expansive, but in every part it is truly beautiful. Reynard's Cave, Pickering Tor, and other parts, are usually visited by the stranger. At the Ashbourne end is the fine mountain called Thorpe Cloud, and not far off, is Ilam Hall, and the curious underground rivers (called the Swallows), the Hamps and the Mainfold.

The Dove has been a source of inspiration to poets, and a theme for prose writers innumerable. We can only now quote the following:

"Such streams Rome's yellow Tiber cannot show,

The Iberian Tagus, or Ligurian Po;

The Maesc, the Danube, and the Rhine

Are puddle-water all, compared to thine:

And Loire's pure streams yet too polluted are,
With thine, much purer, to compare:

The rapid Garonne, and the winding Seine,
Are both too mean,

Beloved Dove, with thee
To vie priority;

Nay, Tame and Isis, when conjoined, submit,
And lay their trophies at thy silver feet"

CHARLES COTTON.

"Harp, to the sweeter voice of waters played!
Where Ilam's fountains rise in crystal rings;
And where with cliffs o'erhung, and leafy shade,
The stream of Dove descends on brilliant wings!
Here must thou hush to rest thy quivering strings;
For I have seen Pike Pool's deep mirror'd cone;
Within the marble cave have drank its springs;
And resting now on Dove's fountain stone,
Thy music dies away-her soft pipe trills alone."

EDWARDS' "Tour of the Dove."

Near the entrances to Dovedale are excellent inns; the

Izaak Walton Hotel, the Dog and Partridge, and the Peveril of the Peak.

ILAM.

From Ashbourne 3 m.; from Chedale 9 m.; from Leek 10 m.; from Longnor 10 m.

Although situated in Staffordshire, Ilam Hall generally forms one of the places of resort for Derbyshire tourists, on account of its Hall, the seat of J. Watts Russell, Esq. The hall is not exhibited as a show-house, though parties furnished with a proper introduction are politely shown round. Rhodes says of it "It is situated on the Staffordshire side of the river Dove, and therefore not properly an object for these excursions; but with those who visit DOVEDALE, Ilam is always a point of attraction. Thorpe Cloud, one of the highest mountains in Derbyshire, stands like a mighty sentinel over its woods, gardens, groves, and meadows, that quietly repose in the deep hollow at its base."

As we enter the village of Ilam or Ham, our attention is attracted by an exquisitely designed and beautifully executed cross, of similar character to the crosses of Queen Eleanor, which was erected in memory of Mrs. Mary Watts Russell by her husband in 1840. It is a hexagonal cross, highly decorated, and bears the following inscription

“This Cross and Fountain,
erected by her Husband,
perpetuate the memory of
One who lives in the hearts
of many in this Village and
Neighbourhood.

MARY WATTS BUSSELF.
1840.

Free as for all these crystal waters flow,
Her gentle eyes would weep for others' woe;
Dried is that fount; but long may this endure,
To be a Well of Comfort to the Poor."

ILAM CHURCH, in front of the hall, has just been rebuilt from the designs of Mr. Scott, and is a bald and poorlooking edifice. The old church was extremely picturesque, and was thus described: "The tower appears to be a structure of foliage, for the stone work is so invested with ivy

as to be almost obscured with its verdant covering; and the dial of the clock is half buried amongst thickly entwined leaves. Ash, elder, and wild roses, of the most luxuriant growth and colour, flourish close around the walls of the church, and the adjoining burial ground is covered with the richest verdure, amongst which a grey stone occasionally appears, inscribed to the memory of those who sleep beneath." The chief attraction here, however, is the affecting monument, by Chantrey, to the memory of D. P. Watts, which occupies a little Gothic chapel over the family vault, to the north side of the church. Rhodes, though the intimate friend of the sculptor, did him no more than justice when he thus described the monument :-"In this fine work of art, the venerable David Pike Watts is represented on his bed of death, from whence he has half raised himself, by a final effort of expiring nature, to perform the last solemn act of a long and virtuous life. His only daughter and her children -all that were dearest to him in life-surround his couch, and bend at his side, as they receive from his lips the blessings and benedictions of a dying parent, when the last half-uttered farewell falters upon them. Nothing can be more affecting than this family group. The figures here committed to marble have the semblance of beings like ourselves, with passions, feelings, and affections similar to our own. We therefore sympathize in their afflictions, and mingle our tears with theirs. Fame, justice, wisdom, fortitude, charity, religion, are all represented by certain understood modifications of the human form, and they may be bodied forth in marble with great skill and felicity of execution; but, in comparison with the work I have described, how cold and feeble are the effects they produce!"

THE HALL, as it now stands, was erected by the present proprietor. It is in the Elizabethan style of architecture, and presents a truly noble appearance. The pictures and armoury are highly interesting.

Dr. Johnson, when he wrote Rasselas, is said to have had the scenery of the neighbourhood of Ilam in view, as the pattern of his "Happy Valley." Congreve wrote his "Old Bachelor," and part of his "Mourning Bride," in a grot near the hall, which is still known as "Congreve's Grot." The rivers Hamps and Manifold both rise within a few yards of each other, in the pleasure-grounds.

LONDON TO DERBY, by RUGBY and LEICESTER, 1323 miles;

from 6.15 A.M. to 8.45 P.M. Fares, from LONDON to RUGBY, express 183. 6d., night mail 17s. 3d. and 13s. 3d., ordinary 15s. 6d., 11s. 6d., and 6s. 10d.; from RUGBY to DERBY, express 13s. and 9s. 6d., night mail 10s. 9d. and 7s. 6d., ordinary 9s. 6d., 7s. 3d., 4s. 3d., and 4s. 14d. North-Western and Midland Railways.-Station, Euston Square.

LEEDS TO DERBY, through CHESTERFIELD, 74 miles; 3 A.M. to 9.15 P.M. Fares, express 20s. and 12s. 6d., night mail 15s. 9d. and 11s., ordinary 12s. 6d., 9s. 3d., 6s. 2d., and 6s. 2d. Midland Railway.

AMBERGATE TO ROWSLEY, for CHATSWORTH, HADDON HALL, BAKEWELL, BUXTON, and the PEAK generally, through CROMFORD, MATLOCK BATH, and DARLEY DALE, 11 miles; about 35 minutes. Fares, 2s. and 1s. Branch of Midland Railway.

DERBY TO AMBERGATE, by the Leeds line of the Midland Railway.

LINCOLN AND NOTTINGHAM TO DERBY; Lincoln 483 miles; Nottingham 15 miles. Fares, Lincoln 9s. 6d., 7s., and 3s. 10d.; Nottingham 2s., 1s. 6d., and 10d.

MANCHESTER AND LIVERPOOL TO DERBY, through CREWE and STOKE, or through MACCLESFIELD and LEEK. BIRMINGHAM TO DERBY, 41 miles, by TAMWORTH and BURTON-ON-TRENT. Fares, 7s. 6d., 5s. 6d., and 3s. 6d.

HEANOR, CODNOR PARK, ETC., TO DERBY, by the Erewash Valley Branch of the Midland Railway.

RIPLEY TO DERBY, by the Ripley and St. Mary's Bridge Branch of the Midland Railway, by way of LITTLE EATON. Fares 1s. 9d., 1s., and 10d.

ASHBOURNE TO DERBY, by the Churnet Valley and Midland lines.

1.-LONDON TO DERBY BY RUGBY AND LEICESTER, 132 Miles.