the Cabra Montaraz, or Bouquetin. It has a Colegiata and a charming walk, and is a frontier garrison town, and has witnessed the horrors of border warfare. Llivia-Julia Libicaalthough within the French boundary, is a Spanish town. Here Santiago first preached the Gospel to the Jews of Spain. Pop. under 1000. It is prettily situated under its ruined castle, and near the source of the Segre, with a handsome Parroquia. Llivia was once an episcopal town, but the cathedral was entirely destroyed in 732 by the Moors. Montluis, Mont Louis, is the French frontier citadel, built on a conical hill by Vauban in 1684, in order to command the narrow but easy and much-frequented pass (see Handbook for France). At Planes, near Montluis, is a church, said to be Moorish, earlier than Charlemagne, and certainly not later than the 10th centy. The second and central pass is by the Valle de Andorra. of independence between France and Spain. Geographically considered, the district ought to belong entirely to France, to which it is subject in civil matters, being in spirituals under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Urgel, a sort of Prince Bishop in a phantom palatinate, and nominal republic. The species of President is called the Veguer. Full particulars will be found in Madoz (i. 288), as also of the working of France and Spain in their tenancy in common. The whole republic may be some 37 m. in extent by 30 wide, E. and W.: the Pop. about 5000, either pastoral peasants, smugglers, or rude forgers of iron, who look in this picturesque country like devils in paradise. The chief town was originally at San Julian, where a stone cross marks the site; the present one stands with a good bridge on the Balira, and the town of Andorra suffered much during the civil wars both from hostile attack and suspension of commerce. To the rt. are the heights, and the old Moorish castle of Carol, a name derived from Carolus, Charlemagne. The Puerto is carried over the Col de Puig Marins, thence to Hospitalet (see Handbook for France, R. 97). Those who wish just to go into France will find Saillagouse one of the best of the mountain villages; the wild rocky scenery to the hamlets Porta and Poste is quite Salvator-Rosa-like. This, a bridle-road to Soldeu, is afterwards carriageable. The pastoral and picturesque valley of Andorra, a jumble of hills, enclosed on all sides by the The varied excursions from San Pyrenean spurs, extends about 7 L. Julian are full of alpine charms. long by 6 broad, and is bounded by Escaldos is an irregular picturesque the French and Spanish ridges, by hamlet, with a fine trout-stream, a Puigcerdá to the S. and E., by the water-power to the rude iron forges; Comté de Foix (départ. de l'Ariège) the ore is brought from Carol. The to the N., and by the Corregimiento hills around the rich alluvial basin of of Talaru to the W. Watered by the Andorra abound in pine-forests, which Balira, Ordino, and Os, it is one of the afford fuel; nothing can be prettier wildest districts of the Spanish Pyre- than the distant views of the villages, nees, abounding in timber, which is embosomed in woods: at Mont Melons floated down the Balira and Segre to are three lakes, enclosed by lofty and Tortosa. The name Andorra is derived fantastic walls of rock. Leaving Esfrom the Arabic Aldarra, "a place caldos, proceed up the valley of Embathick with trees," among which is lire, either to Canillo, or more circuitfound the Cabra Montaraz, with bears, ously by the Val de Arensel, entered by boars, and wolves. This valley, ceded a beautiful gorge, and then pass by in 819, by Louis le Débonnaire, to the the narrow defile to Urdino and Ariège. Bishop Sisebuto, has maintained a sort¦ A broken ridge separates Urdino and Canillo, where is a curious old church. | bregat. Izaak Walton himself could Thence on by miserable Soldeu, beyond which is the frontier line, and by Port de Framiquel, a wild region of Flora, to Ax, in the sweet valley of the Ariège, in France. The traveller will take a local guide, and attend to the provend. This is the western route by the Puerto de Aran. Ascending the pretty Ordino is Castellbó, with 250 inhabit ants. Romandrin is a poor place in the heart of the hills. At İlaborsi, a hamlet of iron-workers, is a good bridge over the Noguera Pallaresa, which here is joined by the Cardos. Tirvia is a better village, with 400 Inhab. Esterri, like all these places, is a mountain dwelling of hard-working peasants. Valencia has nothing in common with the voluptuous city on the sunny coasts: it is cold and cheerless, and constantly covered with snow, whence the name Val de Nea. Its Puerto is frequently impassable. From thence we descend into the Valle de Aran (see Index). The whole of this route is savage and alpine, and devoid of accommoda tions. not wish for a prettier district than this whole ride to Pobla de Lillet, a place on the Llobregat of some 1200 souls, which the angler may make his quarters. The peasants are hardworking and simple, and the women, as all over Catalonia, indefatigable knitters. The Llobregat flows through the hamlet; near it is a round temple dedicated to San Miguel, said to be one of the 8th centy. The angler may hence, skirting the hills, visit the river Fresné, or Freser, at Ribas; and then fish in the Ter to Cumprodon, a frontier town of 500 Inhab., sacked by the French in 1639, and again Oct. 5, 1793. Hence the traveller may cross the Puerto into France to Pratz de Mollo, and proceed up the valley of the Tech, 8 m. to Arles. Now the Canigú, rising almost isolated from the Pyrelike a fan, and soars a real mountain nean chain, spreads forth its spurs 9141 feet above the plains of Roussillon; the ascent is not difficult. From the views over sea, river, mountain, Arles, after reaching the top, whence and plain are superb, descend and sleep either at the forge of Valmania or even at Prades. Leaving Arles you which looks over the valleys of the pass by the old watch-tower of Bateres, Tech and Tet; there breakfast; then proceed through pine-woods and rhododendrons to the summit (see Handbook for France). Those who continue in Spain may descend the Llera from Camprodon, which falls into the Fluvia below Castellfolit. Ripoll (Pop. some 950) was nearly destroyed in the civil wars, which much injured the magnificent Benedictine convent built in the 10th centy. by the Abbot Oliva, and an Escorial from the 9th to the 12th centys. Here rest the early counts from Wilfred el Velloso, Mir, Suñé, Sinofredo, Borrel II., Ramon de Berenguer, &c.; the particulars of the tombs are detailed in Yepes (iv. 218), there is talk of preserving them in a Museo: the cloister is very curious, especially the romanesque capitals. Below, the town the Fresné, or Fraser, runs into the Ter; thus Ripoll may well be called Rivis Pollens. The valley is charming: the | with some books in the cloister library. Ter in its course to Vique flows near Observe singular pillars and capitals, Roda and Amer, through some narrow the work of Berengario Portell, of and very picturesque rocks; but into Gerona, 1325. Vich was repeatedly what lovely and secluded secrets of sacked by the French, and near it, nature does not trout-fishing conduct Feb. 20, 1810, Souham, by one dashing us! This stream is apt to be either French charge, put 14,000 Spaniards too low or too full of snow-water. to instant flight, their General E. Basalt-built Olot is a manufacturing O'Donnell leading the way to the town of 9000 souls, placed between mountain hides. the Fluvia and the volcanic hill Montsacopa, which is of great geological interest. Other craters exist on the Mont Olivet and el Puig de la Garrinada to the N.E., at Bosch de Tosca, and a league distant at Santa Margarita de la Cot; as the whole district is volcanic, the intermediate plains, Plá Sacot and de la Davesa, should be explored. The Sopladores, under the hill Batét, are cool | currents which blow out of the porous lava, and used by the natives as refrigeratories. Barcelona is 12 L. distant from Vich by Tona, 1 L., which is joined to Colluspina, and has on its hill a ruined castle, and an ancient church, founded in 888. Centellas, or Santa Columa de Centellas, 1 L., is said to have been so called from the Goth Chintila, who here built a strong fortress, now a ruin; the place, like Aigua Freda, 1 L., is built on the Congost. Thence 2 L. to La Garriga; 2 more to Granollers, Pop. 2200, near the rivers Besos and Congost; observe on the Six L. from Ripoll and 64 from Olot plaza the cobertizo, supported by pillars; is Vique, Vich, Ausona, a ciudad and 2 L. off in the pine-clad hills is the capital of its temperate and fertile Codinas, with its piñones, and petrifying hill-girt plain: ancient Ausona, accord- cascade: hence to Moncada 3 L., under ing to native annalists, was founded by its hill, which is separated from Reixach Auso, son of Briga, grandson of Noah. by the Besos; the ferruginous baths The modern name Vich is a corruption are much frequented: here the Gerona of Vicus, a Roman town razed by the high road is entered, and 2 L. more Moors and rebuilt in 798. Many Roman lead to Barcelona. Hostalrich, on the antiquities have been from time to high road to France, lies 7 L. S. from time discovered and neglected; some Vich: the cold Monseny ridge is inscriptions are preserved in the Esp. crossed near Arbusias, where, on the Sag., xxviii., which treats of this dio-hill San Sagismundo, the fine amethysts cese. The city is placed in the centre of its district, on a slope; the environs produce corn and fruit, and a bad wine: pop. about 10,090, partly manufacturing and agricultural; their sausages are excellent, especially the longanizas. The irregular town branches out like a spider's web from a centre group; it has a pleasant rambla and an arcaded plaza, and a prison in the ancient tower of Moncada of the 10th centy. The see, a bishopric restored in 880, in 970 was raised by John XIII. to be the metropolitan of Catalonia; this dignity reverted to Tarragona in the 11th centy., after its reconquest from the Moors. The cathedral, rebuilt in 1038 by the Bishop Oliva, has been modernised; it contains some bad pictures and a fine Custodia, 1413, are found which decorate Catalan earrings; the shooting here is excellent. At Olot the road branches off to Gerona, 7 L., by Mieras, and also to Figueras by Besalú. ROUTE 51.-BARCELONA TO Moncada 2 2 4 2 3 21 2 .. 6 9 111 131 4 .. 17+ This, the upper road, is by no means so pleasant as that which runs by the did carts stick in deeper ruts than in commercial Catalonia; nature, however, was bountiful enough, and this coast-line is truly delightful -a constant interchange of hill and plain, with the blue sea on one side and the rich maritime strip on the other, a sunny scene, where the aloe hedges the garden-farms of orange and lemon with impenetrable palisade; the cottages are neat and clean. There is little here of Castilian poverty or idleness: on all sides the women are knitting, the labourers delving, and the fishermen trimming their picturesque craft. Occupation renders all happy, while industry enriches, and these charming districts continue to be what they were of old described by Fest. Avienus (Or. Mar. 520), Sedes amœnæ ditium. coast, Rte. 42. The country to Ge- | Britannicus, for no where previously rona, by both roads, is densely peopled, and the manufacturing hive is in perfect contrast with the silent, lifeless Castiles and central provinces; we seem positively to be in another planet. This corner of the Peninsula has from time immemorial been exposed to the invader, who, whether Celt, Gaul, Roman, Goth, or French, have ravaged it in their turns: under the reign of terror of Duhesme el cruel and Augereau, the air was poisoned by the putrefying bodies of peasants, executed without even the form of a trial (Toreno, xi.). The road is carried under the cold Monseny range, amid a wild pine-clad broken country ; on the heights of Llinas, Vives and Reding ventured, Dec. 16, 1808, to oppose St. Cyr, who was advancing on Barcelona, after the capture of Rosas, which Vives had not even attempted to prevent. The Spaniards were completely routed, Vives running away on foot, Reding on horseback; and yet, in this billy broken country, by a proper guerrillero and defensive warfare, the French, driven to great straits, might have easily been cut off in detail. HOSTALRICH, once the most important fortress on this high road, was taken by the French in 1694, when the town was sacked, and the fortifications ruined, repaired afterwards, in Feb. 1810 they were held by Julian de Estrada for 4 months against Augereau, the garrison at last cutting out its way, and getting safely to Vich: Augereau vented his spite by torturing and burning alive many of the left behind (Schep. i. 256). Badalona, Bethulonia, on the Besos, near the sea, contains about 5000 manufacturing, busy, and amphibious souls. The ancient parroquia is built on Roman foundations, but few antiquities found here have been ever preserved. The coast is charming, dotted about with pines, and sweet groves tenanted by nightingales, and filled with fruit and corn, with the sweet blue sea gladdening the eye and tempering the summer heats. Mataró-IIluro (Inns, Posada de las DiligenciasMeson de la Fuerte)-rises on the sea, surrounded on the land side by verdurous gardens. The hermitage S. Mateu and the Moorish tower Barriach on their heights form landmarks for ships. Elevated to the rank of a ciudad since 1701, it contains 13,000 busy, industrious souls, and is increasing. The port is capable of much improvement. The town, of an irregular shape, has two good plazas, a well-managed hospital, and a fine spa ROUTE 52.—BARCELONA TO GERONA.cious parroquia, with 6 pictures by Vi Badalona. ladomat, in the Capilla de los Dolores; 5 represent the Saviour bearing the Cross, in different phases of agony; the Santa Veronica and Virgin, on blue and white drapery, is worthy of Murillo. The oldest church is San Miguel de Mata, whence some derive the city's name, and explain the armorial bearings, or 4 bars gules, a hand holding a sprig, Mata, with the word Ró. The chief street is La Riera (the river, Rambla); the well watered town has a tortuous old, and a more regular new, quarter: in the former the better classes reside, while the operatives and sailors people the latter. The marine suburb is connected with the upper by las Escaleras. The principal approaches, both from Barcelona and Gerona, are handsome streets. Mataró has at last recovered the terrible sacking by Duhesme, June 17, 1808; he was quartered for 2 months here, and received as an ally and a guest. On quitting he repaid the hospitality by bloodshed and pillage. Southey (viii.) and Toreno (iv.) give the details. Duhesme pursued his road to Gerona, 66 a red trail of fire and blood marking his progress" (Schep. iii. 227). This man, known here as El Cruel, was sent to his account at Gemappe, while skulking away after Waterloo. At Catilla the road turns inland, and the country becomes more broken and less cultivated. Gerona rises above the Ter, exposed indeed to the north winds, but overlooking a sunny, wellirrigated plain; placed by its military position in the very jaws of every invader, at no period has it escaped sieges, nor have the fierce natives shunned the encounter. Their wild district has always been the lair of the bold bandit and Guerrillero, unchanged since the days of Festus Avienus (Or. Mar. 528): "Post Indigetes asperi se proferunt, Gens ista dura, gens ferox venatibus Ferocity is indeed inherent; but with the vices they have the rude, hardy virtues of uncivilized mountaineers. Gerona, Gerunda, is of most remote antiquity: the diligence inn is the best. Some derive the name from Geryon, who kept oxen near Cadiz, exactly the most distant, and most unlikely point: others contend for the Celtic Ger, near, and Ond, a confluence; and it is placed near the junction of the Ter and the Ona. These matters are discussed in the Resumen de las Grandezas,' Juan Gasper Roig y Yalpi, fol. Barcelona, 1678, and in the Esp. Sag. xliii. iv. v. Gerona boasts Spain.-I. to be the first town in which Santiago and St. Paul rested when they came to Spain; which neither did. While in the possession of the Moors, and placed between France and Spain, like other limitrophe districts, it sided alternately with each, and generally with the former. It was taken in 785 by Charlemagne, the "heavens raining blood, and angels appearing with crosses (Esp. Sag., xliii. 74). The Moors regained and sacked it in 795. It was soon recovered by its "Counts," and then, passing to Aragon, gave the title of Prince to the king's eldest son. Of the Moorish period there remains an elegant bath in the Capuchin convent, a light pavilion rising from an octangular stylobate. Gerona, a ciudad, well-built and massy, Pop. about 8000, is the capital of its district, the see of a bishop, a plaza de armas. It lies under the fortified Montjuich hill, is of a triangular form, with streets narrow but clean, and has 3 plazas: the Mercadel, or suburb, parted off by the Ona, is very ancient. The city is much dilapidated from the French siege and bombarding; it bears for arms, or, the 4 Catalan bars gules, and an escutcheon of waves azure. The see was founded in 786 by Charlemagne. The early cathedral was pulled down and rebuilt in 1316; in 1416 a dispute arose whether the bold plan by Guillermo Boffy of one nave should be changed into 3: a jury of 12 architects was summoned, who decided on the single plan. Cean. Ber. (Arch. i. 92, 261) has printed all the deliberations, which evince the serious consideration with which these mighty works of old were reared. The approach is magnificent, and, as at Tarragona, a superb flight of 86 steps, raised in 1607 by Bishop Zuazo, leads up to the façade, which is in the GræcoRomano style, rising in tiers, order above order, and terminated with an oval rose-window: from the square belfry the panorama is beautiful. Before entering, look at the Puerta de los Apostoles and the terra-cotta statues of 1458. The interior, with its semicircular absis, is simple and grandiose. The Silleria del Coro is of the early part of the 16th century: observe the epis U |