the fine contour of the bust, without indecorously exposing it: a frill of Urling's Patent Lace falls over, and by this appendage the robe thus made, becomes appropriate even to the full-arrow, crossing obliquely the back of the dressed evening party; nor can we dismiss the mention of this superb article of the toilet, -Urling's Lace, without noticing some very unique dresses that have lately been sent for our private inspection, and fabricated for some ladies of the first rank. They consist of petticoats richly trimmed with ornamented flounces and the petticoat and its trimmings are entirely made of this costly material: they are worn over white satin slips, with white satin corsages; and our ladies shew their good sense in patronizing a work of uncommon genius by their own countryman, which they may have from ten to twelve guineas the dress, splendid, full, and handsome, whereas, for a plain, scanty petticoat of French lace, not looking half so well, they must, at least, pay fifty guineas! Morning Dresses are of fine cambric, richly trimmed with embroidered muslin. For half-dress we have seen a very beautiful silk of jonquil colour, sprigged with ponceau in brocade: the border finished by two flounces of ponceau satin; and a pelerine collar of the same material falls over the bust: this dress is becoming to almost every complexion; but it will vanish at the advance of spring: the beautiful, improved English sarsnet, of the Parma violet colour, the delicate milk choco-edge, and the ground is fine blond net; the The favourite articles in jewellery are necklaces of several rows of pearls twisted, and fastened with a richly ornamented ring of polished steel. Polished steel ear-rings, and those of rubies and garnets are much admired, The brooches have fine cameos on them, and are set round with chased gold. Coral is much worn in home costume. The fans for the Opera, and ball-room, are truly elegant : they are light and beautifully ornamented with dark coloured satin, and gold at the late, and the Egyptian reed, covered with small figures are likely to be more durable; and they are charming both as for the friendly sticks are of ivory, so delicately carved, that they represent lace work: these fans are much in favour with the nobility at Almack's rooms, The favourite colours are Jonquil, milk || knot with ends, terminated by gold tags, are chocolate, Egyptian reed, and parma violet: pink and celestial blue have appeared but partially: the fast approaching Spring will, no doubt, make these always favourite colours more general. Cabinet of Taste; OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN COSTUME. By a Parisian Correspondent. COSTUME OF PARIS. It has often been remarked that Fashion triumphs sometimes over reason, and good sense: those who made the observation, I am sure, never knew what good taste was, nor the classical blending of colours, with the art of diversifying every mode, without causing it to lose its air of general fashion, by adopting its make to the face and figure of different individuals. The Parisian Fashions boast always a peculiar brillianey on the approach of Spring; the French metropolis, like your own, is then full, and every lady is emulous to display the elegance of her taste, and the association of the most beaming hues of the rainbow in the various articles that compose her dress. Notwithstanding the mildness of the weather, pelisses were never before so much in favour as now. They are even worn in going to, and coming from, the ball room, and the quantity that are thrown pêle mèle over each other in the antichambers of the sales à danser, causes frequent mistakes and whimsical exchanges; many ladies, therefore, are careful enough to have their names worked on the lining, in full length. Cachemire shawls form a favourite envelope at the Thuilleries, and other public walks; some have a white ground, bordered with large palm leaves, and blue flowers beautifully executed; while lighter branches of these blue flowers play over the rest of the shawl, in a serpentine direction; in the centre of each flower is an orange coloured spot: the stalks are of bright green, finely shaded. A new kind of hat of lemon-coured silk has lately appeared: but black hats, with a triple very fashionable; white Ostrich feathers are worn with these hats. Satin and shag silk bonnets are also much in request; they are of various colours, according as the wearer finds most becoming to her complexion: and they are ornamented with flowers: but white satin hats are invariably ornamented with white feathers, handsomely curled: these feathers have coloured tips. Hats for paying visits of ceremony, are of white satin looped up on one side, with a full blown provence rose; there provence roses are placed in front, and a pluime of Marabout feathers are bent back: under this bat is worn a cornette of blond. Cachemire dresses of black, bordered with two rows of palm leaves of very bright colours, are much in request for home costume; the corsage is fluted behind and before, and trimmed with a border of shawl work; the mancherons and wrists are ornamented in a correspondent manner. Barêge silks, with variegated coloured stripes on a ground of one colour, are also much in favour for half dress. Tulle, flock gauze, striped crape, or Turin gauze, are the most approved materials for ball dresses; the Turin gauze is woven with raw silk, and has the excellent quality of never becoming rumpled, nor does it leave the least trace of any crease or fold. A very favourite ball dress for young persons, is made of rose-coloured striped crape, trimmed round the border, next the hem, with a rouleau of satin of the same colour, well wadded; above this rouleau is a row of large lozenges, which are not wadded; above these runs another wadded rouleau, about three fingers in breadth; and higher are two rouleaux, not wadded, à la serpentine; and in the hollow of each festoon, formed by this serpentine, is a bouquet composed of tuberoses, roses with foliage, and ears of silver corn. The hair is ornamented with a wreath of flowers, and a bouquet is worn on the left side of the bosom, composed of the same flowers as those which ornament the dress; the sleeves of ball dresses are short and full; and the corsages are laid in small flat plaits; crape and gauze dresses have satin slips underneath, at the border of which is a serpentine rouleau well filled with wadding, to keep out the crape dress. A white tulle ball dress over white satin, is beautiful from its chaste simplicity; it is orna PARIS. mented with separate bunches of flowers, or PRESENT STATE OF DANCING IN ears of corn, with flowers on the head to correspond. An odd way of trimming gowns has lately appeared among our fashionists; it consists, at the border of three rows of flat bands, placed at equal distances; and these bands look as if they were formed of ends of ribbon, passed through a buckle, and placed at the end of each other; one band has not less than twelve buckles, and twelve ends cut angle-wise. The bands are the same colour as the gown, but not of the same material; the buckles are oblong and are formed of rouleaus of silk or satin. The present style of dressing the hair is far from being pleasing; the curls are large, and being craped, before they are formed into ringlets, it gives them a very unpleasant stiffness. Wreaths à l' Eucharis, are favourite ornaments on the head; they are oblong and are formed of two plaits of hair, one is bound round just above the ears, and the other is placed round the top of the head; on the summit of this kind of coronet is a bunch of flowers in form of a fan. Some wreaths are formed entirely of ears of corn, and between each ear is brought a curl of hair, which has a very pretty effect. Dress hats of flock gauze and striped crape are much worn at evening parties by married ladies; an elegant black Legate's toque is also much admired, it is ornamented with a suberb white paradise plume, inclining to the left side. 1 A favourite colour is now much used for riding habits, in Paris, called the dust of ruins; it is a kind of grey: the other colours most prevalent, are sandal wood, crapaud, pale pink, cherry colour, ponceau, and Amaranth. A fichu shawl is generally thrown over the shoulders in full dress; it is of lace, sprinkled over with gold figures, and bordered with a broad festoon ornament of gold. Ir being now the season for balls, I cannot conclude, without giving you some account of our modern mode of dancing. Spanish dances are quite the rage; and the term may be well applied to the Bularo, which, when danced in the best manner in Spain, always reminded me of two persons scolding each other: this dance, with the Fandango, is much in favour now at Paris; and the French ladies dance them in a manner, which would make one imagine they had long sojourned in Spain, or, at least, among the Pyrenees. In the management of the castagnets, the male plays the bass, and the female dancer the treble: the male takes the castagnets in his left hand, the female in her right, and with this little instrument, as the harp and the piano-forte, the hand, that is naturally most agile is the most employed; for every one knows that the higher part of music is most charged with notes, and consequently less easy to execute than the bass, or second part. The waltz and Le Moulinet still, however, continue in high favour: the diversity of steps introduced in all dances is astonishing; and the agile movements of the small feet, all in white satin slippers, absolutely dazzle the eyes. The English ladies, who frequent the most select ball rooms in great numbers, are remarked for their beauty, the elegance and vanity of their attire; they are distinguished by the rich materials of which their dresses are composed, and the intrinsic worth of their jewels and ornaments. A new style of dress has been adapted by the Fandango French dancers, which is Chinese crape pantaloons lined with levantine. The shuffling step, I am sorry to say, à la Portugais, is not yet out of favour. THE HIVE. Elegant Musical Compliment.-Haydn was an enthusiastic admirer of Mrs. Billington, and one day calling on Sir Joshua Reynolds, he found her sitting for her picture, where she is represented in the character of St. Cecilia, listening to the celestial music. Having looked at the portrait, Haydn said, "It is like, very No. 160.-Vol. XXV. like; but there is a strange mistake." "What is that?" said Sir Joshua, hastily. "You have painted her listening to the angels; you ought to have represented the angels listening to her." Mrs. Billington was so charmed by this compliment, that she sprung from her seat, and threw her arms round Haydn's neck. U |