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or Nothingarians-no lovers of Catholicism, either of the classes; and the habit is somewhat too general of speaking disparagingly of the forms of the Catholic worship, and of the Catholics themselves, under the roofs of their magnificent edifices, within which are gathered many of the very objects of art most strongly calling the traveller's attention and affording him most delight. This course is unwise, in one point of view, and cruel in another: unwise, as it involves ill-feeling and possible personal discomfort— cruel, as it needlessly pains others who hold differently. It is rudeness as well as folly to go into any Church, in any land, without, while remaining there, observing its rules of conduct and refraining from any offensive act or comment. "If things do not suit you, here, well enough to allow you to act as gentlemen and friends while here, be kind enough to remain away!" might be very often said, with propriety, to those Americans who start out from home with the determination to insult the world if they cannot proselyte it.

So much for the preparation of conduct, on entering foreign countries. Of another preparation-that involving a proper understanding of American national resources and due knowledge what in American institutions can and cannot be improved-something has already been said. And it only remains to deal a moment with one or two of the national regulations connected with persons and property, some of which may be vexatious while all must be submitted to with the best grace possible.

The advice has already been given-have pass

ports, useful in all countries, indispensable in some. In some of the European countries they will be demanded at short intervals by government officials, taken away to be viséd (examined and compared), and sometimes kept longer than may seem necessary to the traveller. For this there is but one rule: give them up calmly, and wait with what patience can be summoned. The arrangement is not, as it may ap pear at the first glance, a personal insult to you: others suffer in the same manner, and live through the suffering.

Again, in all the despotic countries a requirement will be made, immediately after registering at the hotel, for the name of every member of the party (at least every male)—age, place of birth, country, habitual residence, occupation, last previous stoppingplace, and the number of the room to be occupied ! All this to be communicated to the police, immediately; and it really does seem quite the equal of any inquisitiveness displayed even among the sharpest Yankees of the Eastern States. Nothing is gained by swearing over the espionage, however; and suspicion may be excited by any reluctance, when there is no ground whatever: "when in Rome, do as Rome does," even to obeying the police in the most absurd of their requirements. It may even happen that before leaving the city you are advantaged by the record, in the recovery of something lost or the detection of some wrong to yourself.

As to taking in baggage, at the ports or on crossing the frontiers of different countries. Very large amounts of baggage require very large amounts of

examination by the various custom-house authorities, unless golden spectacles are put on their eyes, when they generally see with great readiness and do not always tumble out the bijouterie as well as the dirty linen. From America, not many things likely to be carried in a trunk are dutiable at the European ports, except liquors, perfumes, cigars and tobacco. Of the first two there is no occasion to carry any through a foreign custom-house; they have better than we, at all times. As to cigars, tastes differ; at all events there is not much to be gained, either in cost or quality, by carrying more than the few (of which the officers of any ship will advise the passenger) allowed by law without duty. Tobacco is different, however: there is no decent tobacco in Europe, except as Americans carry it over; and inveterate tobaccousers should take plenty, and either prevent its quantity being known, by the use of those golden spectacles, or pay duty on the overplus, like men and citizens of that great nation which can certainly outchew and out-expectorate the wide world!

In passing from one European country to another, whether by crossing the Channel or a mere frontier, there are constant vexatious stoppages. But they can be endured, too, pretty easily, if the rule is always observed to have the baggage ready for examination whenever approaching a custom-station,-so that if it is wanted no time will be wasted, and if it is not, nothing will be lost. It really seems, sometimes, that the delays occasioned will lose the connecting trains, but such things never occur. Avoid having anything contraband; have keys ready and

instantly unlock when ordered; make no attempts at concealments that if detected would cause trouble; and so may the terrible douaniers of the Continent be passed with comparative ease, safety and celerity.

Close mouths, as to imprudent topics; observant eyes and ears, as to everything occurring; constant but judicious bribery, believing none to be above the temptation; and good temper under all circumstances these are the four rules of travel in foreign countries; and with them, and advice previously embodied, there can be no excuse for detaining the short-trip traveller a moment longer from the commencement of his sight-seeing and adventure.

VIII.

SHORT TRIPS IN IRELAND.

ASSUMING that advice previously given will be often taken, and that the greater proportion of shorttrip travellers, on their first voyage, will leave the steamer at Queenstown, on the Liverpool route,—it will be proper first to take a hurried peep at Ireland, reminding the reader that the commencement is at the extreme south, working northward, and that those who cross from Scotland to Belfast or other ports in the north, to take homeward passage from Queenstown, need only to reverse the paper to derive the same advantage. Another reminder may also be given, entering upon the legitimate business of a guide, ashore-that much ground is to be gone over, in this and succeeding papers, and that consequently the glances at different places must be of the briefest.

QUEENSTOWN TO CORK AND KILLARNEY.

QUEENSTOWN, the port of landing from the steamer, has little to commend it to the attention of travellers, except the fine harbor which it supplies to Cork. The harbor and fortifications are well deserving the view they are certain to receive, especially from those who there first set foot in Ireland. The town lies somewhat stragglingly at the west

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