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AWAY up north-in high latitudes, among years later.

ice-lands and icebergs-Lord Dufferin, an English nobleman, gives us a pleasant series of letters, full of incident, the results of an adventurous expedition during last summer, in his schooner-yacht Foam.

The Foam started from Stornoway in the Hebrides. One morning as the "look-out" was watching for expected land, there suddenly shot up toward the zenith a pale gold aureole; then, gradually lifting its huge back above the water, rose a silver pyramid of snow, the cone of an ice-mountain miles away in the interior of Iceland. This mountain was the southeast extremity of the island, the very landfall made by one of its first discoverers in the year of grace 864. That adventurous pioneer, not having a compass nor knowing exactly where the land lay, took on board with him at starting three consecrated ravens. Having sailed a certain distance he let loose one, which flew back; and by this he judged he had not got half-way. Proceeding onward he loosed the second, which, after circling in the air in apparent uncertainty, also made off home, as though it still remained a nice point which were the shorter course toward terra firma. But the third, on obtaining his liberty a few days later, flew forward, and by following the direction in which he had disappeared, Rabna Floki-or Floki of the Ravens, as he came to be called-triumphantly made the land.

A Scandinavian king named Harold Haarfager (a contemporary of the English Alfred), having murdered, burned, and otherwise exterminated all his brother-kings-who at that time grew as thick as blackberries in Norwayfirst consolidated their dominions into one realm, as Edgar did the Heptarchy, and then proceeded to invade the udal rights of the landholders. Some of them, animated with that love of liberty innate in the race of the noble Northmen, rather than submit to oppression, determined to look for a new home amidst the desolate regions of the icy sea. Freighting a dragon-shaped galley-the Mayflower of the period-with their wives and children, and all the household monuments that were dear to them, they saw the blue peaks of their dear Norway hills sink down into the sea behind, and manfully set their faces toward the west, where-some vague report had whispered-a new land might be found. Arrived in sight of Iceland, the leader of the expedition threw the sacred pillars belonging to his former dwelling into the water, in order that the gods might determine the site of his new home. Carried by the tide, no one could say in what direction, they were at last discovered, at the end of three years, in a sheltered bay on the west side of the island, and Ingolf came and abode there, and the place became in the course of years, and still is, Reykjavik, the capital of the country.

The panorama of the bay of Faxa Fiord, at the extremity of which Reykjavik is situated, is magnificent. The bay has a width of fifty miles from horn to horn, the one running down into a rocky ridge of pumice, the other towering to the height of five thousand feet in a pyramid of eternal snow; while round the intervening semicircle crowd the peaks of a hundred noble mountains. As you approach the shore you are very much reminded of the west coast of Scotland, except that every thing is more intense, the atmosphere clearer, the light more vivid, the air more bracing, the hills steeper, loftier, more tormented, as the French say, and more gaunt; while between their base and the sea stretches a dirty greenish slope, patched with houses which are of a mouldy green, as if some long-since-inhabited country had been fished up out of the bottom of the sea. The town consists of a collection of wooden sheds, one story high-rising here and there into a gable-end of greater pretensions-built along the lava-beach, and flanked at either end by a suburb of turf huts. On every side of it extends a desolate plain of lava, that once must have boiled up red-hot from some distant gateway of hell, and fallen hissing into the sea. The good citizens of Reykjavik, and the Icelanders generally, are hospitable to a fault.

They are stanch Protestants, of the Lutheran persuasion. Crime, theft, debauchery, cruelty, are unknown among them; they have neither prison, gallows, soldiers, nor police; and in the manner of the lives they lead

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ICELANDIC TRAVELING COSTUME.

HAROLD HAARFAGER 8 БИПР.

among their secluded valleys there is something of a patriarchal simplicity refreshing to behold.

The great sight to be seen in Iceland is, of course, the hot springs, or Geysers, as they are called, in the interior of the country. The journey is performed on horseback, for, there being no roads, all the traffic is conducted by means of horses along the bridle-tracks which centuries of travel have worn in the lava plains. About thirty miles from Reykjavik, and between that town and the Geysers, the traveler comes abruptly upon a sight no less extraordinary than the boiling springs themselves. While moving on you are suddenly arrested in your career by a tremendous precipice, or rather chasm, which gapes beneath your feet, and completely sepa

rates the barren plateau you have been traversing from a lovely, gay, sunlit flat, ten miles broad, that lies-sunk at a level lower by a hundred feet-between you and the opposite mountains. This is the famous Almanna Gja. Like a black rampart in the distance, the corresponding chasm of Hrafna Gja is cut across the lower slope of the distant hills, and between them sleeps in beauty and sunshine the broad, verdant plain of Thingvalla. Ages ago who shall say how long?-some vast commotion shook the foundations of the island, and, bubbling up from sources far away amidst the inland hills, a fiery deluge must have rushed down between their ridges, until, escaping from the narrower gorges, it found space to spread itself into one broad sheet of molten stone over an entire district of country, reducing its va

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founders of the Icelandic Constitution chose for the meetings of their Thing or Congress. Armed guards defended the entrance, while the grave bonders deliberated within. To this day, at the upper end of the place of meeting, may be seen the three hummocks where sat in state the chiefs and judges of the land.

ried surface to one vast blackened level. One spot, erected by nature almost a fortress, the of two things then occurred: either, the vitrified mass contracting as it cooled, the centre area of fifty square miles burst asunder at either side from the adjoining plateau, and, sinking down to its present level, left the two parallel gjas, or chasms, which form its natural boundaries, to mark the limits of the disruption; or else, while the pith or marrow of the lava was still in a fluid state, its upper surface became solid, and formed a roof beneath which the molten stream flowed on to lower levels, leaving a vast cavern into which the upper crust subsequently plumped down.

But these grand old times have long since passed away. Along the banks of the Oxeraa no longer glisten the tents and booths of the assembled lieges; no longer stalwart berserks guard the narrow entrance to the Athling; ravens alone sit on the sacred Logberg; and the floor of the old Icelandic House of Representatives is ignominiously cropped by sheep. For three hundred years did the gallant little Republic maintain its independence-three hundred years of unequaled literary and political vigor. At last its day of doom drew near. Its chieftains intrigued against the liberties of the people, and in 1261 the island became an appanage of the Norwegian crown. Yet even then, the deed embodying the concession of their independence was drawn up in such haughty terms as to resemble rather the offer of an equal alli

Independently of its natural curiosities, Thingvalla is most interesting on account of its historical associations. Here, long ago, at a period when feudal despotism was the only government known throughout Europe, free parliaments used to sit in peace and regulate the affairs of the young Republic; and to this hour the precincts of its legislative halls are as distinct and unchanged as on the day when the high-hearted fathers of the emigration first consecrated them to the service of a free nation. By a freak of Nature, as the subsiding plain cracked and shivered into twenty thousand fis-ance than the renunciation of sovereign rights. sures, an irregular oval area of about two hundred feet by fifty was left almost entirely surrounded by a crevice so deep and broad as to be utterly impassable; at one extremity alone a scanty causeway connected it with an adjoining level, and allowed of access to its interior. This

But relieved from the discipline and obligation of self-government, an apathy seized these once stirring islanders. On the amalgamation of the three Scandinavian monarchies, at the union of Calmar, the allegiance of the people of Iceland was passively transferred to the Danish

crown.

Ever since that time, Danish procon- | incredible distance. One boulder of pumice, six feet in circumference, was pitched twenty miles away. The surface of the earth was covered for a circuit of one hundred and fifty miles with a layer of sand four inches deep; the air was so darkened by it that, at a place one hundred and forty miles off, white paper held up at a little distance could not be distinguished from black. The fishermen could not put to sea on account of the darkness, and the inhabitants of the Orkney Islands were frightened out of their senses by showers of what they thought must be black snow. Then the lava began to overflow, and ran for five miles; and some days later-in order that no element might be wanting to mingle in this devil's charivari-a vast column of water split up through the cinder pillar to the height of several hundred feet; the horror of the spectacle being further enhanced by an accompaniment of subterranean cannonading and dire reports, heard at a distance of fifty miles.

suls have administered their government, and Danish restrictions have regulated their trade. The traditions of their ancient autonomy have become as unsubstantial and obsolete as those which record the vanished fame of their poets and historians and the exploits of their mariners. It is true, the adoption of the Lutheran religion galvanized for a moment into the semblance of activity the old literary spirit. A printing press was introduced as early as 1530, and ever since the sixteenth century many works of merit have 'been produced from time to time by Icelandic genius. Shakspeare, Milton, and Pope have been translated into the native tongue, and the colleges of Copenhagen are adorned by many an illustrious Icelandic scholar. But the glory of the old days is departed, and it is across a wide desolate flat of ignoble annals, as dull and arid as their own lava plains, that the student has to look back upon the glorious drama of Iceland's early history.

Onward to the Geysers. Those three snowy peaks which shine in the far distance, cold and clear against the sky, belong to Mount Hecla. The frequent and destructive eruptions of this volcano between the years 1004 and 1766 are too well known to need any recital here. Some reference, however, may be made to the one of 1766, which was remarkably, violent. It commenced by the appearance of a huge pillar of black sand, mounting slowly to the heavens, and accompanied by subterranean thunders. Then a coronet of flame encircled the crater, masses of red rock, pumice, and magnetic stones were flung out with tremendous violence, and to an

But alarming as this eruption was, it is tame compared with that of another volcano, called Skapta Jokul, in the year 1783. From this mountain a gigantic river of lava issued, pouring into a great lake, and completely filling up its basin. There, separating into two streams, the unexhausted torrent again commenced its march. One of these streams is considered to be about fifty miles in length by twelve or fifteen at its greatest breadth; the other is forty miles in length by seven in depth, and where it was imprisoned between high hills the lava is five or six hundred feet thick! For a whole year a canopy of cinder-laden clouds hung over the island; and according to the most accurate cal

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culations, 9000 men and over 200,000 cattle died from the effects of this one eruption.

Arrived at the famous Geysers, the traveler first notices the appearance of the place. The ground looks as though it had been honeycombed by disease into numerous sores and orifices; not a blade of grass grows on its hot, inflamed surface, which consists of unwholesome-looking, red, livid clay, or crumpled shreds of slough-like incrustations. The Great Geyser has a smooth silicious basin seventy-two feet in diameter and four feet deep, with a hole at the bottom, as in a washing-basin on board a steamer. This is brimful of water just upon the simmer, while a great column of vapor rises high into the air. To see this formidable monster in eruption the traveler may have to wait many days. The event is announced by subterranean thunders. A violent agitation disturbs the centre of the boiling pool. Suddenly, a dome of water lifts itself up, then bursts and falls. Immediately after, a shining liquid column, or rather a sheaf of columns wreathed in robes of vapor, spring into the air, and in a succession of jerking leaps, each higher than the last, fling their silver crests against the sky. The duration of this phenomenon is, of course, in proportion to the violence of the eruption. As you watch, you notice that it gradually loses its ascending energy; the unstable waters falter, droop, fall, "like a broken purpose," back upon themselves, and are immediately sucked down into the recesses of their pipe.

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to extremities-with my shoes and stockings. At this most critical part of the proceedings I naturally imagined her share of the performance would conclude, and that I should at last be restored to that privacy which at such seasons is generally considered appropriate. Not a bit of it. Before I knew where I was, I found myself sitting on a chair, in my shirt, trowser

neatly folding up the ravished garments on a neighboring chair. She then, in the most simple manner in the world, helped me into bed, tucked me up, and having said a quantity of pretty things in Icelandic, gave me a hearty kiss and departed. If," added the Doctor, as he told his story to his companions on the following morning-"if you see any thing remarkable in my appearance, it is probably because

While encamped in this locality, waiting to see an eruption of the Great Geyser, the Doctor of Lord Dufferin's party met with an adven-less, while my fair tire-woman was engaged in ture which gives us an insight into some of the very peculiar customs of the Icelanders. The Doctor, in one of his rambles, stumbled upon a human habitation, and counting justly on the hospitality of its inmates, at once sought admittance. "No sooner," says Esculapius, "had I presented myself at the door than I was immediately welcomed by the whole family, and triumphantly inducted into the guest quarters; every thing the house could produce was set before me, and the whole society stood by to see that I enjoyed myself. As I had but just dined, an additional repast was no longer necessary to my happiness; but all explanation was useless, and I did my best to give them satisfaction. Immediately on rising from the table, the young lady of the house proposed by signs to conduct me to my apartment. Taking in one hand a large plate of skier, and in the other a bottle of brandy, she led the way through a passage, built of turf and stones, to the place where I was to sleep. Having watched her deposit-not without misgivings, for I knew it was expected both should be disposed of before morning-the skier by my bedside, and the brandy bottle under my pillow, I was preparing to make her a polite bow, and to wish her a very good-night, when she advanced toward me, and with a winning grace difficult to resist insisted upon helping me off with my coat, and then-proceeding

This very morn I've felt the sweet surprise Of unexpected lips on sealed eyes →→ But we now leave the Geysers. Back again to Reykjavik; out once more upon the sea, and sailing north in search of the mysterious Jan Mayen-that wonderful island-mountain of igneous rock, shooting straight up out of the ocean to the height of 6870 feet, not broadbased like a pyramid, nor round-topped like a sugar loaf, but needle-shaped, pointed like the spire of a church.

Found at last, but with much difficulty. One morning the dense fog that hung over the water suddenly split asunder, and through the gapthousands of feet overhead, as if suspended in the crystal sky-the navigators beheld a cone of illuminated snow. It was the summit of the Beerenberg of Jan Mayen. After a few moments the roof of mist closed again and shut out all trace of the transient vision. But patience until the curtain is lifted

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