Paul; the interior is whitewashed; | conveyance, may ride across the sandy observe, however, the fine marbles in coast, provided they can face insects, the pulpits and altars, especially one and fleas especially. in the chapel of La Virgen del Carmen. The painted and gilt medallions are in good cinque-cento taste. Santiago is said to have disembarked here A.D. 37, whereat the Gallicians and Arragonese, each of whom swears that the apostle first disembarked in their country, are much vexed: and, as he never came to Spain at all, who shall decide? The inhabitants of Almeria are subject to eye-complaints. About 2 L. in the Sierra are the much-frequented baths of Alhamilla; there are two seasons,-from May 1 to June 30, and from Sept. 1 to the end of October. The site is delicious, and the views charming; so much for nature. The bathing and social accommodations very bad; so much for the natives. The commerce of the province of Almeria consists principally in the produce of the lead-mines, and the esparto and barrilla, of which quantities grow on the plains. The arbol de tinte, a sort of acacia, from which a dye is made, flourishes here. The geologist will, of course, visit El Cabo de Gata, the "Cape Agate," distant 15 m. S.E. This is the ancient Promontorium Charidemi, a word derived by Bochart (Can. i. 34) from the Punic char-adem, caput sardii, the sardonyx, Arabicè Kheyran. It is a rock formed of crystals, spars, and agates, of 8 L. by 5 L. in extent. Visit the cavern in the Montaña del Bujo, where amethysts are found. The evidences of volcanic disturbance are very clear: the conical Moron de los Genoveses, some 300 feet high, has clearly been thrown up; many similar cerros exist. The Vela blanca is a white spot, a landmark to travellers on this windy cape, since, according to the nautical adage, "At Cape de Gat, take care of your hat." Other knobs have a religious nomenclature common in Spain, such "El Sacristan" and "Los dos Frailes," equivalent to our parson and clerk," "devil's peaks," &c. Those going to Cartagena, who dislike steam This route is very uninteresting, and the accommodation wretched. The coast continues studded with watchtower atalayas, and the plains produce esparto and soda-plants. The route runs inland to Tabernas, leaving Cabo de Gata to the rt.; it comes out on the sea near Mojacar, Murgis acra, the promontory on its spur of the Sierra de Cabrera, with its ruined castle and pretty glorieta walk. Hence to Vera. Barea-the "end" of the Tarraconese division-is a seaport from whence are exported the corn, barrilla, esparto, &c., of the rich environs. The climate is delicious; hic ver perpetuum: pop. above 8000. Hence cross over the Almanzora, the "river of victory," often with no water in it, by the Cortijo de Pulpi to el Puerto de las Aguilas, a small place so called from a rock at the entrance of the nicely protected harbour, which resembles the head and beak of an eagle. The town consists of two intersecting streets, which nestle at the foot of a rock and castle, destined in 1766 by Charles III. as the port of the country up to Murcia. A carriageable road communicates hence to Lorca, 5 L.: the character of the country is calcined and barren, save the Esparto and Palmito weeds. Almazarron is an industrious place: pop. some 5000. The land and sea afford occupation. From the number of ruins discovered in the vicinity, this is supposed to have been the site of an important Carthaginian settlement. In the Sierra of Almazarron silver ores occur, while from the hill San Cristobal alum is extracted, and the red earth, almagra, which is used for rubbing Merino sheep, polishing mirrors, and mixed with the red rappee snuff of Seville. The friable rock is first roasted, and then slaked. When the alum is deposited in solution, the residue after evaporation is the almagra, which, according to Captain Widdrington, is a silicate of iron, according to others From Almeria there is a cross but carriageable road to Guadix 15 L., through Rioja, Ocaña, and Finaña. ROUTE 30.-ALMERIA TO JAEN. Almeria Baza Segura 4 2 7 4 5 3 3 5 1 3 4 3 an oxide. Much barrilla is made here, | appeared that germ of mining and and burnt with the shrubs of these gambling madness with which Spain timberless plains. Crossing the Al- and the whole modern world seem manzora to the 1., 1 L., is the silver- infected. The original discoverer died a pregnant Sierra de Almagrera. The pauper, without even a room in a poor mines were discovered by a poor weaver or an alms-house, while the Carthagiwho, under the pretence of shooting, nians erected a temple to the San passed his days here, until near a Aletes, by whom these identical ores ridge or dip called el Barranco Ja- were first found (Polyb. x. 10). roso he found specimens; these he carried to Granada and Cordova to be assayed, when they proved to be galena or argentiferous lead: being utterly without money, he at last confided his secret to Don Miguel Soler, proprietor of the land, and the real discoverer according to Madoz, to whose account and details the traveller is referred, as also to the excellent work on La Industria Minera by Ezquerra del Bayo. Soler formed a club of 12 friends, who making a purse of about 1007., proceeded to obtain a legal grant of the site, and employed a competent engineer: on the 21st of April, 1839, a rich lode was discovered about 50 feet below the earth. This bonanza or godsend was called La Carmen, in honour of the Virgin, as sole dispenser of the bounties of heaven. The shares soon rose from 150 dollars to 60,000. Indeed, 1800 arrobas of ore, of 25 lbs. each, were raised per day, even with the rudest machinery. This sudden acquisition of wealth attracted thousands of competitors to "the diggings," and what a few years ago was a wild and dreary waste is now studded with buildings, traced into roads, crowded with labourers and smeltingfurnaces. To complete the works, a draining company has been formed for the purpose of opening an adit, now nearly completed. The outlet is on a level with the sea, and the line will communicate with that part of the Sierra which contains the principal mass of ore, a distance estimated at 2200 yards. These mines were certainly worked by the ancients, but long remained among the many treasures buried in the Spanish nation, until rediscovered by sheer accident: here first This circuit, interesting to the naturalist, runs through an almost terra incognita. The leagues are long and uncertain, the communications and accommodations rough in the extreme. It is, however, a voyage of discovery well deserving to be undertaken, and on which further information is much requested for this Handbook. Macael, poorly built amid the finest materials, lies under the Sierra de Filabres, whence the view over the country is singular, as it resembles a stormy sea Macael is one suddenly petrified. block of white marble, whence were extracted the thousands of pillars which the Moors raised in the patios of Seville and Granada; now, in the pining atrophy and marasmus, they are scarcely worked. Purchena is historically interesting, as being the town to which Boabdil retired, it having been assigned to him as his petty estate, and part of his alcazar still remains. For Baza, see p. 343. Thence a bold loyer of natural history may strike to the Pozo del Alcon, where the pine forests commence. Hence to Cazorla, which forms one point of a triangle with Puebla de Don Fabrique, distant 15 L. The roads are iniquitous in these tangled groves of fine oaks and pines. At Orcera was the governmental establishment of woods and forests, whence the arsenals of Cadiz were supplied, but the noble buildings were all burnt by the French. The forest of Segura, Saltus Tigiensis, extends about 80 L. by 60. The visitor should apply to the resident authorities for permission to explore the localities, stating frankly his objects; otherwise his arrival will create an infinite hubbub, and he will be exposed to every sort of suspicion and inconvenience. The Guadiana, which flows into the Guadalquivir, is useful for floating down timber. The forest is sadly neglected and ill-used; game of all kinds abounds, and wolves are so numerous that sheep can scarcely be kept. Passing through a fertile wellwatered country is Ubeda, built on an olive-clad slope by the Moors, with the materials of the Roman Bætula, now Ubeda la Vieja. Ubeda was taken by Alonso VIII. eight days after the victory of Las Navas de Tolosa. The Spaniard, writing to Innocent III., stated that it "then contained 70,000 Moors, of whom many were put to death, and the rest made slaves to build convents in Spain, and the city razed to the ground." When these Christian destroyers retired, the Infidels rebuilt Ubeda. But the ill-fated town was again taken by St. Ferdinand on Michaelmas-day, 1239. Hence the city arms-gules, that Archangel, with an orle, argent, of twelve lions, gules. Ubeda contains about 15,000 inhabitants, principally agriculturists. Here are excellent specimens of Pedro de Valdelvira, an architect of the sixteenth century, and second only to Berruguete. The cathedral, once the mosque, has been built into a Corinthian temple, in a style similar to those of Jaen and Granada. Near the high altar was buried Don Bel tran de la Cueva, the reputed father of La Beltraneja, the rival to Isabella the Catholic. The Mecenas of Ubeda was Francisco de los Cobos, secretary to Charles V. He brought from Italy Julio and Alessandro, pupils of Jean de Udina, to decorate his house with arabesques. The mansion, cruelly degraded, still exists in the parish Santo Tomas. He also employed Pedro de Valdelvira, in 1540, to build the beautiful San Salvador. The stone is of a bad colour, and the interior has been overgilt and altered. Observe the Portal del Llano, and the entrance and inside of the rich sacristia: walk by the pretty delicias to the Cadenas, or convent of Dominican nuns, built in 1566 by Vasquez de Molina, sec. to Philip II.; the façade is by Valdelvira; the hospital is a fine building: observe the tower, the cloister, and the minute bassi-relievi on the retablo. The funds have long been misapplied, and the mismanagement is complete. Visit the Lonja, and the buildings in the Exido-the "Exodus," or place of departure for Baeza, distant 1 L. There is a profusion of water, and fertility is everywhere the consequence; indeed, the whole of the Lomas de Ubeda is some of the finest land in the world. Under the Moors it was densely peopled, and a granary; now much is despoblado and neglected, and the people dull and backward; indeed, since the days of Don Quixote (ii. 33), ir por los cerros de Ubeda is equivalent to going out of your way or talking nonsense, and the roads are some of the very worst in Spain. Baeza-Beatia Bæcula-is the spot where Scipio the younger routed Asdrubal (U. c. 545), killing 8000 Carthaginians, and taking 10,000 Spaniards prisoners (Livy, xxvii. 18). Under the Moors it became a flourishing town of 30,000 souls. It was taken and sacked by St. Ferdinand in 1239, and has never become again what it once was. The miserable Moors took refuge in the Albaicin of Granada. Baeza is a handsome town, with old walls and towers, of which the Aliatares is the finest. Pop. about 4000. There is a good new posada in what was the Franciscan convent. The noble buildings of the sixteenth century, and now deserted halls, bear record of former importance. The position, on a lofty loma, with pure air, rich plains, and abundance of water, is well chosen. All this rich district fell in 1810 at once into Soult's grasp from the misconduct of the Spaniards under Castejon. The principal edifices are the oratorio of San Felipe Neri, the grand patio and staircase of the university, the fountain with caryatides in the Plaza, and the cinque-cento gates of Cordova and Baeza. The cathedral is joined with that of Jaen, under the same mitre. It was modernised in 1587, and dedicated to the "birth of the Virgin." This mystery is represented in a basso-relievo by Jeronimo Prado, over the classical portal. The chapel of San José is in excellent plateresque. It was for this cathedral that Francisco Merino, one of the best silverworkers of Spain (obiit 1594), made a magnificent custodia. But the pride of Baeza was the being the birthplace of the 11,000 virgins commonly called of Cologne, but who were Spanish, according to Vilches, in his 'Santuarios,' i. 28, 26. These ladies, really born in Cornwall about the year 453, were daughters of one Nothus, a great lord, and the Bastards are still among the best born in the West of England. Some sceptical critics contend that the eleven thousand were in reality only twins, and by name Ursula and Undecimilla; others assert that the mistake arose from the abbreviations of an old manuscript, | "Ursula et XI. M. V.," meaning simply, Ursula and eleven martyr virgins. At the same time, there must have been many thousands of them, more perhaps than at present, since there is scarcely a relicario in Spain which cannot boast a virgin, or two of them, while the numbers in Germany and Italy are still more astounding. The celebrated sculptor, Gaspar Becerra, was born at Baeza in 1520. Spain.-I. Linares-Hellanes-is placed in a pleasant plain under the Sierra Morena, with an abundance of fertilising streams: population under 7000. It was celebrated in antiquity for its mines of copper and lead, which are still very productive, especially those of Los Arrayanes, Alamillos, and La Cruz. Every day new shafts are being opened; but, as at Berja, the working is very prejudicial to the miner's health. About half a L. distant is the supposed site of Castulo or Cazlona, where mutilated sculpture is frequently found and neglected. At Palazuelos are the presumed ruins of the "palace" of Himilce, the rich wife of Hannibal, and near is the site of the great battle won by Scipio (Livy, xxiv. 41). The fine fountain of Linares is supposed to be a remnant of the Roman work which was connected with Castulo. N. of Linares, and about 5 miles from Carolina, in the Cerro de Valdeinfierno, are certain ancient mines, which still are called Los Pozos de Anibal. The geologist may strike on to Vilches, a small place with 2000 souls, placed in the midst of neglected mines of copper and silver. The wild shooting in all this district of Las Nuevas Poblaciones is good, so also is the fishing in the Guadalen, Guarrizaz, and Guadalimar. The two towns of Baeza and Linares, only 3 L. apart, as is common in unamalgamating Spain, do not love their neighbour. Baeza quiere pares, y no quiere Linares. The traveller may either strike up to Bailen, 2 L., or return to Granada by Jaen-2 L. to the Venta de Don Juan, and 1 L. to the bridge over the Guadalquivir at Mengibar, and thence 4 most dreary L. to Jaen. See Index for details. The communications from Granada will be found in the preceding pages : to Jaen, Rte. 16; to Cordova, Rte. 14; to Seville, by Osuna, Rte. 13; to Ronda, by Antequera, Rte. 21; to Malaga, by Alhama, Rte. 25; or by Loja, Rte. 13. There now remains the Route to Murcia and the Eastern provinces. THE petty Reino de Murcia contains about 660 square L. It is of an irregular shape, about 25 L. long by 23 broad, and is bounded to the E. by Valencia, to the N. by Cuenca and La Mancha, to the W. by Granada, and to the S. by the Mediterranean. It is thinly peopled and very dry: drought, indeed, is the local curse: and frequently for many months in succession not one drop of rain falls on the parched, riverless portions. Man and nature are withered up; dust returns to dust, and all becomes a desert. The artificial remedies, the Presas and Pantanos, and methods of irrigation introduced by the intelligent, industrious Moors are well worth notice. (Consult the Memoria, by Rafael de Miranda, 8vo. 1836.) Where they exist under this ardent sun, the well-watered portions and Huertas compensate by their prodigious fertility, producing the palm, orange, and carob tree, silk, soda, bass-grass, red peppers, and wines. The mineralogy is most interesting, especially in the mining districts near Cartagena. The best line of route is that which comprehends Lorca, Murcia, Cartagena, Elche, and Alicante. The springs and autumns are the fittest seasons for travelling; the former are all flower, the latter all fruit. Murcia was the cherished province of the Carthaginians, and was destined by them to replace their loss of Sicily, as it contained those mines which enabled the family of Hannibal to war against Rome itself. The Goths of Murcia made honourable resistance against the Moors, and their leader, Theodimir-Tadmir Ben Gobdos-was allowed to retain an independent sovereignty during his life; hence the province was called Belad Tadmir, a word often confounded with Tadmor, a country of palms, which do indeed flourish here. Under the Moors Mursiah became one continuous "garden," and hence was called El Bastan, and sometimes Misr, Egypt, to which it was compared. When the Kalifate of the Ummeyahs was broken up, Mursiah split off into an independent state under the Beni-Tahir family, which ruled from 1038 to 1091; after this, internal dissensions led to the triumph of the Spaniards. The Moorish Murcians were reputed to be ob |